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PB blaster is overrated

I`ve used many penetrants over 30 years. PB Blaster has out performed all of them. I have not found a better penetrant.

Nick
 
Bryson said:
I havn't seen this mentioned yet, so I'll add...

PB works great, but the longer you let it sit the more it'll get the job done. I honestly think soaking it for an hour + allows it to work much better.

If I know that Im working on some thing I try to start spraying days in advance.
 
I have found that kroil is by far the best. If kroil won't break it free. Then break out the torch. It's gonna need some heat.
 
None of it works.

I cut everything now, usually without even trying the wrench.

Most of the guys who like penetrants live in a dry climate and really have no frame of reference of what a stuck bolt really is.
 
WD40 normally sucks but I have been using it in the gallon jugs with a spray bottle. It works a ton better than the aerosol cans ever have.
 
Dirk Pitt said:
None of it works.

I cut everything now, usually without even trying the wrench.

Most of the guys who like penetrants live in a dry climate and really have no frame of reference of what a stuck bolt really is.

Hey the rest of us live in Indiana too Dirk! :D
 
Dirk Pitt said:
None of it works.

I cut everything now, usually without even trying the wrench.

Most of the guys who like penetrants live in a dry climate and really have no frame of reference of what a stuck bolt really is.

Wait, so rust isnt just caked on sand/red dirt??

I love the desert :sunshine:
 
pb is my pick as well. Nevre heard of kroil but will definitely look for it. some of you say propane or map gas? does that really heat up enough to break a bolt loose? I guess if you have a really fine pencil point flame?
 
Bugboy said:
pb is my pick as well. Nevre heard of kroil but will definitely look for it. some of you say propane or map gas? does that really heat up enough to break a bolt loose? I guess if you have a really fine pencil point flame?
The science behind using a torch is that as you heat up metal, it expands. If you put the torch on the bolt, it will expand faster than the nut (since the nut isn't being heated directly by the torch), and this action is what breaks the bolt loose. If you continue to apply heat, the expanding action can actually stretch the (colder) nut a tiny amount, making it much easier to take the bolt out. It works REALLY well. I could not budge the eye bolts on my leaf springs with a 2' breaker bar and tons of Kroil, but after I heated them up for 2 or 3 minutes with the propane torch, let 'em cool for a bit, they came right out with a ratchet. I currently use one of the self-igniting torches from Home Depot that's made for soldering copper pipe. As far as MAPP vs. Propane, MAPP burns hotter, but I've always used propane and it's always been hot enough for me.
 
that is good to know. I have always used an oxy acetaline setup when i worked in a garage. I didnt know i could get the same benefits from teh propane or map. I always have map around as i was a former plummer as well.

quick question on the leaf spring eye bolts. when you heated them you did it on the head of the bolt or did you get to the back of it?

great thread here.
 
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