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New timing chain set, but rotor won't turn when crank does.

Just a hot starter if you cranked for more than 30 seconds.
Oh and if you got spark the CPS is fine.
Time to check fuel pressure and look at the picture I posted and make sure you got 12 volts on the fuel pump ballast connection.
 
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Help: '91 turns over but won't start

Changed the title to better describe what my problem is now since I already fixed the "timing chain issue".
Anyway,
So the smoke was from the starter? Is that a good thing? The neg batt cable was warm to the touch too. I did check the pressure at the rail. I pressed in on the bleeder valve and gas sprayed out. I do not have a pressure tester, so I can't tell how much is there, but it did come out fast. I also sprayed some quickstart into the intake, still no go.
So, if I have spark it is not the CPS, right? Is there another sensor that would create a no-start situation like I have?
I am about at my wits end here.
Very puzzled,
Hoddie.
 
Re: Help: '91 turns over but won't start

hoddie said:
Changed the title to better describe what my problem is now since I already fixed the "timing chain issue".
Anyway,
So the smoke was from the starter? Is that a good thing? The neg batt cable was warm to the touch too. I did check the pressure at the rail. I pressed in on the bleeder valve and gas sprayed out. I do not have a pressure tester, so I can't tell how much is there, but it did come out fast. I also sprayed some quickstart into the intake, still no go.
So, if I have spark it is not the CPS, right? Is there another sensor that would create a no-start situation like I have?
I am about at my wits end here.
Very puzzled,
Hoddie.
No other sensor could cause a no-start with quickstart. Your timing is most likely 180 degrees off.
Timing mark on damper and #1 plug in dist line up
This happens twice on on each revolution of the crank. One time for exhaust and again at compression. The Dist only turns once for every two turns of the damper/crank.
So with the damper on the mark the valves on number 1 must both be closed.
Of course this all depends on if you have the timing chain on right.
 
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OKay, this could be the answer to the problem. I know I turned the dampner to the 0 mark and droped inthe distributor. The rotor is at #1 when I put it at 0 mark. But I will confirm that it is at TDC compression just to be sure. If it was 180 degs out, would it cause a string smell of gas back through the intake? I know the gears are on right, I have had alot of practice doing those. My '82 CJ sat for 2 months while I figured out that issue. Finally found that the gears were out by 90 degs. That was frustrating. I should have thought about the whole 180 deg thing. Doh!
Is it possible my remote start could be causing this? Maybe the kill-switch?
Hoddie
 
hoddie said:
OKay, this could be the answer to the problem. I know I turned the dampner to the 0 mark and droped inthe distributor. The rotor is at #1 when I put it at 0 mark. But I will confirm that it is at TDC compression just to be sure. If it was 180 degs out, would it cause a string smell of gas back through the intake? I know the gears are on right, I have had alot of practice doing those. My '82 CJ sat for 2 months while I figured out that issue. Finally found that the gears were out by 90 degs. That was frustrating. I should have thought about the whole 180 deg thing. Doh!
Is it possible my remote start could be causing this? Maybe the kill-switch?
Hoddie
Every time you post you add something else :gonnablow
But no the kill switch or remote would not keep it from firing on Quickstart.
 
Sorry about that. I will be checking the dist tomorow.
I don't mean to get you mad, you have been the best source of info yet. Don't leave me now!
Hoddie.
 
hoddie said:
Sorry about that. I will be checking the dist tomorow.
I don't mean to get you mad, you have been the best source of info yet. Don't leave me now!
Hoddie.
No broblem, after all your the one doing all the work.
 
Checked it all out today and still no go. I pulled the dist and the #1 plug. Rotated the crank until I felt pressure in the plug hole. Then I lined up the dist and droped it in. The rotor would not turn to the mark I made for #1 on the body. The 0 mark on the dampner is set to the mark on the cover. Now what? I noticed that my dampner was not on all the way too while I was under there. If it is not seated all the way, could the crank turn throwing the marks off? It may not be seated on the key of the crank shaft. It looks like it could go another 1/8 of an inch. It was hard seating it on the crank. I tried to pull it off again and snapped 2 of the bolts off in the dampner, dammit! Now I have to drill them out, get some stronger bolts and pull it again. If this doesn't work, I am going to pull the whole cover and gear set and start from scratch.
I do have fuel in the cylinders becuase I can smell it on the plug when I pulled it. I have spark at the plugs too.
So, it has to be a timing issue now.
I will eliminate one thing after another until I can get this started again.
Hoddie.
 
Perhaps you have TOO much fuel. Either floor it to put it into flood-clear mode, or just disconnect the fuel injectors. Chances are you're done washed your bores clean too, and you've probably seen a drop in compression as well.

I struggled with much of the same issues as you have and the final soution? Pulled the injector wires, put a little ATF in the bores to get some compression, and cranked for a while to clear out the cylinders. Next thing you know its started spitting and sputtering and came to life. Reconnect the injectors and runs like a champ.

Before you go second guessing your second guessed cam and dizzy timing, give this a shot.
 
When you pulled the distributor did you put it back in the same position as before? It sounds like you are 180 out. If you did, pop the cap mark the position of the rotor and one opposite. Pop the distributor spin the rotor and reinsert. Try to start. Should fire. I had this problem myself.
 
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