NO HEADLIGHTS!!!??? Lotsa new parts.

[Indyclassic]

If you have a relay in the FOG 1 position and a Fog Lamp switch, you must of had fog lamps at one time (unless someone attempted to install the system after delivery) . The system needs FOG 2 as well as fog lamps to function.

There is no relay for high beams. High/Low beams go through the beam select switch. There is a possibility that the Headlamp Delay Module (HDM) is defective. Low beams go through the HDM, High beam does not. You may want to replace the HDM. It's located under the dash by the headlamp switch. Examine the HDM connector pin sockets and pins before replacement.

I hear you saying no relay for high beams but my fog 1 clicks audibly when my high beams go on. I can touch it and feel it functioning. If I remove it and flip on high beams they still go on but without the relay there is no clicking. Relay replaced and the high beams act upon it. It certainly is in that circuit.

 

[Sidewinder CC]

I hear you saying no relay for high beams but my fog 1 clicks audibly when my high beams go on. I can touch it and feel it functioning. If I remove it and flip on high beams they still go on but without the relay there is no clicking. Relay replaced and the high beams act upon it. It certainly is in that circuit.

Do you have fog lights?

Why are you worried about the fog light relay clicking when the high beams work without the relay being installed.

The #1 fog light relay control coil will activate when the headlamp switch is pulled to on, and when the beam select switch is placed in HIGH beam.

Headlamps High Beam does not rely on the fog lamp relay, only the fog lamps rely on this relay. If in doubt, pull it out. See if it helps you problem.

 

[Indyclassic]

No fog ligts. I'm not worried about the relay. I'm trying to understand a circuit that I have to trace in an unheated garage in the dead of winter. That's why I worded it an "interesting point of fact."

As I said the headlamps come on with or w/out the relay. Any lamp should work w/out its relay - it should just stay open I would assume unless the relay itself is required to complete the circuit. I don't really understand how they are wired yet.

Either way I'm confident that this is not the prob. I'm finally out and actually under the hood this moment for first time in days.

 

[mnoeltne]

When my 2001 headlights had a problem it was the connectors right at the headlight bulbs. They had corroded badly. When I would put my test light on it I had voltage and I thought I was good, but I was just pushing the pointy test probe through the crud. I cleaned them well (ended up using some Brasso brass cleaner!), and voila! everything worked again. Oh, and I put them back together with dielectric grease to keep it from happening again.

 

[Indyclassic]

Well. Wasn't getting power at connector at lamp but when I opened the door on that connector I saw that the black (ground?) wire was broken off inside the connector. It broke where the insulation stops and bare wire is crimped in the connector.

With a sigh of relief I figured that this was my problem and an easy fix. I put the headlamp back into the connector and jumped the ground wire to several different grounds including the where the connector meets the tab on the lamp (with the headlight switch pulled on). Still no lights. WTF?.

I'm the king of perfect storm/multi-causal car probs but really?! This ground wire was completely disconnected inside that connector! It certainly wasn't completing the circuit. How could this not be it? Every connector is corroded. Every one. I did clean and sand the ground in the fender well (and cleaned the loop ends of the wires too). I used emery paper to clean inside the lamp connectors as well.

The connector at the airbox was clean inside looks like something had been living in the wires but the connection to connection so seems sound.

One question I have is which end goes directly to the connectors for the lamps - is it the male or female end of that connector that directly connects to the lamps?

I want to test to see if I'm getting power just passed the lamps connectors and/or the other side of the connector. I assume I just touch multi-meter leads to one of the black and one of the red wires on either half of the connector. I'm not sure which black or red wires are lamps. There are several of both color. (Or at least two)

 

[Indyclassic]

Well after testing here's what I found: The lowbeam power wire is the violet wire (at some points in the circuit this lowbeam current is carried on a violet/white wire. As a point of reference I am tracing the circuit from the lamps to the battery looking for the point that current is not delivered).

This violet wire carries lowbeam current from the hi beam select switch to the fusebox to the connector by air box(C106) to the lamps. Current seems to enter the hi beam select switch carried on a light green or Lg/wh wire. There are two harness connectors on the back of this hi beam select switch. I am assuming that the lower, smaller if the two is the one I'm supposed to be working with here (pls correct me if I'm wrong). It has two red/or wires going into one of four slots, on light green, one lg/w, one violet. According to the schematic current comes from the battery side of the circuit into this switch on the lg or lg/w wire and the exits the switch torwards the lamps on the violet wire. Again, pls correct me if in wrong.


I'm getting no power on the violet wire at the headlamp connectors, no power at the connector in the fender well near the air box (hereafter refered to as C106 per the schematic), no power at the fuse box inside the cab. The next component in line working my way toward the battery is the above mentioned hi-beam select switch (some call this the multi-switch). This is the switch on the column. As I stated, my belief is that current comes into the hi beam switch on a light green wire and then carries on towards the lamps on a violet wire.

By this logic my test light should show current at the hi beam switch connector on both the violet AND the lg wires. Power in/power out. My test lite shows current at thus connector on the lg but NOT the violet wire!

Is it true that the path of current is into that switch on the light green wire and out of that switch on the violet wire? Are my deductions correct? Am I thinking this thru correctly? If its this connector what could be wrong with it? It a factory harness and kind of a pain in the ass to replace.

 

[Indyclassic]

Additionally I should add that I have back probed that connector I get the same results with my test light. Also my test light lights on both of the green wires on the connector that is to say the light green wire and the lite green/white wire.