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Oil Filter? suggestions?

lawsoncl said:
Those numbers for a Renix or HO? Just pointing out the Renix has Metric threads and the newer HOs switch to SAE threads.
Click to expand...

Go the dealer, buy this:

OIL FILTER METRIC TO SAE:


53007563AB


About $8, don't forget to remove the metric filter decal.
 
Just like the Napa is a rebadged Wix, isn't the K&N a rebadged Mobil with a hex tacked on the end?
 
I believe Mobil 1, K&N, and some others are all manufactured by the same parent company (Champion), but this does not necessarily mean they're otherwise the same, cince they do vary within the product lineup. The do appear to be pretty similar, though.

Doing some googling, I found an interesting thread on a Toyota forum, in which someone opened up a bunch of filters and evaluated them, and also provides a list of who makes what. Once again, Fram comes out worst:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763
 
joe_peters said:
Go the dealer, buy this:

OIL FILTER METRIC TO SAE:


53007563AB


About $8, don't forget to remove the metric filter decal.
Click to expand...

So what's this part - a replacement filter nipple? IIRC, the gasket dimensions are the same, so it's just the threads on the nipple that are different, right (M20-1.5 vice 7/8"-14 or so?)
 
5-90 said:
So what's this part - a replacement filter nipple? IIRC, the gasket dimensions are the same, so it's just the threads on the nipple that are different, right (M20-1.5 vice 7/8"-14 or so?)
Click to expand...

I think it is 3/4" on the HO.
 
5-90 said:
So what's this part - a replacement filter nipple? IIRC, the gasket dimensions are the same, so it's just the threads on the nipple that are different, right (M20-1.5 vice 7/8"-14 or so?)
Click to expand...

The details are at www.yuccaman.com IIRC.
 
gradon said:
Just like the Napa is a rebadged Wix, isn't the K&N a rebadged Mobil with a hex tacked on the end?
Click to expand...

No, too many real differences in both. Filter media and can thickness are way different.
 
I guess I just don't understand the obsession. Can thickness? We're not running 20w-50 in a big block Chevy racing engine @ 8000 revs. Capacity? Really just means that if your drainback valve lets the filter empty there's just that much more 'dry' time at startup. Plus we never even approach dirt-holding capacity at our change intervals. Synthetic vs glass vs paper media?

As long as a filter is good down to about 20 microns filtration, has decent flow, and a good anti-drainback valve, there just isn't any point spending a bunch of money. Even the cheapo Wally World Super Tech filters (made by Champion labs) meet this criteria. There is an immediate point of diminishing returns after those basic performance parameters are met, and spending a bunch of money for a perceived benefit to humor our anal-retentive side is just throwing $$ away.

Yeah, there are bad filters too (Fram Tough Guard). But it's about design and measurable performance parameters, not price.
 
X-defector said:
I guess I just don't understand the obsession. Can thickness? We're not running 20w-50 in a big block Chevy racing engine @ 8000 revs. Capacity? Really just means that if your drainback valve lets the filter empty there's just that much more 'dry' time at startup. Plus we never even approach dirt-holding capacity at our change intervals. Synthetic vs glass vs paper media?

As long as a filter is good down to about 20 microns filtration, has decent flow, and a good anti-drainback valve, there just isn't any point spending a bunch of money. Even the cheapo Wally World Super Tech filters (made by Champion labs) meet this criteria. There is an immediate point of diminishing returns after that point and spending a bunch of money for a perceived benefit to humor our anal-retentive side is just throwing $$ away.

Yeah, there are bad filters too (Fram Tough Guard). But it's about design and measurable performance parameters, not price.
Click to expand...

Go read about the cans that busted and took out an engine when the can failed due to over pressure, or poor seams let go and leaked under pressure, or week cans, or a failed pressure relief valve blew up the can, before you go throwing stones out their. I would never use paper for an oil filter, and 90% of the filters out their, especially all the cheapos use paper.

If you want to risk replacing the most expensive part of the Jeep to save $5 go ahead. "pay me now or pay me later" as the saying goes.

Dirt holding capacity? Depends on the prior user, and how much crap he let build up in the engine. I use the bigger filter for insurance, and since it is 2 times bigger, I can use it 2 times longer, thus cutting the per change cost in half. So who is being "anal-retentive" now?:D
 
Ecomike said:
Go read about the cans that busted and took out an engine when the can failed due to over pressure, or poor seams let go and leaked under pressure, or week cans, or a failed pressure relief valve blew up the can, before you go throwing stones out their. I would never use paper for an oil filter, and 90% of the filters out their, especially all the cheapos use paper.

If you want to risk replacing the most expensive part of the Jeep to save $5 go ahead. "pay me now or pay me later" as the saying goes.

Dirt holding capacity? Depends on the prior user, and how much crap he let build up in the engine. I use the bigger filter for insurance, and since it is 2 times bigger, I can use it 2 times longer, thus cutting the per change cost in half. So who is being "anal-retentive" now?:D
Click to expand...

Touche! Guess the bigger filters might make sense in that regard. I still think they could be trouble if they allow drain-back after sitting for a day or two and need to 're-fill' when the engine is started.

As far as can failures, seems that would have to be a seriously defective can or something wasn't functioning properly in the engine to build pressure that high. I have heard of it happening though.

I guess what I'm saying is that for me, $7 for a NAPA Gold filter is reasonable because it has the right construction features, performance specs, and quality to alleviate 'bad filter' concerns altogether, but that for me anything above and beyond that is overkill. Just my opinion, of course.

'Pay me now or pay me later'? Wasn't that Fram's slogan before they were purchased by Allied-Signal and turned to shite? Now that's some irony!
 
X-defector said:
Touche! Guess the bigger filters might make sense in that regard. I still think they could be trouble if they allow drain-back after sitting for a day or two and need to 're-fill' when the engine is started.

As far as can failures, seems that would have to be a seriously defective can or something wasn't functioning properly in the engine to build pressure that high. I have heard of it happening though.

I guess what I'm saying is that for me, $7 for a NAPA Gold filter is reasonable because it has the right construction features, performance specs, and quality to alleviate 'bad filter' concerns altogether, but that for me anything above and beyond that is overkill. Just my opinion, of course.

'Pay me now or pay me later'? Wasn't that Fram's slogan before they were purchased by Allied-Signal and turned to shite? Now that's some irony!
Click to expand...

Agreed (large filter drain back....trouble). That is why I use the K & N as it has an excellent anti drain back valve. They use silicone instead of rubber. I always see instant oil pressure with the oversized K & N, in spite of the fact that is mounted upside down. I only pay about $12 each. There are some horror stories on bobstheoilguy web site about seam construction that ruptures on some of the other filter cans, and since most of the private label brands are disguised Frams from China, I don't trust most of the other brands anymore. They are like a box of chocolates, you "never know what your gonna get", :D anymore.
 
I had a sudden 0psi issue in my AMC Javelin, running a Fram. Screw them, never again after opening the filter up and seeing the insides.

Since then, I've used (in my XJ)...
Baldwin B2. (the 'big' oil filter, used on several Ford applications, I looked up a 1980s Mustang 5.0). You can buy these from industrial equipment suppliers. Good luck finding them at Import Zone.
Wix/Napa Gold equivilant
Hastings equivilant, the same as Baldwin filters since Hastings Piston Ring Manufacturing sold out their filter operations to Baldwin.

...
If I'm desperate (I always have at least a spare filter and a bunch of oil in the garage)
Purolator equivilant is pretty good.

Most anything else (STP, Pennzoil, Quaker Hate, FilterPro, China*Mart, "whatever the quickie lube uses" Etc.) is almost always made by Champion Labs (not the spark plug people) and is marginally better than Fram, but nothing I'd recommend unless you plan on selling the vehicle in a year or so.
 
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