knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
I use Bosh Distance in my Jeep Grand Cherokee Hemi and AMS oil filters on my Grand Prix GTP. In my Comanche I will probably use the Bosh Distance. I have been very happy with them.
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Pushrod length problem with pics
- Thread starter knever3
- Start date
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
the reason you should switch is more modern engines don't need the zinc content so most oils are changing their additive packages and putting less zinc in. if you don't want to change brands or use a more expensive oil just throw a bottle of STP oil treatment in with each oil change. cheap and easy.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
They must have a good ADBV to be good. You can't tell the difference by the way it runs. Did you mean Bosch? Amsoil?
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
I have used inferior filters over time and you can tell when the engine ticks when you start it up. Both the Bosh and the AMS oil filters seem to keep the oil right where it's needed. If an AMS dealer was closer by I would use them all the time, but since I have to go to Belle Tire to get them every time I change my oil and that they only carry a few in stock I only use them on my car since I don't change it as often. I guess I could order them online somewhere.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Wix and Napa Gold are excellent and available just about everywhere FWIW.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
what the hell is a bosh and ams?
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I asked the same thing in Post # 23. I THINK he means Bosch and Amsoil. Only guessing.
Root Moose
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ON, Canada
This. I run them on the Jeeps and the S2000 race car.
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
I finally got some time to check into my rocker arm issue tonight. I removed the valve cover and the rocker arm assemblies and inspected the valves, pushrods and such. I used a set of vise grips and another set of pliers and carefully pried each side of the bridge back into shape. I thought they were more fragile than that. They are actually pretty stout. After getting them back into shape I held the rocker with the vise grips so they wouldn't move or bend the bridge and torqued them to 21lb/ft. They were obviously over torqued the first time.
Here are the victory pictures,
And here is the engine I have been working on for quite some time. I got it assembled a week or two ago after a lot of detail work.
Thanks to all that chiped in with all your help!!!!
Here are the victory pictures,
And here is the engine I have been working on for quite some time. I got it assembled a week or two ago after a lot of detail work.
Thanks to all that chiped in with all your help!!!!
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
That looks way better!!
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
I got the motor running but the lifter noise is VERY loud. I tightened the rockers just like you are supposed to but with the pictures of the previous owner it looks like the problem goes deeper now. The noise is almost as loud as the exhaust. What could be the problem? Wrong size pushrods or bad lifters? Wiped cam? It runs good so far with a couple of idle issues.
Any suggestions before I upload a video? I really don't want to tear down the head but I will do what it takes. I get 50psi cold oil pressure and 20psi warm/hot.
Any suggestions before I upload a video? I really don't want to tear down the head but I will do what it takes. I get 50psi cold oil pressure and 20psi warm/hot.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
It could be any of those issues. Did you check preload?
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
Ok, call me a novice on this one. I didn't check preload because I thought these rockers were like the 3.4L engines. Tighten the nut to specified torque and forget it. Please explain.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Being that it is a modified engine push rod length may need to change. Cam base circle size, deck height changes, valve changes, lifter changes, etc can effect preload and correct pushrod length.
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
An update...
I decided to take the truck to a good mechanic and machine shop to measure the pushrods to see what was wrong. The initial thought of the shop owner said it sounds like valvetrain. For some reason the day before I took it over there I thought it sounded like a piston. I was hoping not.
The owner called me today and he said the pushrods were about .030 too long, to no suprise to me and that the same problem I had with the crooked rockers came back. He said he couldn't determine preload since he could not bolt anything on the head that would push the lifter down enough. He said this is NOT the problem though and he needed to go deeper, meaning removing the head etc. I guess I got myself into this problem by buying lightly used stroker. So how should I proceed? He said it would be foolish to do the work in the truck. I can go pick it up and pull the motor and have them tear it down to find the cause. Money wise it's killing me because I should know better. I can maybe do the work myself but I have NO measuring instruments except a keen eye.
What should I do? It would be great to get a number of some of you guru's out there so I can talk about this instead of posting and getting only a one sided conversation. Any of you out there that might be able to help me out? Thanks again!
Kevin
I decided to take the truck to a good mechanic and machine shop to measure the pushrods to see what was wrong. The initial thought of the shop owner said it sounds like valvetrain. For some reason the day before I took it over there I thought it sounded like a piston. I was hoping not.
The owner called me today and he said the pushrods were about .030 too long, to no suprise to me and that the same problem I had with the crooked rockers came back. He said he couldn't determine preload since he could not bolt anything on the head that would push the lifter down enough. He said this is NOT the problem though and he needed to go deeper, meaning removing the head etc. I guess I got myself into this problem by buying lightly used stroker. So how should I proceed? He said it would be foolish to do the work in the truck. I can go pick it up and pull the motor and have them tear it down to find the cause. Money wise it's killing me because I should know better. I can maybe do the work myself but I have NO measuring instruments except a keen eye.
What should I do? It would be great to get a number of some of you guru's out there so I can talk about this instead of posting and getting only a one sided conversation. Any of you out there that might be able to help me out? Thanks again!
Kevin
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Huh? He says they are too long but can't measure the preload? How did he determine they are too long? Besides that pushing the lifter down by bolting something to the head isn't how preload is measured.
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Second'd
It definetly sounds like the block and/or head has been substantially decked and the pushrods need to be swapped. Hopefully the cam hasn't been nuked in the process.
FWIW, Hesco stocks a bunch of different pushrod lengths. They are also great to talk to if you have technical questions about the 4.0L.
GL,
Bryson
knever3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midland Mi
Ok, sounds like they don't quite know what they are doing. So the question is who does that I can source? I know there are some great people out there but I don't know any of them in the Midland, MI area. I cannot relay preload info or measure the pushrod proper length on my own without any special tools to Hesco if I call them. I really need a knowlegable person to show me how with the right tools. Any help?
