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No start is vexing me!!!

techedtchr said:
Fuel pump is not blowing fuses. I'm not sure if that repair shop knew what they were doing. I just took the plunge and purchased a $35 fuel pressure gauge. I have nearly 50 psi at the Schrader valve on the rail with the key on and engine off. That tells me fuel delivery isn't necessarily the issue. Now leaning toward ignition/computer/sensor issues. Fuel pump is getting power and I'm getting fuel pressure. Also smell gas from the tailpipe. So, either have flooded cylinders or some kind of system fault. I won't have a cranking assistant for a while so I can check for spark. Thanks for checking up on me.
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If you smell gas at the tail pipe it may be running too rich, too much fuel, which can be a ruptured fuel pressure regulator diaphragm or stuck open fuel injector(s) (OBD-II, question, does it have a FPR at the fuel rail, like the Renix?), or a stuck closed IAC valve in the throttle body. You can (at least in the older jeeps?) hold the gas peddle to the floor and crank to dry out a flooded engine (not sure about OBD-II 1997?) !!!!!!

Then when it starts, see if it will run at partial throttle and only die at idle? If that happens check the vacuum line to the FPR for gas. You can also check the spark plugs for excess gas (flooding).
 
I think the CPS is the larger issue. The point I was making is that it seems like the injectors are firing. Without spark however, can't do anything with that fuel :)
 
Ecomike said:
a ruptured fuel pressure regulator diaphragm
Click to expand...
I would have thought "WOW, this is a long shot" but this was part of my issue on my RENIX MJ. Weeks of chasing it, 2 CPS's, til I found gas piddling out of the "wrong side" of the regulator on the rail side. I replaced with a newish junkyard FPR and o-ring. Bingo.

techedtchr said:
I think the CPS is the larger issue. The point I was making is that it seems like the injectors are firing. Without spark however, can't do anything with that fuel :)
Click to expand...

...but on this I'd have to agree. Replace it.
 
Well guys, got the lower bolt out and was about ready to celebrate when...I tried to get the upper bolt out. It's at quite an angle and I couldn't quite get my maze of extensions and swivels to get at the right angle. This, combined with a rusty bolt, meant that I probably stripped the bolt. So, time to get a shop involved...that or if some Jeep fan in the northeast MD/southeast PA area wouldn't mind giving me a hand :)
 
techedtchr said:
Well guys, got the lower bolt out and was about ready to celebrate when...I tried to get the upper bolt out. It's at quite an angle and I couldn't quite get my maze of extensions and swivels to get at the right angle. This, combined with a rusty bolt, meant that I probably stripped the bolt. So, time to get a shop involved...that or if some Jeep fan in the northeast MD/southeast PA area wouldn't mind giving me a hand :)
Click to expand...

I wonder if it has the wrong bolt in there. Tried different sockets? The short wobble extensions on the end help. Also PB blaster soak for hours before trying to turn it.
 
Use a 6 point socket, and if necessary have a helper stand on the tire and guide the socket onto the bolts from the engine compartment. In your case, one of those Bolt Out stripped bolt/nut remover sockets might still work.
 
6 point 7/16s shallow 1/4" drive socket. i can swap out my CPS in just under 10 minutes. i use a bunch of 1/4" drive extensions since they fit into the tight spots better and use a couple wobble bars and universals to get to the top from just in front of the t case area. then adapt to 3/8s or 1/2 to get the leverage.
sounds like CPS for sure.
 
U-joints are nearly useless, PITA, when using 30" of extensions IMHO, I prefer to use woblers all the way. I have done it with 3/8" woblers and 30-36" of net length extensions.
 
I found on mine it was easy as pie when i dropped my crossmember down and went from it under the jeep.Drop it down about 2" with a floorjack and it is right there.IN and OUT real fast.Longer to get all the stuff out and cleaned up and back in the tool box than removing the CPS itself.
 
scottmcneal said:
I found on mine it was easy as pie when i dropped my crossmember down and went from it under the jeep.Drop it down about 2" with a floorjack and it is right there.IN and OUT real fast.Longer to get all the stuff out and cleaned up and back in the tool box than removing the CPS itself.
Click to expand...

It is not really as hard as some people make it sound, if you use the right approach!!!
 
True, but if he has a bad bolt already, THIS may be what he needs for getting to it.Thinking easy and cheap thats all.I now have a drop on my jeep cause i don't have the money for a sye and i can see it real easy now.
Just trying to help him get it done without using a shop.
 
Was this problem ever solved? I am having similar issue. I have Spark, and Fuel but it will not run. Unless the cylinders and plugs are dry using starting fluid with the fuel pump relay removed.
 
Dont forget to check the cam position sensor. This gets overlooked alot and casues as much no starts as the crack position sensor. When the cam position sensor fails, it too will interupt the signal to the ECU and trigger the auto shut off.

The condition you are describing was the same I was experiencing in my 93. I replaced the CPS and it still died like yours. Tested the relays, they were fine, fuses were fine, had power to every sensor and component. Until I went and check for spark. Had power to the distributor, had spark but it was weak and intermitent.

Once I checked the cam position sensor I discovered it was loosing it's signal. The cam position sensor does two things. Tells the ECU when the engine is at TDC and sends a signal that fires the coil.

If for some reason this sensor malfunctions, it can result in intermitent ignition problems, stalls, crank no fire, and your jeep is DOA.

Pop a new sensor in it and it should fire back up. But as a precaution I would also replace the CPS just incase. Cheap insurance and less expensive then calling a tow truck.
 
hoodboogie said:
Was this problem ever solved? I am having similar issue. I have Spark, and Fuel but it will not run. Unless the cylinders and plugs are dry using starting fluid with the fuel pump relay removed.
Click to expand...

Year?????

Your last sentence was any thing but clear? Are you saying it floods out?

You need spark at the right time (CPS and ECU, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor and ignition coil, plus ICM on Renix), the right amount of fuel on the intake stroke (injectors, ECU signal, CPS, Map sensor, CTS and IAT sensor data) and the right amount of AIR (IAC control and ECU and B+ relay working)!!!!
 
Last edited:
Sorry it's been a while. Between my job and grad school I have not had time to mess with the Jeep much. I also am having a hard time with money. I'm not sure if I'm going to finish fixing it. I also would be worried about going on a long camping trip and having this thing die on me even if I got it fixed. Given its age I'm sure other things will come up. So, I'm probably going to put it up for sale. Replace the CPS and I'm pretty sure it'll fire right up. I'll put a listing in the for sale section if there is one. Known issues:

  • Door trim on passenger side is loose
  • A/C compressor works but makes noise intermittently
  • CPS needs replaced, lower bolt is out but needs upper removed. Would replace both bolts to be safe when reinstalling new CPS.
  • Paint is in the condition one would expect for a 14 year old vehicle, a bit worn
Interior is in good shape, radio and all gauges/lights work
Fuel pressure good, new spark plugs
Aux. trans cooler installed, wired for trailer towing, Class III hitch w/equipment for weight distribution, tows 5000 lbs.
BF Goodrich tires in good condition
 
All righty, everyone. Gave the Jeep a reprieve and decided to have the shop look at it. CPS is being replaced, will update once I know something.
 
Case closed - CPS replaced and the Jeep runs great! Thanks so much for your help - you saved me a chunk o' change here - $80 for the part and $60 in shop labor and we're off to the races again!
 
techedtchr said:
Case closed - CPS replaced and the Jeep runs great! Thanks so much for your help - you saved me a chunk o' change here - $80 for the part and $60 in shop labor and we're off to the races again!
Click to expand...

There are two "groups" of XJ owners.

1. Ones that HAVE already replaced their crankshaft position sensors

2. Others that WILL be replacing their crank sensors in the future!
 
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