Place other than a dealership to get a speedo gear?

[mjma]

you can have it. I see no use for it, as I don't have the MJ anymore!

 

[5-90]

Sounds like an argument can be made for doing it that way, but you'd still have to accomodate both long and short shafts, unless you've got something cooked up for that already.



Interesting. When I researched to figure out what to change to for my 30s, I didn't see anything to indicate that the 231 and 242 used different part numbers.

Anything worth designing is worth overdesigning, eh?

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing. I've long believed that - just as "overkill" is not misplaced in engineering...

5-90

 

[johnlv6]

Edit: Any idea who would have a 27 tooth speedo gear (3.07 w/31's)? Thanks.

 

[CartsXJ]

Because I just don't have a lot of faith in plastic, and I've seen a few get munched in use anyhow.

I'll PM you my addy. As a note for those of you who have them to spare - let me know, and we'll work out details. I'd appreciate it if you would include a small card with the thing or a note saying what it was for (year/model/transfer case/transmission/axle gearing/tooth count,) so I can recall what it was for. I'll post a list as I accumulate them - I should only need one of each.

5-90

5-90,
I don't have alot of faith in plastic either, but when my speedo sensor froze and the plastic gear got grooved out by the tailshaft, I am glad I had a plastic gear in there. I can only imagine what a brass one would have don to my T/W 242 SYE mainshaft. Don't get me wrong, I am all for over-built and heavy duty engineering, I don't want it to break, but in this case, I am glad I had a weak link.

 

[Bob Myers]

The gear is made from plastic for a very good reason. It is the shear point when the cable fails, and sooner or later almost all will fail. You can't twist something around a corner for forever without it becoming fatigued. I have been around Fords since 1967 and yet to seea single tailshaft even slightly damaged by a dying or dead speedo gear. I have seen several speedo gears give up their teeth to old age or locked up cables though.

 

[Al S]

When I needed a 32 tooth gear for my 90 XJ, the dealership told me it was an obsolete part. I went to the wholesalemopar.com website and called the toll free number. They told me the gear was not available from the parts warehouse, but gave me phone numbers of dealerships that still had them in their inventory. I called a dealership in KY, the parts man verified that they actually had it and they shipped it to me. Total cost $15 arrived within 2 days.

 

[johnlv6]

Any idea on the 27tooth? The dealer only goes down to 29.

 

[Ramsey]

Any idea on the 27tooth? The dealer only goes down to 29.

regear

 

[5-90]

5-90,
I don't have alot of faith in plastic either, but when my speedo sensor froze and the plastic gear got grooved out by the tailshaft, I am glad I had a plastic gear in there. I can only imagine what a brass one would have don to my T/W 242 SYE mainshaft. Don't get me wrong, I am all for over-built and heavy duty engineering, I don't want it to break, but in this case, I am glad I had a weak link.

That's why I'm still wanting to use brass or bronze - they'll still strip out against hardened steel, but it won't be as easy. I can also imagine what a brass gear would have done against your mainshaft - you'd have nice little chunks of brass coming out next time you drain your transfer case (not little semi-melted bits of plastic sticking to everything internally...)

I picked brass/bronze for a reason - steel certainly wasn't going to happen! Imagine, if you will, the gear seizing - but the shaft is probably hardened 4340, and the gear is hardened A2. Yurf...

5-90

 

[old_man]

The speedo gear is a helical cut gear, not easy to cnc. They are normally machined using a hob cutter.

 

[5-90]

I know, I've got a few samples of the gears. I'll have to look into that - either cut with a hob, or a small 5-axis machine? Sherline has a small 8-axis mill that I've been looking at anyhow, would probably be perfect for this sort of thing...

5-90

 

[johnlv6]

regear

I'll get right on that.

 

[CartsXJ]

That's why I'm still wanting to use brass or bronze - they'll still strip out against hardened steel, but it won't be as easy. I can also imagine what a brass gear would have done against your mainshaft - you'd have nice little chunks of brass coming out next time you drain your transfer case (not little semi-melted bits of plastic sticking to everything internally...)

I picked brass/bronze for a reason - steel certainly wasn't going to happen! Imagine, if you will, the gear seizing - but the shaft is probably hardened 4340, and the gear is hardened A2. Yurf...

5-90

Yes I had to completely tare-down the 242 and I was picking out plastic pieces every where. The plastic really did mess things up, the t/c would shift right it would partially pop into 4wd, and with lockouts, you don't notice. But when you crawled underneath, you could turn the front d/s by hand. So I just toredown and re-built it, new chain and all, even new linkage bushings, if there was a seal or gasket kit for it, it was ordered from the dealer. Wasn't a cheap fix ~$250, but a piece of mind.

You are right the bronze would probably just turn into a fine powder and probably help with the lubing, HA. Though I am not sure how the oil pump would like it, it definately didn't like the plastic.

 

[5-90]

Yes I had to completely tare-down the 242 and I was picking out plastic pieces every where. The plastic really did mess things up, the t/c would shift right it would partially pop into 4wd, and with lockouts, you don't notice. But when you crawled underneath, you could turn the front d/s by hand. So I just toredown and re-built it, new chain and all, even new linkage bushings, if there was a seal or gasket kit for it, it was ordered from the dealer. Wasn't a cheap fix ~$250, but a piece of mind.

You are right the bronze would probably just turn into a fine powder and probably help with the lubing, HA. Though I am not sure how the oil pump would like it, it definately didn't like the plastic.

True - if I sintered the gear. I don't plan to - I'd like to use wrought stock, which will simply chip and break (into fairly large bits, that won't make it through the oil pump pickup screen...

I've just seen some failures that looked like they'd end up causing other failures (this is a good example...) and there's got to be a better way around it. Maybe it would cost more up front, but it would end up being cheaper (because you'd lose fewer parts with them - that's the idea...)

5-90

 

[CartsXJ]

True - if I sintered the gear. I don't plan to - I'd like to use wrought stock, which will simply chip and break (into fairly large bits, that won't make it through the oil pump pickup screen...

I've just seen some failures that looked like they'd end up causing other failures (this is a good example...) and there's got to be a better way around it. Maybe it would cost more up front, but it would end up being cheaper (because you'd lose fewer parts with them - that's the idea...)

5-90

Sounds like it might be something to look into later, though you are looking at a potentially huge market and product line-up. with all the different gear sizes and customers. I would if the larger bits could get into and effect any of the bearings?? Just a thought.

 

[5-90]

I've seen a couple of the NP/NVG oil pump pickups - even coarse screen shouldn't be a problem. And those pickups are finer than the one in the AW4 (breaking a brass gear typically results in fairly large pieces...)

Once I figure out how to write the first CNC programme, it would be a matter of just adapting the programme for the different shaft lengths or tooth couts - and I could then make them to order - I could maintain a selection of stock, and just make gears as ordered, I think.

I'd start with the NP/NVG transfer cases - since I'm already collecting samples of those. I need to write the page for the WiP "Items Needed" sooner or later - but that will probably after I get done with the torque charts...

5-90

 

[CartsXJ]

I've seen a couple of the NP/NVG oil pump pickups - even coarse screen shouldn't be a problem. And those pickups are finer than the one in the AW4 (breaking a brass gear typically results in fairly large pieces...)

Once I figure out how to write the first CNC programme, it would be a matter of just adapting the programme for the different shaft lengths or tooth couts - and I could then make them to order - I could maintain a selection of stock, and just make gears as ordered, I think.

I'd start with the NP/NVG transfer cases - since I'm already collecting samples of those. I need to write the page for the WiP "Items Needed" sooner or later - but that will probably after I get done with the torque charts...

5-90

Well if you need a 34 tooth, I've got one, and what use to be a 39 tooth:anon:

 

[Dirk Pitt]

You DO NOT want to "long hand" the program for a helical gear. Get yourself Surfcam or Mastercam and thank me later.

I still prefer to write it out myself for simple stuff, but CAM packages were made for the complex stuff.