Purolator has been bought out!!!

[K2XJ]

Was at the parts store today picking up a purolator pureone for my xj when the guy told me they no longer carry them cause they have been bought out!! 'Made in China' sh*t all over them. The parts guy said they have gone to absolute crap already.

Anyone else heard this...thought i would let everyone know cause i know purolator is pretty popular.

Time for wix i guess...i think wix is still a very good filter.

Just thought i would let you all know

K2XJ

 

[tealcherokee]

when wasnt purolator crap?

 

[5-90]

Wix or Baldwin - I'd not bother with anything else, unless I just can't find those two.

5-90

 

[asheets934]

I've had good experience with purolator, actually pureone. But I've never tried any wix products. I nearly bout a Wix air filter for my last replacment but ended up getting frustrated with the ignorant staff at a local ACDelco who told me that my wagoneer was not an XJ and that it was not available with MPI. She kept trying to make me take the filter for a carbed engine untill I finally walked out and went to the nearest auto parts store, pepboys unfortunatly, where I was able to select my own filter without some auto parts store flunkie trying to tell my what engine I had. Ended up with a pureone and I havent had any problems. Huge improvment over the POS fram the previous owner had in it . . .

Anyway, would a wix filter outperform mine, I'm always open to trying a new part to improve my waggy . . .

 

[marsajo]

I use the amsoil, nano fiber, heave duty filter. The thing is built like a tank and it filters great.

 

[lilredwagn]

I've been using the Purolator PureOne as well - for the past 30k miles or so. I have two new PL14670's in front of me that say "Made In USA" that I picked up two weeks ago. This thread tempts me to go out and buy another half dozen.

The PureOne got top ratings at bobistheoilguy.com a couple years back. Excellent construction, the best filtration, and the only possible downside was the flow was a little lower than competing models (which didn't filter as well). The tradeoff is worth the filtration, IMO, and the extra restriction just helps bump the oil pressure up (which sure doesn't hurt on the XJ)

I have read, but not reliably, that the Mobil1 oil filter is the same model. However the PureOne is (was?) $4 cheaper.

 

[lawsoncl]

The PureOne got top ratings at bobistheoilguy.com a couple years back.

I've read that site, but I take it with a grain of salt for a few reasons. First, the writeup is a few years old and as this thread demonstrates, the label may still be the same but you've no guarantee where/who is making them or that the internal construction is still the same. This also applies to different sizes within the smae brand name. You may have different maufacturers or internal construction for different sizes or even production runs through out the year. Still, it does let you make some general conclusions about quality.

Personally, I favor the Napa Wix brand and avoid Fram or anything else sold at Walmart.

 

[glfredrick]

You all might want to check out this site about filters -- who makes them -- and what they are made of on the inside.

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

[lawsoncl]

You all might want to check out this site about filters -- who makes them -- and what they are made of on the inside.

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

I did get a good laugh at the NTPOG reviews. Right on the front page he slams Bosch, but if you read all the reviews he keeps praising Mobil-1 as the gold standard. Then when you read the Bosch filter writeup he says it's comparable to the Mobil 1.

Even funnier is the warning when using oversized filters, that you need to make sure that the gasket is still the right size. Well Duh! I guess this is a Honda writeup and the morons putting fart cans on there do need to be told something most of use think obvious. So yeah, just because the threads are the same doesn't mean it will work.

I can summarize everything in one sentence. You generally get what you pay for. Don't skimp on the filter and you'll probably get something that works just fine.

 

[RyanM]

K&N+Royal Purple

 

[Thayer]

What does "bought out" mean? Are they sticking the Purolator name on completely different filters that are made in China? Did they move the Purolator production line to China, so it's the same filter coming off the same machinery, but in a different time zone?

 

[pressurerat]

I know I'll get a proper flaming for this one, but I buy the cheapest filters I can get. I don't care where they are made. I have never had an engine fail because of an oil, air, or fuel filter(or even know of anyone that did). The only time I have ever had a catastrophic engine failure in a 'street' vehicle was because of an over-pressurized nitrous bottle.......but that's another story! I have seen other cases at various race tracks, drag and roundy, where rod bolts, pushrods, crankshafts, u-joints, driveshafts, axles.....blah blah blah broke. 99% of those were stock factory components pushed way past their limits. None obviously caused by a filter.:explosion

 

[glfredrick]

I know I'll get a proper flaming for this one, but I buy the cheapest filters I can get. I don't care where they are made. I have never had an engine fail because of an oil, air, or fuel filter(or even know of anyone that did). The only time I have ever had a catastrophic engine failure in a 'street' vehicle was because of an over-pressurized nitrous bottle.......but that's another story! I have seen other cases at various race tracks, drag and roundy, where rod bolts, pushrods, crankshafts, u-joints, driveshafts, axles.....blah blah blah broke. 99% of those were stock factory components pushed way past their limits. None obviously caused by a filter.:explosion

Of course, you are 100% completely right -- as far as catastrophic engine failures are concerned.

AND

100% completely WRONG as far as internal engine wear is concerned! For every engine I run across with a rod out the side of the block, I see, what, 10,000 that are oil-burning, smoking, no power chunks of iron that deserve an early grave.

I'll stick the best stuff I can find inside my engines, thank you (I run Amsoil with either a Mobil 1, and Amsoil, or a Wix (Napa) filter.) I typically run my vehicles until they have 300,000 miles, then sell them to someone else, who runs them some more. Quite unlike the engines I've overhauled at less than 100,000 miles with spun rod bearings (a little old man with a Dodge Dakota that rarely left the garage, had oil changed faithfully every 2000 miles, and who SWORE by Pennzoil and Fram), or like the guy with the Toyota pickup that could only hit 45 on the freeway, or like the Honda Civic that had 90K and no rings at all, or, or, or (I could make quite a list!).

My machinest says that he can identify on site the engines that run the "cheap stuff" advocated above... He smiles every time he sees another Pennzoil or Fram commercial on television.

 

[pressurerat]

Of course, you are 100% completely right -- as far as catastrophic engine failures are concerned.

AND

100% completely WRONG as far as internal engine wear is concerned!

I see you are a man who deals in absolutes. I suppose my '89 Dakota that just turned 270,000 miles on the original engine is a fluke. It's always used cheap stuff. Execept the tranny, which always had Mopar fluid and filters. It's on tranny number two and is starting to slip again(and rear end number 3!). I am the second owner, my father in law was the original. Or my '87 Wagoneer XJ with 240,000. I am the third owner. I know the previous two. they used regular cheap ass oil and filters. Or my Mother's '92 Celica. She is the original owner. I have maintained that car since new with on sale oil and filters. It currently has a tick over 200,000 and does not use a drop of oil. I could go on and on. I'll tell you what wears engines worse than anything. Lack of use....sitting around! Low mileage originals. The oil breaks down just like gas and does more damage than anything I've seen. I have overhauled many engines in my day, and the lower mileage ones seem to have suffed worse. I have taken apart 200k plus mileage engines that you could almost eat off of the inside they were so clean. Some of these engines came out of beat up cars that looked like they had never been washed, let alone had synthetics and Wix filters and the lot. I'm not say that all the high dollar stuff is bad, I'm saying that the cheap stuff is not as bad as you might think. I have been a professional mechanic for about 15 years now and my opinions are base on my experiences in the field. And when did all the bad press on Fram filters and Penzoil come about? I guess the bad opinions come and go from product to product over the different generations. Hell....I can't afford Mobil One anyway! If I can get 250,000 plus miles on Fram and Penzoil, why should I spend all that extra money? There are always going to be engines with premature mechanical failures. Even, dare I say, ones that use synthetic oil from the factory! Do some research on the web on the GM generation III small block. That's why the manufacturers have powertrain warranties. You simply can't blame every failure on bad oil and filters, that is not logical. There are other factors at work. Casting imperfections, bad machine tolerences. Look at the Pontiac Fiero 4 cylinder. They had something like a 70% con rod failure rate due to a bad rod supplier. YMMV.

 

[gjxj]

I like how any time someone sees a POORLY MAINTAINED engine they place blame on whatever brand oil filter is on there.

 

[scoobyxj]

YMMV I had a 93 Plymouth Voyager mini van that had 260k on the ticker. Ran Frams, and various brands of oil in it the whole time I had it (from about 90k). Never had any probiblems, didn't smoke, didn't use, and only leaked about a half a quart every 3000. I do stay away form the super cheep brands though.

 

[75SV1]

I use Wix (NAPA Gold) filters and synthetic oils. I've used Castrol Syntech, Mobil 1 and now Pennzoil Platimun. I hear some about the cheaper oil and filters causing problems. Then I hear other say if they change thier oil at 2K with them, they don't have those problems. I guess it depends on how often you want/need to change your oil, type of driving and condition of the engine. I use to use Havoline and Valvoline for conventional oil. I hear Havoline and Motorcraft oils are very good. I have used Fram filters and the engine didn't explode. I have heard stories that the filters have colapsed on rare occasions. I will agree that technology changes over time. So what might have been junk or good years ago, can be the opposite now. Also, some stuff might be good, or work for the application, but for a buck or two more or maybe even less, there might be something better.
Tom

 

[fordtech]

FL-1A.




always had good luck with Motorcraft filters.

 

[anony91xj]

I like how any time someone sees a POORLY MAINTAINED engine they place blame on whatever brand oil filter is on there.

Exactly. Change your oil and filters every 3000 miles, keep up with tune-ups, other fluid changes, etc...and it doesn't matter if you use cheap oil or Mobil 1. The engine will run just as well either way, and you're pissing away money on Mobil 1 oil. And those $10 K&N and Mobil 1 filters...please, that's just obscene.

I always use cheap oil and filters as well, but change it every 3000 miles, never go over. My Grand Prix (I'm the second owner) has 211,000 miles on it, no problems with the original 3.8 V6. My old Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon had 165,000 miles on it, always used cheap stuff, never an engine problem. The Mustang only has 84,000 on the clock, but so far it's doing quite well. I've owned several other cars, but those are the only ones I know the complete history of.

As a professional technician, I have never seen an engine fail because of an oil filter alone or solely because it used "cheap" oil. The failures are almost always due to poor maintenance or bad design/defect on the manufacturer's part.

 

[85xjwoody]

I read something a while back about a few different filters and Baldwin one of the best in the testing. Since I have gone to Baldwin filters in my 2.5 carbed jeep and the wifes 97 Mercury Tracer both show better performance and pressure. With Fram I was always having low pressure problems.
I used a Fram filter and a Baldwin with both going 2000 miles. Cut both open and found that the Fram was in very poor condition inside and the Baldwin was in normal condition.
Oil was in better condition with the Baldwin than the Fram.

HTH.

Kim.