Oil consumption on replacement engine

[offroadordnance]

The valve tip edges may have burrs on them that can damage the new seals when you install them. If there are bad burrs, you might want to knock them down with a jewelers file leaving a slight chamfer on the edge only. Of course, collect any particles to keep them out of the engine.

If you hit the locks with penetrating oil like C54 suggests, you may want to squirt the stems to loosen up/ remove any varnish above the seals.

 

[cruiser54]

My seals came with a little sleeve that looked like one half of a gelatin capsule that you put over the stem, covering the collet grooves, to prevent seal damage.

 

[Shorty]

you can also stuff rope through the spark plug hole and coil it in the cylinder.just don't lose the end.

has always worked for me-- just run some twine or rope into the cylinder before you get it to TDC and let the rope keep the valve in place.

 

[OverlandZJ]

I really do appreciate the input guys, thanks.

On a tip i was told to remove the core in the Schrader valve on my compression tester hose. I unscrewed the bottom to find the core, and noticed what i unscrewed and have in my hand is the same adapter i saw on Summit and linked to earlier.

Also was told most shop mechanics dont take the time to turn down the regulator and typically have 125+psi while doing this job. So i'm going to crank up the pressure, if i see any movement or hear any escaping air i will add the rope in the cylinder.

Cruiser... while i was shopping for seals i noticed some included sleeves, now i know what they are for. My Fel-Pro kit did not include them, i'll make sure theres no burrs on the stems.

 

[cruiser54]

I really do appreciate the input guys, thanks.

On a tip i was told to remove the core in the Schrader valve on my compression tester hose. I unscrewed the bottom to find the core, and noticed what i unscrewed and have in my hand is the same adapter i saw on Summit and linked to earlier.

Also was told most shop mechanics dont take the time to turn down the regulator and typically have 125+psi while doing this job. So i'm going to crank up the pressure, if i see any movement or hear any escaping air i will add the rope in the cylinder.

Cruiser... while i was shopping for seals i noticed some included sleeves, now i know what they are for. My Fel-Pro kit did not include them, i'll make sure theres no burrs on the stems.

You can lube them up with grease or something and be gentle.

Shop air is less than your compression pressure you know. And alot less than the pressure when the charge is ignited!! No worries. Are you done yet?

 

[Mike Mike]

Ah Ha... found what i need.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67407/Application/?prefilter=1

The 4.0L has a 14mm thread on the plugs. (had to research the oem plug specs) This matches and allows an air nipple on the other end.

Now to see if i can find it local.

I've made several. I knock the porcelain out of an old spark plug and weld a pipe fitting on.

 

[OverlandZJ]

You can lube them up with grease or something and be gentle.

Shop air is less than your compression pressure you know. And alot less than the pressure when the charge is ignited!! No worries. Are you done yet?

Almost, first cylinder is done.

Tough to get my airline to the adapter behind the AC compressor, and i had a stubborn retainer. I learned not to tap it TOO HARD with the socket/mallet. When it breaks loose the retainers/spring will pop out. Fortunatly i had my hand over and was able to keep them from shooting across the yard.

I set the air comp regulator to 90psi.

 

[OverlandZJ]

All seals are replaced, push rods and rocker assemblies are on.

Anyone with a 94 FSM able to give me the torque value for the rocker arm to cylinder head bolts? Google seems to show 15ft/lbs for Renix and 21ft/lbs for OBDII... i'd like to get it straight from a FSM. Again i dont have access to my FSM's at the moment.. thanks.

 

[Talyn]

21 ft lbs

 

[OverlandZJ]

21 ft lbs

Thank You Sir..

Another Google result showed 26 according to a 94 FSM... didnt know what to believe.

That's alternating between both sides of the bridge.

 

[Talyn]

Check to see if there is a significant amount of oil in the intake manifold. Then check your valve cover breather elbows. The one with the small hole goes on the rear.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Check to see if there is a significant amount of oil in the intake manifold. Then check your valve cover breather elbows. The one with the small hole goes on the rear.

Pulled the throttle body and it looks clean inside intake, i swapped in this intake when i swapped the engine as it was much cleaner than the original both inside and out.

The airhat had traces of oil and dirt, just cleaned that. The aircleaner box is also newly replaced and clean, this Jeep had a K&N cold air setup and i went back to an OEM airbox to add a snorkel. I can see a small section where it appears oil has hit the K&N airfilter.

Just started it after letting it sit all night, both the CCV and tube to airbox from VC were off. Once it started warming i see a little white smoke out of both ends of vc. Progressily gets a bit heavier.

Installed the CCV line to rear of vc and all white smoke disappears, i assume thats the CCV line is vacuuming it into the intake?

The original front line to airbox has an oil soaked rubber elbow left over from the old engine.. i need to find a replacement.

Thoughts?

 

[Talyn]

Make sure that the rear line is clear.

Do you know what kind of rings are in the engine, or what his ring break in method was?

BTW, What color were the seals installed and what did you replace them with? Did the old ones look okay?

 

[OverlandZJ]

Rear line is clear. This is an oem assembly, pulled from a partout. Sorry if i confused you..

The old vg seals were hardened, replaced with Fel-Pro's.