ok dont kill me but i do have a serious question...

[1999red2DR4L]

Yes, I should use better grammar when writing, I admit I am a product of the failing ny state public school system, and in spite of my grnadmothers best attempts, when I type anything it shows, I can speak very well it written communication that I am lacking.

And as far as the towing I think the biggest issue that was pointed out is not the trailer weight vs truck weight its more the issue of the short and narrow wheel base the cherokee has. That was my only red flag about a travel trailer and I think given my wife and kids will be in the jeep its not worth the risk.

I am going to do the old cardboard mockup for some home brewed armor, may even attempt a bumper. I did get a crazy idea for a homefab trailer using a commanche bed, but that seems hard to find in good shape and if I have to build the frame and everything (commanche is unibody too) then why not just build the whole trailer from new metal.

 

[souske]

That's the problem with towing with an XJ, a square doesn't know which way is forward
Now look at a pickup - long skinny rectangular footprint, wants to stay going one way

Towed a 15' travel trailer down the west coast, and that was marginal, especially before the brake controller. 45-50, and no fun once the trailer got to swaying

 

[chris420]

I have a family as well and my wife drives the XJ from time to time. Listed below are things my wife bitches about.

1. The lights suck and she cant see at night plus she wears glasses.
Solution I just ordered a set of HID lights from BajaHID.
2. The jeep is to tall she is short and has a hard time getting in and out and it is hard to get the kids out of their car seats.
Solution should have went with a Old Man Imu lift.
3. Not enough room to hall all of the family shit and Dog.
Solution I have a roof rack.
4. Ruff ride the shocks are to stiff.
Solution I need a set of Bilsteins or OMI shocks valved for this rig.
5. Very loud inside cab.
I need sound insulation throughout.

As for building a strocker I would do a turbo or supercharger instead.

Thank you guys for your good inputs, I wasn't 100% to towing with the jeep, some of the rv old timers here in Yuma (and we have a lot of them) where saying its "possible" but they wouldn't recommend anything over 5k for sure. As far as the rear D44, I currently have the POS D35 and I got a steal on a 44 ($100) at the pick and pull junk yard in phx, I was shopping around and I found D30/D44 kits for like 3500 ish, I figured either way I have to put some money into the axles for at least lockers/limited slips why not put my best foot forward with a strong setup, I do plan a future stroker. And my lift plans were 3in 4wd hardware kit with adj track bar etc, however rough country seems very well reviewed (and a better deal) I am doing a disc conversion on the rears right now, and I would be interested to see if anyone know of a brake booster for say a 1/4 ton or so that would fit. I will certainly look at stifiners and armor, I will even see what I can fab in the weld shop at work, if anyone is local and wanted to help me design some armor I would gladly make doubles... Just throwing it out there, I figure one hand washes the other plus you never know when you may run into someone on the trail and need some help. Again thanks to everyone who has given some good advise and if you have anything else please send it my way.

 

[1999red2DR4L]

Why turbo or super charger? I mean I get the fact that its more bang for the buck, but the advantage I see with a stroker is my jeep started off life in new england, not a lot of body rust but all of the engine parts that I haven't replaced are rusty. With that being said, I only have 140k on the clock but the original owners must not have done a great job with up keep she runs like a jeep twice her age, so a rebuild is in store if I want to turbo or super charge anyway. The cost for a rebuild and forced induction vs a rebuild into a stroker its actually much cheaper to just do a stroker. At least from what I have seen. Unless you know of really good force induction deals, I don't know if that's for me.

 

[Alaskan89XJ]

Hey Marine.., you could consider welding in a 2" receiver both to front, and aft bumpers you are thinking about. This will allow you to use one of those portable winches. As far as winches go: http://www.moabjeeper.com/articles/general/listing.cfm?articleID=353 As far as mud tires go: http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/wheels/129_1104_massive_mud_tire_shootout_intro/index.html Notice that many of the tires in this test are also good in the desert, the rocks, etc. Of course, if you ever watched "South Park" on t.v., you will find that the Canadians have the very best wheels/tires for rock ledge climbs, i.e., instead of being round, they are square.., but are not meant for DD useages.

 

[1999red2DR4L]

That was an idea, but I am not sure if I like the setup. I mean someone can easily come and cut your pin off there goes 500-1500 bucks... But the versitility is amazing. And for tires I think a/tswork well for me, I have wrangler armortracs (sams club) they work well down at the river (gila and colorado river conflunce) soft sand and all, I have not hit any "mud" so to say but they have handle well so far, currently running 235/75-15 when I lift it maybe bump to 32s

 

[1999red2DR4L]

Oh as an added note I switched my car insurance today from USAA after 10 years they said after two accidents I was "too big a liability" and chose not to renew me. So went with gieco, saved 200 bucks a year and got non deductable. Anyway moral of the story they won't insure it after 6in of lift, so like I told the lady over the phone I think 1 xjs look weird with more than 4 or 5 in lifts 2 I maybe 6 3 but I don't want to jump to get in. Just some fyi everybody.

 

[cdawall]

Usaa has never saie anything aboout my ranger or xj both of which are lifted hell the ranger is sas'd...

 

[ruger81]

I would not be trying to tow a 26 ft camper with a stock XJ, much less a lifted one. A cherokee is just too small to safely do that,

Exactly right

 

[1999red2DR4L]

Well usaa didn't say anything then again I never asked them, I do know a budd of mine had his rates almost triple when he lifted his blazer. And that was with usaa. But every situation is different and each state has laws about insurance so it's a case by case I was just passing along what geico said and to clarify they will insure you but the will not cover the value of any lift over 6in

 

[chris420]

If you think you need to rebuild it then rebuild it. Does it have any oil leaks? How is the compression? Have the plugs been changed and air filter cleaned? You can remove the rust with a simple rust remover but I do not think rust will affect the way the engine runs. I would pull the oil pan and take a look inside before you drop some cash on a rebuild.

Why turbo or super charger? I mean I get the fact that its more bang for the buck, but the advantage I see with a stroker is my jeep started off life in new england, not a lot of body rust but all of the engine parts that I haven't replaced are rusty. With that being said, I only have 140k on the clock but the original owners must not have done a great job with up keep she runs like a jeep twice her age, so a rebuild is in store if I want to turbo or super charge anyway. The cost for a rebuild and forced induction vs a rebuild into a stroker its actually much cheaper to just do a stroker. At least from what I have seen. Unless you know of really good force induction deals, I don't know if that's for me.

 

[1999red2DR4L]

I have pulled the oil pan maybe two oil changes ago, had a leak rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gaskets all replaced. Come to find out it was leaking via the distributor. Everything looked suprisingly good, however I know that its "not recommended" to supercharge or turbo a unhealthy engine, and with that said since I don't know more than the last two year and 18k I would put that kind of stress on the engine. I mean yes this looked "good" when I pulled the pan, but I don't know how well the previous owner kept up on oil changes, etc. And as far as compression testing I have got that done yet I have been slowly fixing the smaller components as they fail ac, alternator, power steering, etc. I just look at it as this is my primary family mover, I want the piece of mind that having a fresh motor would give me if I do any hp adders. I have heard of these things regularly hitting 250k plus . I guess it more of me stressing about wanting to over build this thing so that it doesn't break while Im horsing around.

 

[yossarian19]

Honestly, I would have left my junk stock, suspension wise. After market components have never done what they advertised in my experience, and I am tired of putting band aids on top of band aids and fixing clunks that cause more clunks.

Put high quality shocks in it, good 235 series tires (no larger). Maybe add an LSD or an Aussie if you must. Fix any work out components. ZJ rear disc brakes.

If you have a lot of extra time & money, sure, go after market suspension if you want to. If you don't go take it through rock gardens or on high difficulty trails just for the hell of it, though, I would leave your suspension stock & have fun.

I used to drive my jeep all over the place, exploring dirt roads in Utah and Colorado probably 10 days a month. It was stock, and it was beautiful. The second I put after market parts in there, my problems started. If I'd known, I never would have modified my jeep. I miss the car it used to be... enough nostalgia from me, though.