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Project Long- Arm Complete! (pics)

Ok I am gonna straighten this whole thing out for everyone that has criticized my welds so far.... Yes I know they look boogery and bad where the bracket connects to the frame rail... but looks can be decieving.. I was welding upside down and the ratio between the double sheet metal frame and 1/4 inch angle was not totally dialed in.. I can asure all of you that the welds have gotten proper penetration and are very strong... the brackets also consist of 5 plug welds.. 2 on the outside and 3 on the bottom... with beads on most sides of the plates as well.. As for not having cross bracing.. that really isnt needed right becasue my unibody has been significantly strengthened by my rockers.. which were also welded on by me.. Note: They have been hit hard many times.. no signs of welder fatigue or cracking.... As for not boxing the upper mounts.. that also isnt really needed where as they are being tied together by a bolt and the arm itself.. as a fabricator in-training i guess you could say.. i appreciate the comments.. but you can't always tell the true strenth and structural capabailites of these long arms and mounts. If anyone has any more questions feel free to ask..

My driveshaft is a Tom Woods Modified by my local driveline shop Front Range Driveline...

Oh yeah, although I do trust my welding.. I am gonna run some bolts through the body mounts for re assurance.

One more thing I am only 17 years old so cut me some slack! :D

Max
 
WhiteXJMax said:
Ok I am gonna straighten this whole thing out for everyone that has criticized my welds so far.... Yes I know they look boogery and bad where the bracket connects to the frame rail... but looks can be decieving.. I was welding upside down and the ratio between the double sheet metal frame and 1/4 inch angle was not totally dialed in.. I can asure all of you that the welds have gotten proper penetration and are very strong... the brackets also consist of 5 plug welds.. 2 on the outside and 3 on the bottom... with beads on most sides of the plates as well.. As for not having cross bracing.. that really isnt needed right becasue my unibody has been significantly strengthened by my rockers.. which were also welded on by me.. Note: They have been hit hard many times.. no signs of welder fatigue or cracking.... As for not boxing the upper mounts.. that also isnt really needed where as they are being tied together by a bolt and the arm itself.. as a fabricator in-training i guess you could say.. i appreciate the comments.. but you can't always tell the true strenth and structural capabailites of these long arms and mounts. If anyone has any more questions feel free to ask..

My driveshaft is a Tom Woods Modified by my local driveline shop Front Range Driveline...

Oh yeah, although I do trust my welding.. I am gonna run some bolts through the body mounts for re assurance.

One more thing I am only 17 years old so cut me some slack! :D

Max

As a fabricator in training, you should understand that boxing in any mount is better than leaving two tabs to move sideways. The work looks like a good start, you do need jam nuts on any threaded connection and you might want to go over those frame side plates again "just to be sure".

As for the comment about a x-brace? I have to say, "HUH?" I mean, the stock LCAs are not x-braced and these mounts are back near the factory x-member........???

Keep up the fabrication, I've seen alot worse...........
 
vintagespeed said:
As for the comment about a x-brace? I have to say, "HUH?" I mean, the stock LCAs are not x-braced and these mounts are back near the factory x-member........???

Keep up the fabrication, I've seen alot worse...........

Yes, but the stock LCA mounts also don't do the duty of the UCA mounts as well. I'm not saying his mounts will fail. I'd just feel safer if they were tied together. I just don't see how spreading stress is a bad thing.
 
Dann said:
Undercutting is when your base metal or weldment gets washed into the weld leaving a concave or cut away appearance at the weld to weldment or base metal junction(s). It is usually caused by improper heat, speed, or insufficient filler metal. When welding metals of differing thickness, concentrate your arc on the thickest component to be welded and work the arc into the thinner metal quickly at a steady speed with out allowing the arc to wash away material from the thinner component. Hope this makes sense, because I am a lousy teacher. Dann


Hey Dann, I know what you're talking about.... and I've always known when welding that it isn't a good thing, but I never knew that was the term for it, Undercutting.

Is this an example of what you mean?

undercut.jpg


Maybe a minor, or non extreme example?

In the other passes, I had turned up the wire to keep up with the heat, so they don't look quite as bad..... like the pass that you can see the best.
 
Dave, stop pimpin your welds, we all know you can weld. You just make the rest of us look bad :eek:
 
Dave, your welds look fine, and actually yes, that can be considered undercutting if one is taking a welding test, and the grader is an a**hole. But it is non-structural and very minor. Undercutting mainly applies to angled applications (90*, 45*, etc...) with filet welds and what not, though I have seen outstanding welding studs (sarcasm) undercut reinforced butt welds.
 
Dann said:
Undercutting mainly applies to angled applications (90*, 45*, etc...) with filet welds and what not, though I have seen outstanding welding studs (sarcasm) undercut reinforced butt welds.

When you say the 90 and 45* welds, what exactly do you mean? like bumper sides to bumper tops?

and what is a filet weld?
 
The piece to be welded to the base metal is at a 90* (or whatever) angle in relation to the base metal. A filet weld is:
lll filet weld
lll
lllx the x's are the weld. the lll's are the pieces to
lllxxx be welded.
lllxxxxx
lllxxxxxxx
llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

butt weld
lll lll lll lll lll lllxxxllllllllllllllllllllllll
 
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