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Pulling a 96 Motor?

Probably the same as a small block chevy.


•2.8L V6, 365 lbs.
•2.5L I4, 340 lbs.
•4.0L I6, 515 lbs.

•Chevy 4.3L V6, 425 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen. I & II), 550 lbs.
 
I like to pull it as a complete package but that's up to you.

I would recommend pulling the fuel rail off the intake manifold and tying it to the brake booster rather than undoing the quick connects. Every time I mess with the quick connects I regret it, the parts stores around here don't have the right O-ring and clip assortments to make them stop leaking. They do have fuel injector O-rings, for like 2 dollars for 12. Easy choice.

Also, pull the power steering pump off the engine and drop it where the air filter housing came out without disconnecting any lines, save yourself having to bleed the PS system again.

If the serpentine belt tensioner bolt won't turn freely, sneak a propane torch down under the intake manifold and roast the "knuckle" the pulley bolt and tensioner bolt go through for a few seconds. Try to avoid heating the tensioner bolt, just the knuckle is best. It should turn loose with some persuasion. Try not to break that bolt, it's a dealer only one, what idiot decided an 8mm bolt should be that long and exposed to the elements past where it threads in?

I like to run a tap (preferably bottoming, but whatever's on hand) through all the motor mount bosses until they bottom out, then brakleen flush the cutting oil out and loctite in the bolts. Keeps rust out and everything threads in so much nicer when the threads have been chased all the way to the bottom.
 
I like to pull it as a complete package but that's up to you.

I would recommend pulling the fuel rail off the intake manifold and tying it to the brake booster rather than undoing the quick connects. Every time I mess with the quick connects I regret it, the parts stores around here don't have the right O-ring and clip assortments to make them stop leaking. They do have fuel injector O-rings, for like 2 dollars for 12. Easy choice.

Also, pull the power steering pump off the engine and drop it where the air filter housing came out without disconnecting any lines, save yourself having to bleed the PS system again.

If the serpentine belt tensioner bolt won't turn freely, sneak a propane torch down under the intake manifold and roast the "knuckle" the pulley bolt and tensioner bolt go through for a few seconds. Try to avoid heating the tensioner bolt, just the knuckle is best. It should turn loose with some persuasion. Try not to break that bolt, it's a dealer only one, what idiot decided an 8mm bolt should be that long and exposed to the elements past where it threads in?

I like to run a tap (preferably bottoming, but whatever's on hand) through all the motor mount bosses until they bottom out, then brakleen flush the cutting oil out and loctite in the bolts. Keeps rust out and everything threads in so much nicer when the threads have been chased all the way to the bottom.

Thanx for the tips, I've got a pretty good selection of "O" rings handy, not many I don't have. But finding that little tool to disconnect, the not so quick, fuel line disconnect is something I'll have to do (it is in the garage someplace). I may take off the whole intake and exhaust before I pull, I have to replace the exhaust manifold anyway, when the motor settled it pretty much trashed what was left of it, it was cracked anyway, now it is in pieces.

My tensioner bolt is good to go, I'm really liberal with grease and oil on parts like that. Grease doesn't bother me, rust and seizing does. I'll throw a good tip back at you, a good sized finger full of lithium grease on all the brake line fittings once a year, sure makes life easier when you have to replace a brake line. If I do one thing well it is to lubricate most everything on a regular basis.

I may have a blind tap in that size, I for sure have a normal tap and can clean them out some anyway. Good idea thanx. I've got a pretty good selection of SAE bolts, hopefully I've got what I need, though I'll likely have to shorten some to make them fit.

I did get a little lucky, I had a new radiator sitting in the garage waiting to go in anyway, the old one has a tiny leak and is now trashed, it doesn't leak any worse but almost got rubbed through by the fan clutch. I also noticed the fan clutch is now leaking. The list is getting longer.
 
What I'm saying is that you don't even have to mess with the not so quick disconnects - just pull the rail out of the manifold and leave it connected to the fuel supply lines, then tie/set it aside. I forget what material the fuel injector O-rings are, but obviously it's heat and fuel proof. The right ones (Standard Motor Products part number SK9) is a pack of 12 and so incredibly cheap ($4) that it barely makes sense not to use them.

edit: Make sure to use grade 8 hardware on the motor mount, preferably flange head. They are 3/8-16 1" long (not including head.) Torque spec is 45 foot pounds.
 
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What I'm saying is that you don't even have to mess with the not so quick disconnects - just pull the rail out of the manifold and leave it connected to the fuel supply lines, then tie/set it aside. I forget what material the fuel injector O-rings are, but obviously it's heat and fuel proof. The right ones (Standard Motor Products part number SK9) is a pack of 12 and so incredibly cheap ($4) that it barely makes sense not to use them.

edit: Make sure to use grade 8 hardware on the motor mount, preferably flange head. They are 3/8-16 1" long (not including head.) Torque spec is 45 foot pounds.

I just added injector "O" rings to the list (page two). Bad thing about living here, Jeeps is an exotic and some of the parts are hard to come by. My parts supplier does have a good selection of gaskets though, I've never needed one he didn't have, but that fuel line "O" ring would likely be stretching his capabilities some. The Jeep dealer is a pain, the parts guy a plick, walk ins get service when he feels like it. I do get even with him though, I send my wife after the parts, she can turn any simple request into a two hour dialog. :) I actually feel sorry for the Jeep parts guy sometimes.
 
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