- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
That was a long breakfast LOL
Yeah Windows updated and Sony Vegas shit the bed as a response. It keeps rendering audio and black screen. No video. Been trying to fix this all day. I'll link it here as soon as I can figure this mess outThat was a long breakfast LOL
I have detailed footage of the timing live feed on both a hot and cold engine and under load. If Sony Vegas is no longer compatible with Windows 10 as of the latest update then I'll just have to refilm it in one shot. Be up by SundayIt could be a timing problem. It's pretty simple to check timing chain slack on these. That's a starting point but know that the ECM also plays a role in engine timing.
Here is the live feed. Cold under load, hot under load and readiness test. Also life feed before start up. Any feedback would be great.
https://youtu.be/KFeNmnPsiXM
Yeah it's a limited reader. I don't have access to a better one. None of the under load data was in park. I was driving. Only time in park was off or idleThe O2 data is all over the place, at 2500 rpm in park it should be a very tight band from .040 to .050, .045 average.
Not sure what to make of the limited data you captured on fuel trim, it is in %, and the FSM lists 128 as a number base line, and above or below that number is positive or negative trim, going from 0 to 255 I think (Using a snap on MT-2500 scanner). Not sure what OBD-II % means, but I do not it can give you awesome data on what the ECU is doing versus the what the ECU knows is normal!!! Read up on fuel trim, it can be an awesome tool along with O2 sensor data. That O2 sensor data is either way too slow to post or the system is wandering all over the place from very rich to very lean. At 2500 rpm it should be super tight range bound, at idle they tend to bounce all over the place.
I haven't noticed any significant ghosting or wetness on the plugs. Tomorrow I'll pull 2 from this jeep as well as my other one and compare. But if they are reading incorrectly am I supposed to replace them? Or is this being caused by an alternate issue. Wired improperly, bad catalytic ecthttps://www.obd-codes.com/faq/fuel-trims.php
"Keep in mind that the computer has no idea if the o2 sensor is reading properly in some cases. For example if an o2 sensor was sticking rich, the computer would assume it was reading correctly and begin taking away fuel to compensate. This is referred to as a "false rich" condition. The computer would be leaning the engine and setting a possible P0172, P0175. The codes would indicate the engine was running rich but it ACTUALLY is running lean. If you use only the false rich codes to diagnose and don't observe all the fuel trim and o2 sensor data, you may make a false diagnosis."
I misread and did the test at different speeds of travel, not rpm. I will have to try the rpm thing tomorrowCheck the STFT and LTFT in park at several engine speeds. LTFT should not change much. Post up the highs and lows and RPMs
You mentioned something about my o2 data. My connector for my upstream (on the exhaust manifold) o2 broke. Not where the pins connect but the shroud around it. I am pretty sure I have it connected the proper way but it's possible I do not. Would it be possible that this is the issue? Or would it just stop working entirely if connected wronghttps://www.google.com/search?q=positive+LTFT+OBD-II+why&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b
The LTFT is above the new vehicle ECU/PCM baseline.
Could be OK, could be something.
LT is long term, an average of the ST Short term number over weeks....and months.
So on average: "Positive fuel trim percentages indicate that the powertrain control module (PCM) is attempting to richen the fuel mixture, to compensate for a perceived lean condition"
Check all the write ups on the links from that google search link for hints as to what your data means and what to do while driving and to watch for for additional clues. That was just one hint I quoted.
Also once you have various RPM, decel and acceleration (driving) data, wipe the PCM memory by disconnecting the battery to force it back to the new car baseline tables in the ECU and rerun the tests, and watch them over time as the LTFT accumulates a history and see what that indicates.
A new properly working rig should have a LTFT close to zero. The STFT will be all over the place (if everything is working) -10 to +10 (IIRC, maybe not that drastic, I forget, but (-) to (+) for sure) as you speed up and slow down, WOT to heavy breaking.