please help save my new engine

[85xjwoody]

Today I am replacing the radiator again. It is under warrenty so I can get a new one for free just to iliminate that aspect. The fan is pulling air towards the engine, the upper and lower hose is very hot and full of pressure. The lower hose definitly does not have a coil and all dealers in the state have them on back order. I would like to replace it but still don't think it is colapsing. What is the porpouse of the radiator in the front? The transmision hose coming off of the radiator kinked when I was taking off the radiator so I will have to replace that. Where do I replace the transmission fluid? And is transmission fluid run through the radiator to cool it off as well? Deeper and deeper still without finding the answer.

You can fill your tranny fluid at the dipstick. I am not sure about your jeep but if the tranny has lines going to the bottom of the radiator than the radiator does the cooling for your tranny. That is how mine is set up but I have an 85 with a 2.5 four cylinder. What do you mean by a radiator in the front? Is there air conditioning in your jeep? If so than it could be for the a/c. Have you checked to make sure you are full of coolant? Don't know if you have topped it off again since you have been boiling over.

Kim.

 

[xtreemathlete]

Damn Kim, are you on here all the time? I do have AC, but it doesn't work right now or ever since I have had the jeep, no worries I just use the windows. I have two seperate radiators in my jeep. I guess the tranny is cooled by the same one that cools the engine and maybe the front one is for the ac.

 

[85xjwoody]

Damn Kim, are you on here all the time? I do have AC, but it doesn't work right now or ever since I have had the jeep, no worries I just use the windows. I have two seperate radiators in my jeep. I guess the tranny is cooled by the same one that cools the engine and maybe the front one is for the ac.

Not all the time just most of the time. I do alot of reading here about upgrades that I want to do. You are right about the radiators. The one in the front should be for your a/c and the one closest to the engine will be for the engine and tranny. Have you checked your coolant level since it has boiled over? Make sure that it is properly filled and no air in the sytem. I don't know much about the 4.0 engine but my 2.5 is very simular in alot of ways so I help as much as I can. I Spend most of my free time either here getting info on what I need to do on my next project and how to fix things or spend it in the garage working on my jeep. Do alot of searching and you will come up with the info you need 99% of the time. I will be a member soon, just waiting for the name to turn red. Good luck.

Kim.

 

[Muddy89XJ]

I will be a member soon, just waiting for the name to turn red. Good luck.

Kim.

i would be already...but im not 18...im 17

 

[old_man]

Running really lean means that the engine is not set up with the right fuel to air ratio. In otherwords, it isn't getting enough gas. This causes an engine to run very hot and can cause premature engine failure. You can tell this several ways. The two most common are to look at the tailpipe. It shouldn't be light in color. You can also pull the spark plugs and tell how lean or rich they are running by the color and deposits on the plugs.

 

[xjcrawlr]

OK, you say you've replaced everything but I have to ask, what did you replace it with? The quality, fit, and performance of factory parts far exceeds the junk you buy at CSK, Autozone, ect...

Belive it or not but there is a signifigant difference between a factory waterpump and one from vato-zone. 100,000 miles from factory parts are not uncommon, that kind of reliablity is worth the extra pennies.

A list of must have items for efficient cooling;

OEM type (late-model) 2-core alum radiator
OEM water pump (towing package)
OEM t-stat (190 deg)
OEM hoses (including heater hoses)
OEM heater hose switch ( that thing that all the heater hoses go to)
OEM (carquest,napa) t-stat housing
OEM aux fan ( late model w/ curved blades)
OEM fan clutch

Then check sending units and gauges, flush fluid, use 50/50 mix with DISTILLED water.

I was battling over-heating for years and when I finally did all this it ran like new again!

 

[Atl XJ]

There is a different water pump for the towing package and non towing package models?

 

[xjcrawlr]

To be honest I dont really know. Some say it has a slightly higher flow rate and some say there is no difference at all. Jeep lists it as a different part # so I went with it anyway. I do know that the towing package added a seperate tranny cooler though, so that is on my list of upgrades.

 

[xtreemathlete]

IT IS FIXED!!!!!!! Thank you everyone who has helped me out with info. for those of you who are interested it was the radiator. The last post was about how different factory and aftermarket products are. ISn't that the truth. I replaced the radiator 16 months ago with a new one from auto zone and that is all it lasted. What a piece of junk. water was flushing through it fine but it wasn't keeping the engine cool. It does have a lifetime warrenty so it was free (I guess by lifetime they mean another 20,000 miles). I will have to keep my eye on it from now on. the idle temp is now at 160. I guess now everything else on the cooling system is new. I am sure I will be posting more questions about upgrades soon. If this problem hasn't made me drive the Jeep into a river than I guess it will be around for a little while longer.

 

[jcnoble]

Bravo! I bought a ox sensor from autozone that made my xj run rich and fail smog, i spent a bunch of money on various sensors and cat before i figured it was the new ox sensor (plus the cat). Anyone else have problems with autozone parts????

 

[xjcrawlr]

The ONLY things I buy at (V)auto-zone are fluids and cleaning supplies.


(me)
"Yea, I got a 94 Cherokee XJ, 4x4 with a 4.0 and an automatic. I need a..."
(auto-zone kid, typing..)
" OK, so a 94 grand cherokee with a 4 cyl.."
"No, a 4 liter, 6yl."
" OK, with a V6..."
(me, smack head with hand and walking out frustrated)
"I'm going to Car Quest!"
(him)
"QUE?"

 

[85xjwoody]

The ONLY things I buy at (V)auto-zone are fluids and cleaning supplies.


(me)
"Yea, I got a 94 Cherokee XJ, 4x4 with a 4.0 and an automatic. I need a..."
(auto-zone kid, typing..)
" OK, so a 94 grand cherokee with a 4 cyl.."
"No, a 4 liter, 6yl."
" OK, with a V6..."
(me, smack head with hand and walking out frustrated)
"I'm going to Car Quest!"
(him)
"QUE?"

:laugh:

Same thing pretty much happened to me when I went there for my cv axleshaft. Guy behind the counter tried telling me that I was talking about my front driveshaft and that the wagoneer didn't come with these axles or with a four cylinder. Ok, so I went home and pulled the shaft and brought it there. I showed it to him and he said that this was something totally different than what I was talking about when I was first there. I told him this is the same part that I was talking about the whole time. He said that they didn't have anything like that. I told him that this was the most rediculous service that I have ever experienced and left. I have not gone back there for anything. Carquest 99% of the time has what I need so I go there. I have been purchasing so much there that they give me pretty good discounts now. Autozone in my area sucks.

Kim.

 

[jcnoble]

I got some injectors for $42, i hope they dont start leaking. The autozone in my area is good, at least they speak English and are somewhat knowledgable. NAPA is better but more expensive, Kragen is the only other parts store. I guess its hit or miss with Autozone like Russian roulette. I need an A/C compressor and was thinking about a cheap one fron Autozone, maybe I should cough up the extra bucks for an OEM ??

 

[langer1]

NAPA is better but more expensive, you really need to check not all the time.

 

[jcnoble]

OK, usually more expensive?? In my experience anyway.

 

[mhead]

IT IS FIXED!!!!!!! Thank you everyone who has helped me out with info. for those of you who are interested it was the radiator. The last post was about how different factory and aftermarket products are. ISn't that the truth. I replaced the radiator 16 months ago with a new one from auto zone and that is all it lasted. What a piece of junk. water was flushing through it fine but it wasn't keeping the engine cool. It does have a lifetime warrenty so it was free (I guess by lifetime they mean another 20,000 miles). I will have to keep my eye on it from now on. the idle temp is now at 160. I guess now everything else on the cooling system is new. I am sure I will be posting more questions about upgrades soon. If this problem hasn't made me drive the Jeep into a river than I guess it will be around for a little while longer.

Glad you found the problem! But did you find the cause? I guess a radiator can only fail (excepting leakage) to cool because it is plugged with sediment. Did you have it flushed over the 18 months it was in service? Any radiator will fail to cool if it's full of sediment.

 

[lloyd]

Cooling systems last much better if they are flushed and new coolant with distilled water is used about every 2 years. If you are replacing the radiator, flush and clean system BEFORE removing radiator. This way the crud doesn't get into new radiator.

Do brake fluid, power steering fluid, transmission, windshield washer fluid.. never mind the windshield washer fluidl.. got a little carried away there.