P-Codes???

[Dirtoyz]

I'm going to look at a 2000 XJ tomorrow that the owner says the check engine light is on, but he doesnt know what the code(s) are. I can get the codes when I go look at it, but I was hoping I could find a copy/list of the codes for that year so I know what needs to be fixed. It came from Connecticut so he didn't have to fix it, being in Massachusetts I have to fix it to get a sticker.
If there were any concerns for that year I'd like to know also.
Any help would be apreciated.

 

[hubs97xj]

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

Generic and manufacturer-specific

 

[Dirtoyz]

:worship: That's exactly what I was looking for . Thanks!

 

[Devilfrog]

Biggest concern is the cylinder head cracking between the #3 and 4 cylinders ... should be visible while running from cold with the oil cap off.
Other than that one it's pretty much the same as any other cherokee issues.

 

[Shorty]

Biggest concern is the cylinder head cracking between the #3 and 4 cylinders ... should be visible while running from cold with the oil cap off.
Other than that one it's pretty much the same as any other cherokee issues.

X2^^

fire it up and let it run for a couple minutes while you perform a cursory inspection. Then grab a flashlight and pop the hood. Open the oil cap and shine the light directly between cyls 3 & 4 in the valve cover. You will see coolant seeping if it's cracked.

The other thing to check is O2 sensor wiring.
If any of the codes are for O2 sensor heater circuits or O2 sensors out of range, a lot of times the harnesses to them get damaged when wheeling and these are easy repairs that should allow you to knock a few bucks off the price.

 

[Dirtoyz]

Thanks guy's. Much apreciated.

 

[Cottontail]

Biggest concern is the cylinder head cracking between the #3 and 4 cylinders ... should be visible while running from cold with the oil cap off.

X2^^

fire it up and let it run for a couple minutes while you perform a cursory inspection. Then grab a flashlight and pop the hood. Open the oil cap and shine the light directly between cyls 3 & 4 in the valve cover. You will see coolant seeping if it's cracked.

I thought the cracking issue was only on the 0331 heads on the 2001 models...not the 2000 year model.

 

[birchlakeXJ]

Usually you can see the crack the way the guys above described, but not always.......

Check the level in the coolant reservoir. The #1 symptom of a cracked 0331 cylinder head is "unexplained coolant loss". Not that the owner couldn't fill it, but just something that you should be acutely aware of.

And the casting defect on the 0331 covers each and every 2000 and 2001 XJ. Without exception.

 

[Shorty]

And the casting defect on the 0331 covers each and every 2000 and 2001 XJ. Without exception.

agreed^^

I've seen first hand 2000 model year 0331 heads crack (2 of 'em)
I don't know the production dates, but I don't think there was anything different about the 0331 head between the two years-- the only change was that all 2001 XJ's got the Cali. emissions pre-cats and only some of the 2000 models did. This may have something to do with the cracks (Excess heat from the pre-cats) as both the 2000's that cracked had the pre-cats.

 

[Cottontail]

Good to know. I didn't realize that 2000 was also affected.

 

[Dirtoyz]

Is there a fix for it? I know you can't fix it if it's cracked but do any other heads bolt on? Or is there a way to prevent it before it cracks?

And how do you pull a code on a 2000? The three times with the ignition thing doesn't work on my buddies.

 

[Cottontail]

And how do you pull a code on a 2000? The three times with the ignition thing doesn't work on my buddies.

Should work. It works on my 96 ZJ, my 01 XJ, and my 04 WJ.

Run to an auto parts store. Oftentimes they will do free code scanning.

 

[Shorty]

And how do you pull a code on a 2000?

best bet is to buy a cheap code scanner (Actron pocket scan or similar) and google the codes or have your local Advance or Zone read the codes and write down what it reads (then google it for common "fixes."

 

[Shorty]

Is there a fix for it? I know you can't fix it if it's cracked but do any other heads bolt on? Or is there a way to prevent it before it cracks?

only "prevention" is to keep it cool and pray:bawl:

I'm not a "search Nazi," but there's WAY too much to cover to type it all out here-- trust me when I say you will find more than enough info with a search on the 0331 head crack!:explosion

 

[Devilfrog]

Code scanner .. the key trick won't work for codes.

I'm using a $30 Bluetooth adapter and a program on my phone now, but I also have a OBDII csanner as well.

My head cracked and it was only able to be seen on startup, after it warmed up it closed up and boiled off. Wasn't really losing a lot of ccolant either, maybe a cup every few months ... so it's likely I caught rather quickly.
I'm running a '93 head now. Up in canada we didn't get the pre-cats so my bet is just plain and simple shitty castings ... apparently the 0331 head started in the end of the '99 Model year so there have been some reports of '99's with this issue as well.
But then again as the XJ are prone to running hotter heat is again a likely cause as well ... mine did go after an overheat ... and I don't think the TJ's suffered the same issue even though they got the same head.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

Is there a fix for it? I know you can't fix it if it's cracked but do any other heads bolt on? Or is there a way to prevent it before it cracks?

later 4.0 heads bolt right up and have the casting changed slightly to eliminate the cracking problem. the updated heads are still 0331 casting number but where you would look with the flashlight to check for cracks on the early 0331 the letters TUPY appear cast into the head.

 

[Devilfrog]

Is there a fix for it? I know you can't fix it if it's cracked but do any other heads bolt on? Or is there a way to prevent it before it cracks?

Pretty much any 4.0L HO will work for you ... BUT ... only the "00 and later will do so without problems.
that said, the earlier HO heads have larger exhaust ports, and the stock intake will bolt right up. The exhaust will be the biggest problem is using an earlier head. I solved that by using an earlier exhaust manifold and mating that to the stock exhaust. It actually gained a fair bit of 'seat of the pants' feel powerwise as the engine actually breated much better afterwards. And, where it used to wheeze out before, it kept pulling after the head swap I was quite surprised ... and pleasantly happy. When I did it, I used a couple of the old head bolts to line it up (cut the heads off) as the older heads didn't use dowel pins for placement.