Oil Pressure ?

[jeepsrock]

Well guys here are the results..After the new filter and oil switch, i am getting.

50-60PSI Cold Idle
40-50PSI Cold Highway Drive
20-25PSI Warm Idle

It still takes a few seconds on start up to get the gauge going, but i guess its ok.

Pete

 

[Ecomike]

Well guys here are the results..After the new filter and oil switch, i am getting.

50-60PSI Cold Idle
40-50PSI Cold Highway Drive
20-25PSI Warm Idle

It still takes a few seconds on start up to get the gauge going, but i guess its ok.

Pete

Those numbers all sound great except for the no pressure for 2 seconds after start up. Still sounds like a bad antidrain back valve leaking in the fiilter. Did you try a different brand filter? I don't have that problem with K & N filters, except right after an oil & filter change!

Does that brand filter you are using even have an antidrain back valve in it????

Edit: Just had an idea, try restarting it just seconds after turning the engine off. If the oil pressure comes up immediately but does not come up for 2 seconds after turning it off for say an hour, then it IS a leaking anti drain back valve in the filter like I said. IF I recall correctly some oil filters do not have an antidrain back valve (ADBV), but I don't recall the details. I do know that a working ADBV is critical on our jeeps since the oil filter is upside down!!!!! IT is not critical if the oil filter is installed open side up! Which varies on different cars and engines.

CartsXJ,

Try 20W50, Havoline, API SL grade if you can find it. Or any 20W50 API SL grade. Also add a quart of Lucas oil additive. That combo got my hot idle oil pressure up by 10 and in some cases 20 psi over straight 10W40 Exxon.

Also check your hot idle engine RPM and voltage gauge. I found that a higher idle, like 750 rpm versus 300 rpm makes about 20 psi difference in hot oil idle pressure. Also large, new oversized grounds brought my dash gauge voltage up and my oil gauge displayed oil pressure went up by a few psi. Some of my low oil pressure was a low idle rpm (TPS issue) and a poor grounds issue. The poor grounds show up when all the electrical loads are on at idle.

What is your hot oil idle speed in drive?

 

[CartsXJ]

CartsXJ,

Try 20W50, Havoline, API SL grade if you can find it. Or any 20W50 API SL grade. Also add a quart of Lucas oil additive. That combo got my hot idle oil pressure up by 10 and in some cases 20 psi over straight 10W40 Exxon.

Also check your hot idle engine RPM and voltage gauge. I found that a higher idle, like 750 rom versus 300 rpm makes about 20 psi difference in hot oil idle pressure. Also large, new oversized grounds brought my dash gauge voltage and oil gauge displayed oil pressure up by a few psi. Some of my low oil pressure was a low idle rpm and a poor grounds. The poor grounds shwo up when all the electrical loads are on.

What is your hot oil idle speed in drive?

I'll give the 20w50 oil a try this coming weekend. My hot oil pressure at idle will drop to just above zero and the check gauge ligth comes on, this is with straight 10w30. I'll check the voltage coming out of the switch tonight, what should it read?

Thanks

 

[90Blue_XJ]

Well I agree with Ecomike the filter I use is the Mobil one and I only have a no pressure the first time upon startup after an oil change. The oil o rings may be leaking a little too if they let air back into the filter to replace the oil that has returned to the pan. Try the conversion to a horizontal filter which will keep some oil in the filter no matter what.

 

[jeepsrock]

Ecomike, the filters i am using are the Napa Proselect, the reason i am using them is because i have a box of 12 of them..lol , I guess once my buddies and i get thru them i will try something else.

Though others have stated they have the same thing happening upon cold start, So i am unsure if its something i really need to worry about.

Pete

 

[Ecomike]

Well I agree with Ecomike the filter I use is the Mobil one and I only have a no pressure the first time upon startup after an oil change. The oil o rings may be leaking a little too if they let air back into the filter to replace the oil that has returned to the pan. Try the conversion to a horizontal filter which will keep some oil in the filter no matter what.

X2 on the conversion to a horizontal filter, but that may be more work than just buying and using filters that are not defective. Where is that site and write up, MadXJ or pirate4x4???, I forget. Try searching "filter conversion" maybe here on the mod section. I tried the horizontal on mine but had no room unless I moved or scrapped the carbon canister, so I just went with K & N filters and stayed vertical.

Sell the overstocked filters to your friends (Friends are overrated anyway, LOL) or on Ebay, and go buy some good filters while you still have an engine with bearings!

Some people go to extreems to make sure they have oil pressure at engine start up by adding electric oil pumps and external oil filters!

Long story short I would be very worried about the no oil pressure, I even worry every time change my filter!

 

[Kevinma255]

It sounds normal to me. it takes a second for the pump to charge the system. 75 at start up is about what i get then it drops to about 30 at idle, and runs 30-50 under use. If there is no leak around the filter seal and you have that oil presure I dont see a problem. if you hear banging and see smke that is a diffent story.

 

[jeepsrock]

Thanks for those who replied..
Pete

 

[TiRod]

X2 on the conversion to a horizontal filter, but that may be more work than just buying and using filters that are not defective. Where is that site and write up, MadXJ or pirate4x4???, I forget. Try searching "filter conversion" maybe here on the mod section. I tried the horizontal on mine but had no room unless I moved or scrapped the carbon canister, so I just went with K & N filters and stayed vertical.

Double XX2 that. The horizontal filter mod is a pain, especially if you use full sized "ford" type filters. I have to jack it up and install from underneath just to get clearance around the suspension link and charc can. I'm seriously thinking about going back to vertical. Moving the can to the driver's side is a involved mod. Putting in inside the fenderwell is no easy thing either.

Maybe a newer gen vehicle will eventually incorporate it in the air filter housing where it belongs and I can use it.

A case of twelve filters is about 5 years of dry engine starts - a guarantee of engine failure. You really need to use a good filter. It never pays to go cheap on them, engine rebuilds are far more expensive than any savings on filters over the life of the vehicle.

Let's do the math. A $1800 rebuild versus a dollar saved per filter X 30 oil changes for a 150K motor, 5k miles each time, or $30. I've bought a case like that, but they weren't giving me dry starts. You need to eliminate the filter as a cause of the problem. Try a different one - if it goes away, you saved yourself a premature engine death.

 

[NICK_BOWHUNTER]

I had a similar issue, i have a 00 xj, ive had it for a lil over a month( sold my 3/4 ton ford gas prices) and did some homework and decided on a xj, anyways the first time I changed the oil in it i used a fram ph16 filter and valvoline high milelege 10-30, fired the engine after i was done and noticed that the oil pressue was up from where it was prior to the oilchange and noticed it had what sounded like a tic coming from the bottom end :wierd: shut er down and made some calls, called a local jeep guru and this was not the first time hes herd of this, The fram filter has cardboard end caps on the media and as with most filters and the 4.0 oiling system design they dont flow well, they resrict oil flow causing the pressure to go up. I was told to go to a wix filter i belive it was part number 51085, and to put a better oil in it, so i went to a full synthetic royal purple 10-30 and although it still had that minor tic when its cold before it heats up the oil pressure is back to normal, on a different note anyone have any ideas of what this noise may be, it dosnt sound like its valve train, definately sounds like bottom end towards the back? :helpme: sorry for the long post and the fact that i cant spell ha ha

 

[jeepsrock]

Thanks for your input Nick, i have since changed my filter and my jeep is ticking like crazy. I have another thread completely dedicated to the ticking, maybe you can take a look later on..
So far i haven't found a way to cure the ticking and honestly its driving me nuts because it seems it has gotten worse.

Thanks again,
Peter

 

[bchulett]

...on a different note anyone have any ideas of what this noise may be, it dosnt sound like its valve train, definately sounds like bottom end towards the back?

Heat riser?

.

 

[NICK_BOWHUNTER]

Heat riser?

.

everything on the gauges looks normal, temp is right at 205 where it always is and oil pressue is 40 at idle 30 when its warm. I drove it today it does it when its cold and seems to go away when its at temp. and when you initially fire it it is not immediate it takes like 10-12 seconds till you start to hear the tic? any ideas? It hasent hurt the performance everything seems normal and it runs great? The noise just has me a little un easy. I just dont want to hurt the longevity of the engine, its got 123000 on er and from what i hear 225000 to 250 is normal, so if its somthing simple I would just assume fix er. thanks guys Nick

 

[curbdog17]

the other day while mudding my oil pressure dropped so low the check gauges light came on, the oil pressure was down to 1 or 2 psi. i pulled it out and let it cool down. i was able to drive home with about 5 psi. i did an oil change this morning and ditched the fram filter. CRAP FILTER. before the oil change i started up the jeep and had about 15 psi at cold start. i changed the oil to mobile 1 15w 50 and used a mobile 1 filter. when i started the jeep back up i had 55 psi at cold start and about 30 psi afer warming it up and driving around town. i am a true beliver in mobile 1 now, and will never buy another product from FRAM.

 

[deepjeeep94]

your oil pressures better than mine

 

[raypla]

the other day while mudding my oil pressure dropped so low the check gauges light came on, the oil pressure was down to 1 or 2 psi. i pulled it out and let it cool down. i was able to drive home with about 5 psi. i did an oil change this morning and ditched the fram filter. CRAP FILTER. before the oil change i started up the jeep and had about 15 psi at cold start. i changed the oil to mobile 1 15w 50 and used a mobile 1 filter. when i started the jeep back up i had 55 psi at cold start and about 30 psi afer warming it up and driving around town. i am a true beliver in mobile 1 now, and will never buy another product from FRAM.

No doubt Mobile one filters are good, I'm currently running one a M1 Extended Performance, M301, to go w/ the Extended performance 15,000 mi oil that I'm running. Don't overlook the Purolator Pure One filter, P3001, Ford 5.0 filter, threads onto my XJ and holds an extra 1/2 qt of oil.

My oil regiment for my XJ is as follows:

Fresh 6 qts of M1 Extended Performance and M301 or P3001 for 5,000 to 7,500 mi while monitoring the oil

Fresh Filter and 1 qt to 1.5 qt of oil at 5 - 7,500 mi

run another 5 - 7,500 mi

start all over

The oil at 10,000mi appears to be clean as regular oil and filter at 2,000 mi. In the long run it's not only cheaper it is reassuring to know that I'm doing good for my engine. Also I bought the XJ from my uncle who I know was putting in M1 since 25,000 mi so that was not an issue. The engine currently has 141,000 mi and has a slight tick on inital startup in the A.M., but what 4.0 doesen't, and doesen't burn a drop of oil. The main seal leaks a little but that promotes topping off, which keeps your oil fresher.

 

[Davinator61]

Better quality than Fram oil filters, replacing "O" rings on the oil filter landing-to-pump assembly, and using a thicker oil does seem to help oil pressure, short of replacing the oil pump. Of course this is based on my own experience. Your results may differ from mine.