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need some help with running hot

winterbeater said:
Do you want to know, or are you happier just having an excuse for not checking it?
Click to expand...

O my, feeling a little resistance to posting a how to check it post?

:laugh2:
 
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Hahaha ! U guys are a riot !!
I don't minde cheacking it ,I'm just not sure I understand how to go about it correctly.
Dose 1 totaly disconect from the sensor and have the resitor go from a ground to the connector . Or do u have to have a whole nother wire ran to it in line .while its still attached to the sensor . ? A diagram would be more help full , or a pic of the set up would be even better .
 
Ecomike said:
Regarding that cheapo AZ temp sender, I hate to point out that all that work was based on the assumption the the T-sensor in the T-stat housing is delivering accurate temp data.:D Otherwise they are both lying to you, just telling you the same lies!:roflmao:
Click to expand...
yeah I know and I don't care. nothing is going to be perfectly accurate but as long as they are within 5 degrees of each other, and are more or less where they are supposed to be (eg, 190 on the highway and 210 at idle) then I am happy. this all started for me when I was getting 240 at stop light and the efan wasn't turning on, all of which was freaking me out, even though I knew the gauge was almost 20 degrees high. having confidence in your gauges makes a big diff in terms of pucker anyway
 
chrslefty said:
Hahaha ! U guys are a riot !!
I don't minde cheacking it ,I'm just not sure I understand how to go about it correctly.
Dose 1 totaly disconect from the sensor and have the resitor go from a ground to the connector . Or do u have to have a whole nother wire ran to it in line .while its still attached to the sensor . ? A diagram would be more help full , or a pic of the set up would be even better .
Click to expand...

The sensor functions by creating a resistance. We want to duplicate a known resitance. So this is tested by taking the plug off the sensor and putting a known resistor in its place. IIRC, 100 ohms should yield a gage reading of 210. So we want to put the 100 ohm resitor in place of the sensor. Take the plug off the sensor. If you have a two wire plug going to your sensor (as my 2000 does), just put the resistor between the two sockets in the plug. If you have a one wire sensor, put the resistor between that and ground.
 
Here are the correct resistor equivalent values:

wim hoppenbrouwers said:
Hallo. Like Winterbeeter says, you can test your gauge with different resistors or a device.
My problem was a cool engine, so I test the temp.gauge first.
60 Ohms resistor gives 260F and 100 Ohms gives 220F.
1365 Ohms gives 100F. 55 Ohms gives 260F These values were correct.



Put the resistor wire into the connector and the other wire to ground.

p.s finally, I changed the T stat. It was stuck open.

'92 XJ
Click to expand...

wim used a variable resistor, but don't worry about that. If you test at 100 ohms and get 220 or so, you are good.
 
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Did you figure it out yet? Is your mechanical fan on the right way? If theres a reverse rotation pump theres also a reverse rotation fan.They right fan can also be installed backwards I'm pretty sure.
 
winterbeater said:
Here are the correct resistor equivalent values:



wim used a variable resistor, but don't worry about that. If you test at 100 ohms and get 220 or so, you are good.
Click to expand...
I hate to hijack, but i have a 97 and have been getting close to the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge only on the highway. I had a 100ohm resistor lying around so I tried it, and my temp gauge redlined to 260. Does this mean it is giving false info? What should be replaced?
 
If the resistor is good (check to see that the resistor is reading 100 Ohms with a good ohm meter), then the sensor in your block is probably bad, reading +40 F too high. You can also use the ohm meter to check the sensor, from the sensor post to ground, meter on ohms, should read 100 ohms. If it reads something like 60 ohm (instead of 100) when it makes the gauge read 260 F, then that is confirmation that the sensor is bad.

Or just change the sensor, and try that.
 
Ecomike said:
If the resistor is good (check to see that the resistor is reading 100 Ohms with a good ohm meter), then the sensor in your block is probably bad, reading +40 F too high. You can also use the ohm meter to check the sensor, from the sensor post to ground, meter on ohms, should read 100 ohms. If it reads something like 60 ohm (instead of 100) when it makes the gauge read 260 F, then that is confirmation that the sensor is bad.

Or just change the sensor, and try that.
Click to expand...
the thing is, at idle it reads perfectly at 210 which makes me confused.
 
CRASH said:
That article does not have values for the coolant temp sensor that runs the gage in your instrument cluster. The values for that sensor are different from the ones for the CTS that tells the computer the coolant temp.
Click to expand...

I am not 100% positive, but IIRC they are the same, on second thought, I may be thinking of the Air Intake Sensor (MAT sensor) being the same. Hmmmm?

So where do we have those numbers for the gauge sensor? I doubt it is in the Renix FI manual.
 
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