• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Pep Boys Proline Dex 3/Merc tranny Fluid

No. I subscribe to the old school view of working on engines that ran 30w non-detergent motor oil for years--now that was REAL sludge!

I don't have a problem with anyone switching from dino to synthetic or back. I think synthetic is the way to go in automatic transmissions if nothing else than for the temperature reduction and resistance to heat breakdown.

I must admit I didn't care for working on vehicles running the Mobil-1 Graphite oil. That stuff ended up on everything, and wiping off your tools didn't get rid of all of it, you had to wash them in the solvent tank. Good oil though.

I favor the diesel oils, but I use the dino because I change my oil every 3-months on the XJ; I don't think I hit 3000 miles in the last two years. If I was high mileage or severe 4x4 I would for sure be using the synthetic.
 
You don't mean ARCO Graphite, do you? I ran a shot of that in 1976 in my '63 Grand Prix- felt super at first- like another 50 HP. Then, the graphite settled out of solution. Instant valve tap. All 16 lifters rapping away. That was a few years before Mobil 1.

No, Mobil-1 Graphite, bought it from the Mobil station in town--early 80s. I haven't seen it in years, so I guess it was discontinued.
 
Ok, you're near the Left Coast, I grew up in Philly. Here, that filthy stuff was marketed by Atlantic Richfield. I don't know if they made it, though.

I was curious and Googled Arco Graphite, just to make sure I wasn't spouting ouy my ars. You brought up an old memory I thought was gone for good. Begining of the end for that old beast.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/215131-arco-graphite-oil.html

I don't know which came first, the chicken or the egg, Mobil or Arco, but if something sells everybody wants in on it. :D
 
Anyway, back on track. I'd heard and read where you shouldn't put synthetic fluids into older, higher mileage vehicles. Maybe it was just coincidence, but I put Castrol (only brand ever used since I've owned vehicles) synth. blend in my '92, about 140k at the time. It had not leaked up until this point, but was now pissing out the rear main. So, I put in a 'High Miles' type, which re-awakened the seal, but now a few of the recently installed lifters were tapping. Back to normal Castrol 10w30, quieted the taps,and now it only loses almost a quart between changes- every 3k since I've owned it. Now over 200k, seems no worse.

Did the synth shrink, or somehow alter the seals, or was it just time for the 4.0 leak. And, what will happen to the tranny, same miles, always changed every 30k or less, if I can't find Dexll or lll?
 
OK, 5 Drain/Fill cycles completed, Fluid looks great.

Question is now should I bother to take down the pan?
Since there is only a screen filter in there is it worth the hassle?

Then if I do take down the pan should I use a gasket or RTV?

I have heard that alot of guys have leaks after dropping the pan & replacing the gasket & end up having to use RTV anyway!
 
A gasket should come with the filter. I've been dropping pans to change filters for a long time, and have never had a leak. Make sure you tighten the bolts evenly, I like to go back and forth-side to side. Get a low range torque wrench, because the values are in inch-pounds. Go slow, and you'll be OK.
 
Back
Top