Yay, we have achieved daily driver status. As of this morning wifie has been driving xj to work for a week. All is holding well. There are still some bugs, but nothing that affects the drive-ability. The one I'm trying to get now is; Relays kick off. The electric fan and the A/C clutch relays, when removed and put back in, will power fan and clutch for a split second then kick off. These are new relays. I've ran a small ground wire to one side of the fan relay, and it makes it work.( just to be able to drive it with no worrys of over heating ). The A/C compressor will kick on if the switch side of the relay is jumped, but only did this as a test as the A/C is not necessary to drive the jeep. Is this common? Possibly bad grounds? Where do I look for them at? I know one from batt to block, and one from head to firewall. Where else? Or am I barking up entirely the wrong tree?
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passed around jeep
- Thread starter XJjamez
- Start date
Worked great for awhile. Now I've got tranny codes as follows;
p0753 shift solenoid A electrical'
p0713 tranz fluid temp sensor high input,
p1763 governor pressure sensor voltage too high,
p1765 tranz 12v supply control circuit fault.
.....BUT WHAT DO THEY MEAN ALL TOGETHER?
SOMEONE HEEEELP MEEE I HAVE A FLAT AW4... in my best gecko voice.
I'm thinking a solenoid(A) replace. Any thoughts?
p0753 shift solenoid A electrical'
p0713 tranz fluid temp sensor high input,
p1763 governor pressure sensor voltage too high,
p1765 tranz 12v supply control circuit fault.
.....BUT WHAT DO THEY MEAN ALL TOGETHER?
SOMEONE HEEEELP MEEE I HAVE A FLAT AW4... in my best gecko voice.
I'm thinking a solenoid(A) replace. Any thoughts?
Yes the proper PCM is a very big deal when you want your accessories to work. Got the proper PCM and bingo everything started working.
So now I've made it through shift solenoids and a TCM and was running great for awhile.
When I had the AW4 out I had noticed that someone had replaced the two large bell housing with all-thread, ran through, with nuts on ether side. My mistake was to not to replace it with the proper bolts. Inevitably the all-thread did break and I ended up with motor to bell housing bang. Found I had only one top (small) bell housing bolt loosely holding it all together. The other small one is still broke off in the block- to be fixed the next time that I drop the tranny, witch I feel will be very soon.
So I replaced three of the four - less the one broken small bolt - and got'er all tightened back up.
Now there is a mean vibration coming from between the motor and transmission. It occurs from 45mph to about 60mph. It even occurs when the Jeep is up on jack stands. The vibration feels exactly like bad U-joints but they appear to be strong, and while up on stands the vibration can be found to be emanating from the front of bell housing, rear of motor area.
The torque converter bolts are tight with lock tight applied, and flex plate appears to be intact.
Could a worn torque converter bushing be the cause of my vibration? I am planning on dropping the AW4, just hate doing exploratory surgery of that caliber without knowing what I'm going in after.
At any rate it'll be a good time to fix that pesky broken bolt.
So now I've made it through shift solenoids and a TCM and was running great for awhile.
When I had the AW4 out I had noticed that someone had replaced the two large bell housing with all-thread, ran through, with nuts on ether side. My mistake was to not to replace it with the proper bolts. Inevitably the all-thread did break and I ended up with motor to bell housing bang. Found I had only one top (small) bell housing bolt loosely holding it all together. The other small one is still broke off in the block- to be fixed the next time that I drop the tranny, witch I feel will be very soon.
So I replaced three of the four - less the one broken small bolt - and got'er all tightened back up.
Now there is a mean vibration coming from between the motor and transmission. It occurs from 45mph to about 60mph. It even occurs when the Jeep is up on jack stands. The vibration feels exactly like bad U-joints but they appear to be strong, and while up on stands the vibration can be found to be emanating from the front of bell housing, rear of motor area.
The torque converter bolts are tight with lock tight applied, and flex plate appears to be intact.
Could a worn torque converter bushing be the cause of my vibration? I am planning on dropping the AW4, just hate doing exploratory surgery of that caliber without knowing what I'm going in after.
At any rate it'll be a good time to fix that pesky broken bolt.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
The transmission and engine flapping around like that probably damaged the torque converter, flexplate, and/or input pump or input shaft depending on how far it moved - none of what you just described is good for any of those parts, and unfortunately you aren't going to get any idea which parts are blown up till you tear it down, as you already said.
Whoever put that allthread in there ought to be shot, it's no substitute for a proper grade 8 7/16 bolt like the vehicle came with in that position. Make sure you use the hollow dowel pins on the lower bolt holes when reassembling it, those hollow dowel pins are the parts that align the shafts properly with each other and if they aren't installed it'll probably wear things out prematurely again. The lower two bolts (the big ones) actually go through the dowel pins.
Whoever put that allthread in there ought to be shot, it's no substitute for a proper grade 8 7/16 bolt like the vehicle came with in that position. Make sure you use the hollow dowel pins on the lower bolt holes when reassembling it, those hollow dowel pins are the parts that align the shafts properly with each other and if they aren't installed it'll probably wear things out prematurely again. The lower two bolts (the big ones) actually go through the dowel pins.
Got talked into inspecting the harmonic balancer and sure enough it inspected as bad- rubber protruding- so I set about to changing it. Whilst in the shop an old orchard heater caught up and my jeep got a little scorchey. Anyway harmonic balancer got rid of a vibration that I didn't realize was there till it was gone but mid ship to aft vibration is still present from 50 to 60. Now in the market for wheel flairs and bumper tips and ends.
So I went exploring and didn't find anything chewed up real bad, however the torque converter has some minor groves on the outside of the input and the pump bushing showed some signs of wear. so I'm thinking a new TQ, bushing, seal, and the correct OSS and rotor to match my '96 TCM while I have the beasty out. I have recently installed a fresh set of solenoids. My question to the fourm is this; is there anything else I can do to this AW4 or transfer case to insure a long and happy life?
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
The 97 down vs 98 up transmission use different tailhousings as well as OSS sensors - the only difference in the housing is the diameter of the hole for the sensor and the way it bolts down, iirc. Just something to keep in mind when putting it back together, try and find a donor for the right tail housing. You'll have it unbolted to put the different OSS rotor on anyways.
Ahh crapola. Have not acquired a donor as of yet. Most prospects are rolling down the road, and the yard that I go to will not part out a tranny. So.... recon that the sensor hole I have can be modified or fabricated to accommodate said sensor? The jeep is presently torn down in a machine shop (lathe, vertical mill, mikes, calipers, tru-centers, bits, bars and what not), what luck right? BTW pesky broken upper bellhousing bolt has been extracted, thanks to resident machinist.
