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NP242 Front Shaft Slop - information needed

Orange,
I ran out of time today. Will try tightening that nut tomorrow IF i can get time to get dirty. I took RCPPhx at his word that it wouldn't help, but I guess I'll have a go. Thursday if not tomorrow.
Luckily, with the shaft out, I am not getting vibes and am no longer worried about driving it around.

Next up:

Rebuild kit questions...
I'll search around first, later tonight, but if anyone feels like linking to a good thread or to a source, please do.

tightening the nut probably isn't going to help, it just holds the yoke onto the shaft. Give it a go, maybe you get lucky.

Here's our very own Opie with disasembly pictures. The 242 is very similar to the 231 when it comes to taking it apart. ust the differential assembly and a locking pin are about the only differences.

http://www.opiebennett.com/images/Jeep/D4-ford9-swap/Day 15/np231.htm
 
Just stumbled across this thread and thought I'd share my $0.02...

I've only opened a transfer case once (SYE install, 231) and did it with it in the jeep... Based on the slop you've described, you will likely want to replace both the front output bearing and the front output shaft/yoke itself. The in/out slop isn't ideal, but I noticed the same with my 231 (doesn't cause me any grief), but the side-to-side slop (i.e. perpendicular to the axis of rotation) is a very bad thing. It could just be the bearing, but if the problem's been going on long enough, it very well may have damaged the front output shaft as well. Closely examine the surface upon which the front output shaft contacts the inner bearing surface to look for evidence of scarring/distortion.

Also, the bearing that is pressed into the rear half of the case may be a culprit in this as well... Given the minute dimensions we're working with here, it may be difficult to answer this question but here it goes - does it feel as though there is slop right where the output shaft exits the transfer case, or further back (with it "hinging" on the front half of the case)? Kinda hard to phrase this question, so let me know if you need clarification.

Bottom line: there might be some fore/aft slop even in a healthy 231/242. The up/down/side-to-side slop is a very, very bad thing in any rotating assembly.

I was also *extremely* intimidated by the prospect of opening my transfer case, as it was the farthest I've ever gone into automotive work... But honestly, I'd do it again 100 times without a single reservation. Hell, next time I'll just pull the whole case out of the Jeep due to the fact that it'd be easier to work on.
 
Thanks, 87manche! That will be great reference.

------

And everyone here: take a minute to appreciate the affordability of parts in the USA.

A scrapyard NP242, unknown condition, is $475.00 NZD.
Bearing kits are in the $300-400 NZD range.
Looks like I'm mail-ordering from the states and waiting for the long shipping time!
 
anthrax323- Thanks for the input.
It *does* feel like the slop is right where the shaft exits the case. And i'm bummed to hear you say what has been in the back of my head - that the shaft may be damaged. But with the cost of the shaft and the extra work involved, I am going to gamble that it will be OK once I pull it and not pre-order a shaft. Even if it IS slightly damaged, I will probably put it back in, knowing full well I'll have to re-do it later. But money is tight, and I drive the jeep every weekday...
 
Of course...and I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings...it could be just the front drive shaft in your case. Removing the front driveshaft could mean tc problems...or ds problems. You might want to closely check front ds u-joints and the slip spline before spending $$ on the tc.

I've chased this enough to eliminate the front ds...have a new Tom Woods shaft, so I'm pretty sure it's the tc.

Luck
 
THE ISSUE WAS THE YOKE BOLT BEING LOOSE.
(my # 3 in the opening post)

Tightened the bolt holding the yoke to the output shaft, and there is no longer any wiggle in any direction.

NOTE for those finding this thread:
The play FELT as if it was the shaft, and the feel with one hand on the case also seemed like internals. The dust shield was also moving with it. It was not obvious that it was only the yoke moving. Keep this in mind if you are troubleshooting a similar problem.

Thank you (Orange and the others) for reminding me to at least try it - always best to hear opinions from many sources.
 
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