polishing a D30... or?

[Kejtar]

One thing possibly overlooked, is the increase in braking capacity with the D44 outers. Look for a full build up of a hybrid soon, I have a crazy notion I want to try. Bigger brakes being one of the driving factors along with D44 strength and D30 ground clearance/weight.

OK, sounds like you got a plan spill it

 

[Rock Yacht]

Just collecting pieces at this point.

Have:
HPD30 non disco housing out of a 94 XJ
'77 Dodge D44 yokes, flattop knuckles, and 5 on 4.5 unit bearing hubs
'77 Dodge brakes - rotors and calipers
'77 Dodge D44 shafts (need shorten and respline)
HP30 4:10 R&P

Need:
D30 30 spline ARB & compressor
Master install kit
5-760 Ujoints
Misc seals
bag of $$$
time

On the drawing Board:
Custom full length truss with integral UCA mount and track bar mount

 

[Kejtar]

If you're using D30 tubes as they are and putting knuckles that take 44's onto them, expect to have to use custom shafts.

Just collecting pieces at this point.

Have:
HPD30 non disco housing out of a 94 XJ
'77 Dodge D44 yokes, flattop knuckles, and 5 on 4.5 unit bearing hubs
'77 Dodge brakes - rotors and calipers
'77 Dodge D44 shafts (need shorten and respline)
HP30 4:10 R&P

Need:
D30 30 spline ARB & compressor
Master install kit
5-760 Ujoints
Misc seals
bag of $$$
time

On the drawing Board:
Custom full length truss with integral UCA mount and track bar mount

 

[Rock Yacht]

If you're using D30 tubes as they are and putting knuckles that take 44's onto them, expect to have to use custom shafts.

No custom shafts... We will be keeping stock width at the wheel mount flange.

 

[Kejtar]

No custom shafts... We will be keeping stock width at the wheel mount flange.

Hmmm I thought that the problem arose from the positioning and opening of the C and the balljoints thus requiring the shortening of the shaft to place the ujoint in the proper position.

 

[JeffsJeep04]

Hmmm I thought that the problem arose from the positioning and opening of the C and the balljoints thus requiring the shortening of the shaft to place the ujoint in the proper position.

Yup. I'm also wondering why go through all the trouble to still end up with unit bearings?

 

[Matt]

Ok guys I have the very axle you are debating...

I took my OEM HP D30 and cut the inner knuckles off of it...

I then mocked up with warn XJ inner shafts where the ujoint centerline and the ball joint/kingpin axis needed to be - it puts the D44 inner knuckle 1.25" beyond the placement of the late model D30 stuff.

I then took K-5 inner knuckles with some tube still attached - never touching the factory K-5 weld I cut the tubes to make up for the offset distance and then turned a small register and beveled the ends for welding - welded them on and ran XJ D30 inner shafts, CTM's and 79' wagoneer outer stub shafts....

All axle shafts were from 4WP with one phone call , and one call to Jack at CTM

I also used the waggy donor axle for brakes, spindles and hubs - combined with some 6 bolt flat top knuckles this gave me high steer, big brakes, warn premuim hubs and servicable wheel bearings.

The HP 30 w/ 4.88's and welded spiders has had no issues - since 2002 when I started running this setup with 38.5" SX's

In that time I have rolled the jeep 5 or 6 times, killed a few link bars, 2 front driveshafts (died w/ link bar failure), bent the long side front tube (even w/ trussing - then straightened it), broke a 31 spline 9" rear axle and generally flogged the 5000 lb rig... In all that time the setup has never been unable to drive out of the woods and make it home...

Every time folks look at the setup they wonder why? However it used parts I already had (diff), it keeps working, and it keeps the D30 haters confused - So I say go for it!

 

[Kejtar]

I then mocked up with warn XJ inner shafts where the ujoint centerline and the ball joint/kingpin axis needed to be - it puts the D44 inner knuckle 1.25" beyond the placement of the late model D30 stuff.

Did you kind of eyeball it so that an imaginary line drawn through the center of the ball joint holes goes throught the center of the ujoint?

 

[Clean Racing]

Every time folks look at the setup they wonder why? However it used parts I already had (diff), it keeps working, and it keeps the D30 haters confused - So I say go for it!

Finally.... Right ON! Someone who is willing to think outside the "box" without having to go full width 1 ton axles...Like every one else... I like the set up you have on that 30.. If I had not already spent a small fortune on my D44HP, that would have been my route... I have set up a couple of d30's pretty much the same way for some other jeeping buddies...

 

[Rock Yacht]

Hmmm I thought that the problem arose from the positioning and opening of the C and the balljoints thus requiring the shortening of the shaft to place the ujoint in the proper position.

I didn't say there wouldn't be some custom trickery in the housing itself. The shaft length though will be stock.

Why keep unit bearings? 1) I have the donor parts, 2) I run 2000 Freedom edition 16" stock wheels and don't want the lock-outs sticking out in the weeds - not that they would fit through the wheels anyway 3) don't want to change wheels 4) The Dodge Unit Bearing setup is twice the size of the stock Jeep (XJ/YJ/TJ) stuff, plus it's serviceable/rebuildable and finally 5) like Matt says above "...it keeps the D30 haters confused"

Matt, nice job. That's what I'm talkin about. D44 strength and D30 ground clearance!

 

[Matt]

Did you kind of eyeball it so that an imaginary line drawn through the center of the ball joint holes goes throught the center of the ujoint?

I actually took a rod and put it through the ball joint holes in the inner "C" and blocked up the axle shaft in the tube so it was centered - I could then find the path that was centered on the ujoint cap holes and the little bit of clearence needed behind the ears of the axle shaft and the inner "C"

I just took a little bit off the K-5 tube and inner "C" at a time so I could find my offset...

Depending on how much you want to bury your splines at the axle your offset number may vary a bit - I came out from full engage about .075" and left about .050 - .075" between the swell at the ears of the axle and the housing...

Hope that helps

Matt

 

[y-townxj]

i am thinkin of welding my 30 up, because my buddy got welded diffs in his yota, and i wish i could hang with him in the browns. But i dont and will probably never have the money for a locker so how bad will the turning be when its in 4wd and 2wd . Note that i have a non disco so the deal with lockin and unlockin that is out thanks

 

[Ramsey]

dont do it. save up and get a lock right for 230$

 

[BrettM]

without a disconnect (or manual hubs) it will be locked together always, you won't be able to turn on the street.

there are 2 cheap options, an Aussie locker, Lock right, etc for about $200. Or if you feel like doing way too much work but it would be basically free, you could swap a disconnect D30, weld it, and make your own actuator for the disconnect.

 

[y-townxj]

thanks i thought about swaping in a disco 30 from a 4cyl with 4.10's do those igsised and do you now of any good right ups on the cable disco thanks

 

[Ramsey]

is igsised suppose to be exist, or am i just complete missing something.

do you have 410s in the back?

 

[y-townxj]

no i dont have 4.10's in the back i now the gears have to mach, ive got it handled buddy.