rgunn1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Disclaimer: I am a nOOB... when it comes to XJs. I am, however, fully competent about 4x4 vehicles and the fundamentals of modifying them. I'm sure questions very similiar to the one's you are about to read have been presented here but, well... mine are special.
I usually hate these types of posts, but I'm considering purchasing an XJ for a decent DD / mild trail rig and I know NOTHING about XJs. I've been talking to a few people on another forum, but I'm hoping to get a little more input here. I mainly just want to see how your experiences might relate to my line of thinking in this matter.
I want to run the smallest amount of lift possible in an attempt to keep the vehicle as friendly as possible on the road and keep the COG down for on and off road purposes. I'm not sure if I want to run a 33 or a 35... it all depends on how much lift I'll need and how it'll affect the handling characteristics. I plan to do MAJOR cutting (not trimming) front and rear and. I was told there are issues with the fender wells/inner fenders out back, but that shouldn't be a problem that can't be taken care of with a little body work. Here's my dilemma:
5-6 inches of lift: I like the idea of running a long arm kit due to the better articulation and ride characteristics, I'm just thinking this will be too tall for my desire... though with this amount of lift, I'll have no problem clearing 33s or 35s.
4.5 inches of lift: This looks like the best comprimise from what I can tell so far. I know I can fit 33s and I'm pretty sure I can pull off 35s. The problem here is that there aren't any long arm kits (as far as I know) for this amount of lift, and from what I've been told, short arms will make the ride quality absolute crap due to the control arm angle. BUT, will the Rubicon Express long arms made for the 5.5 kit work with a 4.5 (or 3.5?) inch spring? I'm not sure how this system is designed. The issues that may come into play here are 1)Will the length of these long arms push the front end out to the point of causing steering interference with either the trac-bar or the drag link? and 2) if so, what might be the complications of moving the mounting point of the frame/unibody end of the control arms backwards to compensate for this? I have also been looking at the Rubicon Express control arm drop brackets. Would this be a better solution to the problem?
3-3.5 inches of lift: I like this option for several reasons. One being that I can keep the suspension geometry as close to factory as possible... not to mention it will be the cheapest option. This will keep the COG lowest. The complications that arise here only "seem" to involve fitting the tires. I'm almost absolutely sure I can fit the 33s with this amount of lift, but 35s may be difficult. With either tire size, up-travel will be significantly limited... possibly even to the point where the bumpstops get a workout even on the road. I have no problem with cutting back a little on off road articulation with a well designed bump-stop setup, but I will not tolerate any suspension contact under on-road driving conditions, with few if any exceptions.
I have several issues causing me to be indecisive regarding tire size which I'll be more than happy to discuss, but it's not really related to the questions I've presented here. In the past I've always designed /arranged my suspension setups to accommodate a particular tire size. This situation may just require me to run a 33 to fit my best lift option... I'm just really bad about wanting to go bigger.
Once again, sorry for the long post. I just want to figure out exactly what I'm getting into before I decide to take this little project on. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Robie
EDIT:I've been looking at some other threads (on this forum and others) and felt the need to clarify a few things:
1. While it might look "cool," flex is over-rated. Even if articulation IS your thing, it's not my main concern. Lockers will get you twice as far as long arms and squishy springs.
2. When I said "fender trimming," this is to the extent that I had in mind, with the exception that this will be a DD so I'll finish the edges off smoother, add a trim and, if I have to cut as far forward as he did, shave the reflector.
:bigthumb
I usually hate these types of posts, but I'm considering purchasing an XJ for a decent DD / mild trail rig and I know NOTHING about XJs. I've been talking to a few people on another forum, but I'm hoping to get a little more input here. I mainly just want to see how your experiences might relate to my line of thinking in this matter.
I want to run the smallest amount of lift possible in an attempt to keep the vehicle as friendly as possible on the road and keep the COG down for on and off road purposes. I'm not sure if I want to run a 33 or a 35... it all depends on how much lift I'll need and how it'll affect the handling characteristics. I plan to do MAJOR cutting (not trimming) front and rear and. I was told there are issues with the fender wells/inner fenders out back, but that shouldn't be a problem that can't be taken care of with a little body work. Here's my dilemma:
5-6 inches of lift: I like the idea of running a long arm kit due to the better articulation and ride characteristics, I'm just thinking this will be too tall for my desire... though with this amount of lift, I'll have no problem clearing 33s or 35s.
4.5 inches of lift: This looks like the best comprimise from what I can tell so far. I know I can fit 33s and I'm pretty sure I can pull off 35s. The problem here is that there aren't any long arm kits (as far as I know) for this amount of lift, and from what I've been told, short arms will make the ride quality absolute crap due to the control arm angle. BUT, will the Rubicon Express long arms made for the 5.5 kit work with a 4.5 (or 3.5?) inch spring? I'm not sure how this system is designed. The issues that may come into play here are 1)Will the length of these long arms push the front end out to the point of causing steering interference with either the trac-bar or the drag link? and 2) if so, what might be the complications of moving the mounting point of the frame/unibody end of the control arms backwards to compensate for this? I have also been looking at the Rubicon Express control arm drop brackets. Would this be a better solution to the problem?
3-3.5 inches of lift: I like this option for several reasons. One being that I can keep the suspension geometry as close to factory as possible... not to mention it will be the cheapest option. This will keep the COG lowest. The complications that arise here only "seem" to involve fitting the tires. I'm almost absolutely sure I can fit the 33s with this amount of lift, but 35s may be difficult. With either tire size, up-travel will be significantly limited... possibly even to the point where the bumpstops get a workout even on the road. I have no problem with cutting back a little on off road articulation with a well designed bump-stop setup, but I will not tolerate any suspension contact under on-road driving conditions, with few if any exceptions.
I have several issues causing me to be indecisive regarding tire size which I'll be more than happy to discuss, but it's not really related to the questions I've presented here. In the past I've always designed /arranged my suspension setups to accommodate a particular tire size. This situation may just require me to run a 33 to fit my best lift option... I'm just really bad about wanting to go bigger.
Once again, sorry for the long post. I just want to figure out exactly what I'm getting into before I decide to take this little project on. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Robie
EDIT:I've been looking at some other threads (on this forum and others) and felt the need to clarify a few things:
1. While it might look "cool," flex is over-rated. Even if articulation IS your thing, it's not my main concern. Lockers will get you twice as far as long arms and squishy springs.
2. When I said "fender trimming," this is to the extent that I had in mind, with the exception that this will be a DD so I'll finish the edges off smoother, add a trim and, if I have to cut as far forward as he did, shave the reflector.
:bigthumb