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Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L

I got a great suggestion from another board I'm on.

I'm looking at an aftermarket coolant overflow / reservoir bottle that is smaller and round to allow more room for everything else that needs to fit in that space. I'm also going to have my A/C lines purged, then remove and cap the offending pipe for the time being until I can sort out where exactly is the best place to run it.
 
Actually, there are some compelling reasons to keep the bay in good nick.

Firstly, should an oil leak develop, it is easier to find it if one does not have to crape off the crud...

Secondly, thing run a degree or so cooler if there is not a coating of grease on everything.

Plus, it shows a bit of ownership pride.

But then, I am (was) a Mercedes owner so may be biased...
 
Re: Re: Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L

SolarBell said:
Went to the junkyard today looking for a WJ throttle body or a 99+ intake manifold. Struck out on both of those, but did some other useful bits. Found out that the '01-'04 4.7l V8 WJ throttle body is also found on an '01-'02 V8 Dakota and the '02 V8 Dodge 1500 pickup.

I found a '98 XJ and liberated the stock coolant overflow bottle mount and most of the computer wiring hardness.



I'm going to modify the overflow mount to provide a better way of relocating the overflow bottle since I'm just cutting off the two arms from the mount I have.

The wiring harness I got in order to make it easier to extend the throttle body connections and sensors to the passengers side, and to hopefully make it a little easier to splice in the F/IC. It was cheap, so even if it helps with the throttle body extensions then it was worth it.

I also grabbed a couple battery wires so that I can pre-build some of the new battery connections for the relocation ahead of time.

I also received the M90 refresh kit which also included instructions and a bottle of oil.

Click to expand...

You can make a small heat shield out of copper sheet metal that fits between the sensor and the bung to help with thermal issues.





SolarBell said:
Did some more validation of installation decisions today. Turns out the AEM UEGO sensor has to be mounted upstream of the any catalytic converters to be accurate, and at least 18 inches downstream so as to not cause thermal issues. Problem is, I have an '00 with the 3-cat setup, and the 2 pre-cats are very close to the block, so some sort of change is going to be required to get the AFR gauge working right. I hadn't planned the money, but perhaps this is the time to get the exhaust redone with a single high-flow cat. No matter what I do if I remove the pre-cats I will need to move the 2 factory downstream O2 sensors to be downstream of the main cat.
Click to expand...
 
Got the new coolant overflow bottle installed today. Realized I wasn't happy with the height of the overflow tube in it (maybe 2/3 - 3/4 of the way up instead of 1/2" from the top), but thankfully that is easily remedied with a small length of hose.

 
Does anybody know what the resistance curve is for the stock IAT sensor?

I realized today it would be easier if I could just leave the stock sensor in the stock location and use it for the post-boost IAT sensor and then use the new AEM IAT sensor I got as the engine's pre-boost IAT sensor. But to do that the resistance curves need to match or be really close.
 
Worked on the electrical side today. Wired the cross-connect for the battery temp sensor and installed all of my new gauges.



Having a few issues with the vac/boost and oil pressure gauges (the AFR gauge has no sensor attached), but I'm confident in the support from AEM so I know I'll work it out.
 
Asked a lot of questions today. Got some good answers, some less than ideal.

Spoke to an A/C service shop. They said they can easily convert the problematic hard line to a soft line and connect it across. In the meantime they can drain the sytem, break the hard lines just outside of the condenser where there is already a connector, and cap the lines until I am finished with the supercharger. Then when the installation is completely done I will go back and they can route the new soft line around the new hardware. Cost to drain an cap around $50 - $60, cost to convert the hard line to soft around $200 - $300 depending on labor time. I am planning on removing my winch and front fascia prior to that work to save them time and me money.

Spoke to a reputable local exhaust shop. They can't legally do what I was thinking of, so I have to go back and redesign around retaining the pre-cats. They can replace my main cat and re-do all of the pipe from just below the pre-cats all the way to the muffler with 2 1/2" pipe for $400 - $500. That includes welding in the bungs for the O2 sensors.

As a result of this news, called up AEM and asked about placement of the UEGO sensor. The options I have are to put it before all the cats and only on one bank, or on all the banks but after the pre-cats. AEM's recommendation was to put the sensor downstream of the precats, just after the merge. So even if I don't get the exhaust work fully done, I can just get that done relatively easily and cheaply. I can even pull the pipe myself and save myself money on labor for removal and installation.

<rant>
I hate emissions nazis. Most have gotta be in it for the money. I am all for saving the earth, but if they set a standard for the maximum emissions and I am way under the thresholds why should they care if I meet that number with 1 cat or 3?
</rant>
 
I was wondering if you would get away with the pre-cat removal plan... Would work here as we do not have inspections. I know, sell your house and move to the Springs! OK, maybe not. But, unfortunately we all have to live with the emissions stuff.

If I were able (can't...) move back to California for my health, I would have to strip out the Supercharger and the F/IC. At least until after the emission inspection and at every inspection thereafter... Which, 40 years ago I would have cheerfully done.

Did it with the suspension on my Triumph... But that is another story entirely.

Sounds like the A/C issue will be easily dealt with. If memory serves, the system needs must be capped and sealed in order to preserve the drier. Again, if memory serves, exposure to the atmosphere for a prolong time runs the device. As they are not free, paying the little extra now saves a big expense down the road.

Carry on, I am impressed so far. Not that that means much, but you have as much of my support as you can stand!
 
After some research, it turns out that my -30/35 psi vac/boost gauge is cooked, and almost certainly the sensor along with it. A sensor expecting 5V that gets fed 10.5V (open circuit) isn't the happiest thing. Good lesson in how to get burned buying used gauges that use sensitive electronics. It's only money, right?

Moving on to something else for the time being.
 
Has anyone on here ever replaced their oil dipstick with a flexible one? The dipstick tube and handle are right in the way of where the new throttle body are going to go and I need to move it out of the way.

Also going to re-route the heater core hoses to clear that area as well, but that's pretty straight forward - add 90* bend at the firewall and go.
 
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