Pulling left - Still losing my mind.

[rockclimber]

pull both rear axleshafts. look down the tube. you will be able to see if it is bent or not just by looking.

 

[Ginger Vitis]

You could have a busted centering pin in your left rear leaf pack that is causing the axle to shift back and forth

 

[blistovmhz]

I hate shooting down most suggestions, but I've already thought of most of them. Leaf pins are good. Problem has survived 4 sets of leafs.
I may try pulling the rear shafts as rockclimber suggested (not today, but soon) and maybe try to borrow a known straight set of wheels/tires, as mine are definitely warped and bent all over (but again, problem started long before ****ing up my current wheels).

 

[Transpoquick]

? It's daily driven. Just built primarily for offroad use, but still street legal. I definitely don't agree that lunchboxes are prone to failure. The only failures I've seen thus far either were due to incorrect installation (ie: forgetting thrust washers when they're required), or... torque that would've broke a case locker anyway. Mine hold up to 300hp, 4.56 gears and 35's all day.



Somehow, my measurements for wheelbase were off. I think it's cause I probably welded one of the LCA mounts on in the wrong spot or something. I finally measured wheel to wheel today, which showed the passenger short 1/2". Confirmed by measuring tube to the only place on my Jeep that should be square, my CM and that also showed 1/2" short. Adjusted passenger out 1/2" and took it for a test drive. DIdn't feel fixed. Really didn't notice any change, but I also didn't get up to speed, so I'll report back tomorrow after a proper drive on the highway.

I did swap the rear wheel around and no change, but the LAST time I thought I'd fixed this, it was by swapping front to rear... I dunno. If the axle location didn't fix it, I'm goona assume it's a real tweaked frame (that I can't seem to prove) and just drive it and keep an eye out for an Eagle wagon shell to swap everything to I miss my eagle.

Sorry misunderstanding.
If you want to know if your axle housings are bent, level the axle and use a camber/caster gauge.
I would think the rear flanges are close to 90 degree, the carrier bearing races will have a non spherical pattern worn into them if its been a problem for awhile.
Before that though I would fix the problem w/ your long arm kit install.
I dd a samurai w/ 10 inches of lift and no sway bar until it rusted away around me(took about four years bwah)
Those tings are over rated.

 

[blistovmhz]

Yea. Already correctly located the front axle. No change. Today on the highway I realised steering is real twitchy, and then I remembered I don't have any reason to trust this steering box. Its either my old one that was sucking air, or it's my roomies, and he may have adjusted the gear lash too tight, which would explain the twitch. Will get that sorted tomorrow and try again.

 

[blistovmhz]

Well, I have no good way to measure camber accurately, but just looking at it, it looks like the driver is very near zero while the passenger is a couple degrees negative. The axle tube actually looks like it's bent DOWN on the passenger side, which should push the camber more positive, so I've no idea what I've done. Somehow bent the tube down while also bending the C up?
I've got a couple spare 30's laying around and may swap stuff over, but ultimately I think it's time for bigger axles. I've got a spare 44 housing (bent and separated passenger tube) that I could throw together, but I just can't decide if I should do a 44 or 60. Other than having to replace BJ's and Uni's every year or so, and twisting the shaft splines a little, the 30 is holding up in every other regard other than the bend (which I could've prevented if I'd trussed BEFORE I needed a truss ).
The 44 really only gives me a slightly stronger housing and bigger R&P. Shafts, BJ's, and joints are all the same, so it's not really an upgrade there, but I'm not REALLY having a problem with those anyhow.

I may just be holding my breath for a good deal on a 60. One locally for $1300. KP, high steer, comes with a shave kit (not done). Just needs outers and internals. Just really think the jump to a 60 is way overkill.

 

[yossarian19]

I would try to put a measurement of some kind on the caster before swapping the 30 out.
A short length of steel that fits across the wheel (not tire) and a mini square should be able to show you what you need to know.

 

[blistovmhz]

Yup. I did check both caster and camber. Caster is bang on where I want it. Camber may be a degree or less out on one side. At this point I've sorta got it in my head that it's silly to keep spending time and money on the 30 though. Planning tons or 609's now.
I'm still annoyed I haven't been able to solve this. It's gotta be a weird tweak in the frame.

 

[blistovmhz]

Welp, solved 95% of the pull. Centered the steering wheel. *sigh*.
Makes SOME sense that if the wheel is cranked to the left ever so slightly, that the magic steering box valve will be cracked, and sending fluid to the ram. The wheel and ram didn't move at all when on stands, but I guess maybe higher RPM combined with the road was enough.
Suspect the box may also have a few small internal leaks. I'm tempted to flip the ram over and see if it pulls right instead.
Either way, it's so close to perfect now that I can't be bothered to work on it any further. It's ****in' wheelin' time. The roomies 6.0L swap is JUST about finished. Fired it up last night to test the trans and make sure there was some fluid in the TC. Threw it in gear, gave it a rock forward and back, and then did burnouts in the driveway on 38.5x15's for 10 minutes. Can only be described as effortless. Should be back on the road tomorrow and on the trail Sunday.

Also, I bought a first gen 4 runner frame/body last night and somehow came away like a bandit (totally unrelated but I think worth sharing).
My buddy has a big runner and has been hounding me to build one as well. I've always sorta thought about it because the XJ is really as far as it's ever going to go without adding tonnes (for unsprung mass to add side hilling stability), and the runner is just inherently more stable due to lower COG of the frame design. So my buddy found an awesome deal on a part out, had his friend buy the axles (with 5.29's, chromoly, and ARB's) for cheap, so that he can trade his 4.88's straight over to his buddy for the 5.29's and ARBs (I have no idea how he swung that). But the seller I guess figured he did good enough on the axles that he just wanted the rest gone. Perfect running 22re and whatever strange trans/case is behind it, first gen SFA frame (very rare), in perfect condition (this never happens). I agreed to buy the frame for $250 (steal) and asked if I could just keep the body which would save him from scrapping it, so I have something to use as a mockup for the V8 placement. He said sure. Then a few days later he asks if I want to just take the entire truck, motor and all, for $500. The motor is worth $500 and I have a buyer lined up already. The trans usually sells for another $250. So now I'm getting an SFA frame with a mockup body, and a spare canopy, and all the little junk, for -$250. That's right. Getting paid $250 to take the truck away, AND HE'S DELIVERING IT TO MY DOOR FROM 90 MINUTES AWAY!
So, getting paid to take a truck is one thing. But now the guy who bought the axles needs someone to install his SFA swap kit (half day job, and I need to practice anyway). Was quoted $1200 by his buddy. I told him he can just leave the axles at my place and bring his truck over and I'll do the install for $750. So really, I'm making $1000 and getting a mint condition frame and a decent body/interior. Yes, I know this isn't really the place to get excited about a yota, but goddamn. I feel like a bandit for the deal, and like a wayward husband to my Jeep .

 

[yossarian19]

There's a place for monogamous love.
It's just not the car hobby.
Nice score on the yota & day's work! Hell of a horse trade.

 

[blistovmhz]

Ha! Yup.
Got the yota last night. PO said he thought the alt was toast, but I'm pretty sure it was just a bad battery connection. Fired right up this morning and did some 22re burnouts. Entire driveline seems minty.

Unfortunately, the guy who bought the axles I think is hoping to get a screamin' deal on the motor/trans. We'll see. I think I'll tell him I'll do the SAS swap and give him the motor for around a grand. No where near what the motor and labour is worth, but either way I'm coming out way ahead on the deal, and he's keeping an eye out for a clean body for me. Body is pretty thoroughly thrashed. Frame is mint. I've never seen a first gen frame in this good condition.

 

[yossarian19]

Go full redneck.
Put an XJ body on it.