Off the stands!

[RamlebXJ]

Going to take the jeep for its first run since I brought it home tomorrow. Just to see what the difference in power, see what blows up, starts leaking ect. ect. ect.

Radiator is leaking, thought the head gasket I just put in was bad but that was not the case. Just air in the system, after I got the air out the cooling system took another 1/2 gallon of water! Then I noticed the green liquid coming out my radiator . Not bad, just weeping... after 24 hours there was a small puddle, nothing serious. SO now that needs to be replaced... so should I just get a stock replacement, or convert it to an open system?

Now a buddy has a 90 xj, brakes are really mushy and when you step on the brake it sounds like a vaccum leak. His rotors are good, new pads, brake fluid is good, no fluid leaking, only thing I can think of is his drums shoes might be worn to hell... any opinions on what it might be?

 

[lawsoncl]

I'd order the later model radiator and convert to the open setup myself. Radiatorbarn.com has decent quality all-metal radiators.

You friend likely has a bad brake booster, assuming he doesn't have that crappy ABS.

 

[Matthew Currie]

When you say brakes are "mushy," do you mean a low pedal, or numb feeling with high pedal effort? A bad booster will not cause a low pedal, but loss of boost will make the pedal feel hard. If the pedal is spongy or soft, first suspect insufficient bleeding. If the pedal sinks slowly under pressure, the master cylinder. If you hear hissing when you push the pedal, that's not a good sign, and probably means a bad booster. If your booster is leaking badly, it probably won't be able to keep up with demand. Try, with engine at idle, pumping the brake a few times. If the booster is bad, you'll feel the loss of boost pretty quickly. It may also change idle speed when you stab it.

 

[RamlebXJ]

ill check with him on the idle speed when he hits the brakes. It sounds like the booster, since the pedal had no firmness to it whatsoever.

 

[Matthew Currie]

ill check with him on the idle speed when he hits the brakes. It sounds like the booster, since the pedal had no firmness to it whatsoever.

Again, though, let's make sure terminology is understood. Booster failure = no boost = hard, high pedal with ineffective stopping. Good booster produces lower, softer pedal with better stopping.

Quick check for operative booster: Pump pedal a few times with engine off, until all residual boost, if any, is gone. Now hold foot on brake, and start engine. Pedal should sink when engine starts.

 

[RamlebXJ]

well there is a loud continuous hiss when pedal is applied, but the pedal drops, its an issue since it his DD and bad brakes is a dangerous thing for a DD. I haven't been able to get a good look at it, ill try to catch up with him this week.

I know I need new brakes, my jeep will stop but I think its relying on 100% drums, since theres no signs of wear whatsoever on the rusted rotors up front. So i'll be in the hole about $200 for brake rotors, pads, shoes, springs, and rebuild kits all the way around. The e-brake is in good condition at least, the PO told me he replaced it right before he set it up.

I tried some one tire fire burnouts with the sled today, and I was suprised it actually broke loose. Before I tuned it, it would barely go under its own power. I got it up to 55 on the street behind my house and it got up & rocketed. Warmed up to about 190-200 and stuck there, oil pressure was at a even 40 after warming up for 30 min. Coolant level didn't drop a considerable ammount, and the oil in the top end was nice & golden. Now I just need brakes, tires, and a windshield and this beast will be street legal!