The voltage readings are not that wild but the 60 Ohm reading shows there is a defect in the Bus. Generally there should be about a .02 to .150 volt differential between the Bus (+) and (-) circuits and I do see a split in your voltages so I wouldn't be concerned about that now.
You say "The fuel and voltage gauge don't move when I turn the key on." Are you saying your instrument cluster is dead? Looks like it.
There have been cases where the instrument cluster causes the 60 Ohm reading, whereas one of the CCD Bus wire connections in the cluster connector C2 is open, or the same result from a defect in the cluster module itself. C2 pins 1 and 2 are the CCD Bus connections.
Some folks have fixed this by complying with the TSB to replace the C2 connector and others have fixed this by replacing the cluster.
Other modules or the PCM are not out of the woods on your original problem of the P1694/No Bus, however.
I tested the instrument cluster and the results were what they should be according to the Factory Service Manual.
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If you had SKIS, your ignition key would look like this:
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My key is the more triangular shape than the circle shape. I doubt the SKIS would have caused this problem because I have used this key since I bought it and never had a problem. Plus, there was nothing done to it from when I turned it off Wednesday night to when I tried to start it Thursday morning.
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The fact that the radiator cooling fan turns on when the key is turned to RUN is odd.
Do another voltage check at the DLC. This time turn the key to OFF. Probe 3 to 4/5 then 11 to 4/5 and see what you get. You should see the differential between the (+) and (-) circuits (ref. the voltages you got with the key to RUN. As a note, my differential is .02 volts.
Leave the key OFF.
Go to trhe PDC and pull the cooling fan relay and probe between pin cavity 85 (ref pic below) and the battery ground post. You should see near what the differential voltage was. It may be lower but never batt voltage. This is the PCM idle voltage (differential) on the relay control coil ground circuit to the PCM. If it shows the (near) PCM idle voltage that control coil ground circuit is okay. Pin cavity 86 should read zero. With key to RUN, 86 should read batt voltage and 85 may change a bit.
Check this out and see what you get.
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When the key is off, I get no voltage between pin 3 and 4/5 as well as between pin 11 and 4/5. I held the probes for my voltmeter and was reading 0, then turned the key on and it started reading 2.41-3 depending on if I was on pin 3 or pin 11.
Pin 85 hole of the fan reads 0.02 and pin 86 reads 0 (with the key on, it was reading battery voltage.)
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I don't know what that ver2a test is. Here's the P1694 diagnostics steps.
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I would be nice if I could start the vehicle so that I could follow the steps that are outlined there.
As I am thinking about it more, it almost seems like the PCM had a hard shutdown when I turned it off and is still set up for how it was running right before I turned it off (A/C on and up to operating temperatures so fan is running). I don't know, just an idea