- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You realize cruiser54 and the other guys you're being a dick to here are either very respected members of this forum, or current/former dealership techs, or both, right?Thank you for your replies. Exactly TWO people attempted to answer me with the data I requested. The others went off into a tangent regarding how accurate I am able to read my gauge. Not helpful!
For the two people that attempted to actually offer me advice based on actual oil pressures and experience...Thank You.
However...my original question was NOT answered by anyone:
ARE THE NUMBERS SPECIFIED (11 AND 13 RESPECTIVELY) THE NORMAL NUMBERS FOR HOT IDLE OR THE MINIMUM NUMBERS?
It is really a simple question. The answer would read something like this: "Those numbers are the recommended numbers, by the factory, for a new, good engine." OR "Those numbers are the MINIMUM safe numbers recommended by the factory and your engine is worn."
Anyone who actually KNOWS??
I am really not interested in a discussion of whether or not my gauge is accurate within 1 or 3 psi. That was NOT the intent of this thread.
It was a simple question. Are these numbers NORMAL or MINIMUM? I am referring the numbers specified by FSM and Chilton.....NOT your opinion on the accuracy of gauges.
Any help is appreciated. Hopefully a person who works on Jeeps for a living or a person who understands the FSM will step up and offer the actual answer to the question.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer any more useful answers.
JG
Verify the gauge readings with a mechanical gauge before you start eyeballing the engine.
Totally possible the gauge sender is damaged / defective. It wouldn't be the first time somebody messed up the sender while changing the oil. Hell, I've done it myself.
Agreed. And I've broken a couple, usually when the damn filter's on there real tight.
I like to see around 15-20 hot idle, but as long as it's over 10 and not making any ugly noises, I'll run it. I like to see over 40 cold and over 40 hot running.
I saw one engine that had over 60 cold and over 50 hot running develop a severe mid throttle rod knock a few hundred miles after it was installed. It's all in how much crap is in the system and what has happened to it in the past, pressure doesn't tell the whole story.
Hell, you could put GL-5 in your engine (I would NOT recommend this) and get 100psi idle, but it'll be because the pump can't force it through the passages well enough and you will starve your bearings. You want the oil viscosity that results in maintaining good oil coverage/oil wedge on the bearing surfaces and also has a high enough flow rate to flush heated oil out and replace it with cooler oil from the sump, not the oil viscosity that gives you the highest pressure. These may or may not be the same thing.