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Need a new alternator

crimsondragon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
My alternator is crapping out (seems like everyone else is so mine decided to join the fun), so I'll need a new replacement soon. Been eyeing a Durango 160A for a while now but I found these two lovely gems on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Anybody have experience with any of the sellers? Seems almost too good to be true: cheap, bolt-in, high amp, warranty. I'll need to upgrade the wiring as well.
 
prices seem really cheap for that amperage.ask them if the alt fails ,where do you send it to get fixed. if you buy one from a parts store you know where to take it if it fails.i would definitely increase the wire size that attaches to the alt. that will pass more current also.
 
You have two different control types shown. External regulator for the 91 and PCM control for the Durango. I made the mistake back in 2000 of buying a "high output" alternator from a Vendor (alterstart) on ebay. It never performed properly. Would not put out more than 12.8VDC at idle. Woefully short of the 14.5 you need to keep a battery charged...

NAPA has three different alternators for the 4.0 (at least it does for 97 up...) a 90A, a 120A and a 136A. AS far as I know, the 136 is the largest that will fit into the mounts without modification.

Part numbers
RAY 2138632 $157 136 Amp
RAY 2138613 $127 90 Amp
Both are called out for the ZJ

BSH AL6510X $174 120 Amp. The 90 Amp is the same p/n.

Go figure that the 136A is less expensive than the 120. I can only assume that the volume of 120A altrnators is extremely low.
 
Interesting. I did some late night reading last night and came across the info on the regulator. Since I have a 98 the regulator should be controlled by the ECU. I thought external meant ECU controlled. I figured they changed the regulator to ECU when they switched from Renix to HO. I also read about some of the members on here rewinding the alternators at shops to put out 160A and up to 200A within the stock housing.

*edit*
After a bit more reading, I was right. External means the alternator does not have a regulator but it has 3 points of attachment: field, output, and ground. And pretty much after Renix it was switched over to NipponDenso. I'm tempted to be the guinea pig on one of them.
 
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Yeah I read through that thread. I want to try to avoid downtime as it's my DD. If I go that route I'll have to buy an extra bracket set and grind it down at the shop I work at. I just changed the alternator on my XJ outside with a spare ZJ I got at the junkyard. Damn thing took a shit on me this morning. I was able to go to work and back and then drive from Brooklyn all the way back to NJ to swap it out. Nearly died on me when I got into the driveway. Radio failed, turn signals failed, airbag failed, even the OHC was ready to fail. All that on a Kirkland battery. Only thing that irks me is the pulley. I wasn't able to get either of them off. It's temporary anyway so I'll live with it for now.
 
When I installed the 136A alternator from a '98 ZJ 5.2L I swapped the original pulley from the XJ 117A alternator to the ZJ 136A alternator by putting each pulley in a vice with rubber jaws and then used a air impact to remove the nut and a rubber dead blow hammer to tap the shaft thru the pulley. Reassembled in the reverse order.
There is a difference in the pulley diameters and the number of serpentine grooves.
If you use the ZJ pulley on the XJ you will be spinning the pulley slower due to the larger diameter which will lower the alternators amp rating at idle.
 
I would recommend looking up an alternator rebuild shop. They can usually rebuild a "stock" case for your year and get quite a bit more output. That way it is a straight swap for your old one.
And if you find a shop with a good reputation you KNOW they used quality NEW parts, like bearings and brushes and such.
I got one for my '89 that was a direct bolt in that is putting out about 160 amps. Just make sure to re-do the main power cables.(I went with 2 gauge welding leads)
 
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