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Project Geosynchronous Orbit

get shit where it fits and FIRI(within reason), this aint NASCAR or F1

X2.

You'll have bigger and much more expensive priorities shortly. Plus in a few months "Anything you say dear." will also be a major part of your vocabulary. :laugh:
 
get shit where it fits and FIRI(within reason), this aint NASCAR or F1

Yeah I was just having a temper tantrum because in order to get shit where I want it, I have to redo part of my coolant lines and my exhaust. Oh well.

3/4" makes a pretty big difference in handling. If he intends to compete, i'd spend a little time on it to get it working well. When i first linked the rear, i just put stuff where it fit, and it was pretty effing sketchy, even on the street.

Yeah and I don't feel like redoing link mounts. Thanks for the pointers dude.

No chance you can mount the uppers to a crossmember across the top of the frame rails?

As I recall there is a significant amount of space between the frame rails and the bottom of the bed near the front. Like 3-4" significant.

I probably could, but it's not the uppers that are a problem it's getting enough triangulation on the lowers without a crossmember getting into the driveshafts way.

One link.



Done.

Y U SO SMRT???

X2.

You'll have bigger and much more expensive priorities shortly. Plus in a few months "Anything you say dear." will also be a major part of your vocabulary. :laugh:

Meh, nothing crazy expensive so far (nor planned out).

Yours is like that? I must be lucky. Even after Kate knew we were getting married she told me to drop thousands on my MJ :laugh:

Read this...

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm


It's wordy, but it gave me a whole lot of insight into link design.

You shouldn't have to inboard your lower links on the frame side too much. Only enough to cut down on rear steer a bit.

Thanks dude. Good info there.
 
Yeah I was just having a temper tantrum because in order to get shit where I want it, I have to redo part of my coolant lines and my exhaust. Oh well.
Typical Colin. :laugh3:

Yours is like that? I must be lucky. Even after Kate knew we were getting married she told me to drop thousands on my MJ :laugh:
Oh, I wasn't talking about spending money on it. You'll see.
But don't get me wrong here, I ain't complaining one bit.
 
Yeah I was just having a temper tantrum because in order to get shit where I want it, I have to redo part of my coolant lines and my exhaust. Oh well.

Def understand that, I had to cut shit I didn't want to, and still might have to notch my crossmember
 
I probably could, but it's not the uppers that are a problem it's getting enough triangulation on the lowers without a crossmember getting into the driveshafts way.

durr, I am a retard and somehow completely forgot that.

However, not all is lost. You could make what amounts to a triangular (rhombus?) crossmember, two legs going straight across the top of the frame with as much separation between them as possible, then one crossmember split completely in half between the two bottoms of the frame rails to avoid the driveshaft hitting it at droop, then triangulate the inboard ends of the lower half crossmembers to the upper crossmembers. That way your LCA load isn't going to just bend the crossmember forward/back... though you still have to worry about torsion on the 3 crossmembers unless you plate the whole structure or triangulate.

I'd draw this out but I can't draw for shit.
 
I haven't really been keeping up on this thread, but I guess I'll update it.

I got some Edelbrock E-street aluminum heads from my uncle in exchange for some work on his 70 Duster (weld in trunk floor, frame connectors, new gas tank, etc.). He has a hook up with a vendor and gets really good deals on stuff.

10014722_790764614630_1699367664_o.jpg


1800150_790767219410_1547230015_o.jpg


So I wasn't going to swap them on until over winter, but long story short I left my MJ outside and apparently my air cleaner wasn't totally water tight. A nasty thunderstorm rolled through and drowned the motor. I didn't realize it and tried to start it and heard clunk.

Tore the motor down and found I bent the #8 rod. Everything else checked out just fine so I grabbed another .030 over piston and stock forged rod from my uncle (yes he has spares of everything), reused the rings/bearings, and threw it in along with the aluminum heads.

10487529_816143085970_283380867552528409_n_zps1a0b9dd6.jpg


10428305_818950140610_5476989909015973891_o.jpg


Bought some cool stickers while I was down at All Chrysler Nationals in Carlisle, PA. Factory six pack air cleaner stickers.

10527885_817901681730_8801120374109610290_n_zps1a1a55f4.jpg


Took it to the dyno to get the A/F in line at WOT...turns out it was pig rich to begin with. Also figured out something is choking the thing off at 4500 RPM and up (see the power nose dive). Looked at some datalogs and saw the thing is pulling vacuum at WOT starting at around 3500-4000 RPM. Have to see if it's the air cleaner setup, air filter, or TBI setup.

10363459_832531957540_3420207481494605262_o.jpg


Dyno video and a quick holeshot to test out the new tune.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YMExO3QdJY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IiVwQ8_iwk
 
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