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NP242

The original shifter and 231 legend was retained and the guy slotted out the console for the longer travel for the 242.
go to a u-pull-it or junkyard and get a shift bezel from a pre-97 cherokee that has a 242. they are not easy to find, but they are around. the bezel shouldn't cost more than a few bucks.

I have never had a vehicle with full time operation and without the 242 legend I don't know what position the TC really is in when shifted.

The shift pattern is 2WD > 4 high part-time > 4 high full-time > Neutral > 4 low part-time. without the indicator bezel, the best way to make sure you are in full-time 4wd is to shift the tc into neutral, then ease the shifter forward.
 
The shift pattern is 2WD > 4 high part-time > 4 high full-time > Neutral > 4 low part-time.

i found a pic for you:

standard.jpg
 
That's why I was questioning the previous owners decision to make the swap. I want to remove the spool anyway and replace it with a Detroit but what advantage would this be? An ARB was pondered on, but their pricing is getting totally out of hand. I would imagine twin ARB's with the fulltime set-up would be the best, right? Thankyou for the info! Doofus
 
With a spool in back and a detroit in front, full-time is pointless. . .
very true. i must've missed that he has a spool when i first read his details. :dunno:
 
yeah, it's the shits especially when making slow turns out of the driveway etc. Currie says it won't hurt anything with this big rearend, but would a Detroit back there make it any better? I'm also asumming that the 242 won't be really appreciated until I have open diff operation, right? Doofus
 
With a spool in back and a detroit in front, full-time is pointless. . .
yeah, wow... thanks for calling me on this one. i'm really guilty of not paying close enough attention to the details he pvided.

this is very much the wrong axle setup for a full-time 4wd. front should be open or selectable. rear can be anything except spooled, i.e. open, ls, auto-locker, or selectable.
 
yeah, it's the shits especially when making slow turns out of the driveway etc. Currie says it won't hurt anything with this big rearend, but would a Detroit back there make it any better? I'm also asumming that the 242 won't be really appreciated until I have open diff operation, right? Doofus
whenever the vehicle turns, the inside and outside wheels travel at dfferent speeds. because of the spool, something has to give. you must wear out tires like mad? and even tho everything is upgraded and heavy-duty, this must put incredible strain on the axles.

the detroit would be better, but i really don't like mine. its locking behavior is unpredictable. sometimes it locks and behaves like your spool does in tight turns like coming out of the driveway, the wheel binds and tires chirp. if i had it do do over (and i probably will), i would either get a limited slip or an ARB.
 
yeah, it's the shits especially when making slow turns out of the driveway etc. Currie says it won't hurt anything with this big rearend, but would a Detroit back there make it any better? I'm also asumming that the 242 won't be really appreciated until I have open diff operation, right? Doofus

Changing out the Rear Spool for a Detroit won't really make it any better. The front Detroit is the biggest factor defeating full-time.

yeah, wow... thanks for calling me on this one. i'm really guilty of not paying close enough attention to the details he pvided.

this is very much the wrong axle setup for a full-time 4wd. front should be open or selectable. rear can be anything except spooled, i.e. open, ls, auto-locker, or selectable.

For full-time, the ideal would be twin ARBs (or some other selectable if you like that flavor).

On my DD XJ with a NP242, I compromised, and went with a Detroit in the back, and a Tru-Trac up front. In full-time it feels about the same as my daughters XJ with open diffs. The Detroit even with an auto is a little ill-mannered on the street in 2wd not "bad" (compared to my manual CJ7 with a Detroit) or "unpredictable" to me. That said, my wife hates driving them both so, she has twin ARBs in her TJ.
 
Do you mind me asking how much you paid for the SYE and driveshaft from Tom Woods?

I bought directly from the Tom Wood website. The price for my 242 kit was $900 + $5 packaging + $5 u-joint strap kit. There is a $30 less expensive option as well if you pick a lesser style of driveshaft slip yoke. Upon return of your old output shaft and rear retainer you get a $400 credit back. I didn't realize he sold his kits through other outlets until after I made my purchase. I later found it for $849 on the 4x4 Group Buy website. Not sure which style of driveshaft that includes though...

I'm still happy with my purchase. I called and spoke to Tom prior to my purchase, during my purchase, during my install, and after my install for help with my pinion angle. Every time he was very helpful and informative. I'm guessing he'd probably be the same way even if you made your purchase through 4x4 Group Buy, but his expertise and my lack of guilt when taking advantage of it was worth the $50 in my opinion.
 
I feel I kinda sabotaged this thread, but the info gained from you guys has been much appreciated! My wife and I are on our way to Hawaii for 21 days to celebrate our retirements. (me- 30 years as a catskinner she- 30 years as a school teacher). I'm looking forward to getting back on the site when we return so as to garner more info and share some of my own. I am going to sell a pickup I have so as to purchase a set of ARB'S for my XJ and install the 2lo kit which from what I read here is the best way to go with my rig. Thanks again 'yall and Aloha!! Doofus
 
30 years as a what?
 
the instructions that came with my locker said to NEVER use part time. Kinda makes sense... it is like stepping on and off the gas as it transfers power front and rear on and off.

I used to love my 242 in snow. But ever sense I got the locker up front and LS in back, I leave it in part time.
 
the instructions that came with my locker said to NEVER use part time..
i'm pretty sure you mean the instructions say never use FULL time.

it is like stepping on and off the gas as it transfers power front and rear on and off..
as i understand it, this only applies to the front.
 
I'm about to lift my xj to about 7" and going to install a SYE and cv drvieshaft. my np242 has about 230,000 miles on it and I was wondering if it was a good transfer case or should I just install a different one?

Have you replaced the chain? Mine was streched soo much it came out when I drained the fluid! And that was at 100k.

I guess it depends on if you want 4x4 on the pavement. I do, so I would replace the chain, oil pickup, clean it out, or if I had the time and the bucks I would pull it out, and put a master kit in it.

I like my 242 as I am on the pavement more than I am off road.
 
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