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Project Rudolph

XJ_Rudolph said:
ok perfect, yea ill really need some new ubolts, .25in difference is too much :gee:
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ruffstuff U bolts or any 5/8" set is always good. don't want to get stuck welding a U bolt on the trail.
 
blondejoncherokee said:
ruffstuff U bolts or any 5/8" set is always good. don't want to get stuck welding a U bolt on the trail.
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Sounds good ill order it from them and maybe a hat too. Any naxja discount codes for them?
 
Yeah naxja and pirate
 
Jons got it! Lol friggin jeepapedia.

Even if.. U bolts stretch so typically you wanna get new ones.

I hate 8.25s. It hasn't broke but with the gears I've had setup the pinion nut tends to back off changing the depth and creating a howl. Not to mention a c-clip rear isn't fun to change a shaft. As I'm sure you found out with that 35
 
831_xj said:
Jons got it! Lol friggin jeepapedia.

Even if.. U bolts stretch so typically you wanna get new ones.

I hate 8.25s. It hasn't broke but with the gears I've had setup the pinion nut tends to back off changing the depth and creating a howl. Not to mention a c-clip rear isn't fun to change a shaft. As I'm sure you found out with that 35
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Yea my buddies 35 was painful, we ended up getting out though!
 
XJensen said:
Fixed it for you
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Lol ! My secret is out! Yeah having your rig welded up at the trail head before 5 days of wheeling is something to avoid ! Run spring over and run beefy u bolts !
 
Some updates, got a d44 axle in the rear! Stock xj off of a 88. Had to swap ebrake cables from 8.25 to 44, was a process but ended up working perfectly in the end! Also put on the ruffstuff 5/8in ubolts, and they are craaaazzzyyy beefy!! Now its time to do a fluid change on it. Does anyone know the proper fluid to use for it? Iv done some research but literally everyone says something different, even on the weights. Next on the list is some underbelly armor and tail lights!
3384bfea009f27c12944053c039e28d4.jpg
8186d7d66f661d9bafa54039aed1ea33.jpg
 
If open carrier or lunch box locker simple 80 90 gear oil is fine! Or if your feeling classy run th 50w synthetic gear oil only difference is it doesn't have as harsh of a smell as reg gear oil
 
Those bottles dont have the modifer. They just say they can be used to top off a lsd diff. Way different. Royal purple makes a gear oil with actual lsd addditive though. . Amd you dont want it. Dont bother with the mopar additive either . It allows the cluthces to slip more so it chirps less on the street. I use 80-90w or 85-140w in my 44lsd in my mj. No additives.
 
blondejoncherokee said:
Those bottles dont have the modifer. They just say they can be used to top off a lsd diff. Way different. Royal purple makes a gear oil with actual lsd addditive though. . Amd you dont want it. Dont bother with the mopar additive either . It allows the cluthces to slip more so it chirps less on the street. I use 80-90w or 85-140w in my 44lsd in my mj. No additives.
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And the clutches not slipping doesnt hurt anything? And which weight would you recommend the most? No cold winters will be seen by the d44(like midwest style winters)
 
XJ_Rudolph said:
And the clutches not slipping doesnt hurt anything? And which weight would you recommend the most? No cold winters will be seen by the d44(like midwest style winters)
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I'm not sure how I feel about not running the friction modifier. I was told by a few fellow members not to run the modifier to increase the friction between the clutch plates thus making the LSD lock up tighter for more traction. After a couple years, the LSD now makes a god awful chattering noise when hot and making tight turns. Some fresh Valvoline gear oil that comes with the friction modifier already in it made the clutch chatter significantly quieter but there is still permanent damage. Wether it's from not running the modifier or not - who knows, but in the future I will run friction modifier in my LSD rear ends.


Edit: the clutch plates still slip if you don't use the modifier, it just takes more force to make them slip and the slippage is less smooth.
 
I run amsoil 75w -110, full syn. Modifier is in it. But running the lsd goop won't hurt.
 
Jeep450r said:
I'm not sure how I feel about not running the friction modifier. I was told by a few fellow members not to run the modifier to increase the friction between the clutch plates thus making the LSD lock up tighter for more traction. After a couple years, the LSD now makes a god awful chattering noise when hot and making tight turns. Some fresh Valvoline gear oil that comes with the friction modifier already in it made the clutch chatter significantly quieter but there is still permanent damage. Wether it's from not running the modifier or not - who knows, but in the future I will run friction modifier in my LSD rear ends.


Edit: the clutch plates still slip if you don't use the modifier, it just takes more force to make them slip and the slippage is less smooth.
Click to expand...


What weight oil do you usually run with friction modifier?
 
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