Nate's '96 Build Thread

[paddlernate]

I think I'll resurrect my build thread to ask a couple crucial questions I now have about my build. Wish I would've been posting on this thread the whole time, but instead just asked specific questions along the way and never updated progress. I've been wheeling it for over a year, with mostly good results, but front axle wrap is now limiting my progress and enjoyment.
For the record, I've got TNT radius arms, about 4.5" lift, WJ conversion with Ruff Stuff 1-ton OTK steering, D30 front w/ Detroit True Trac, 8.8 rear w/stock LSD, 4.10s. I've been fighting death wobble and several hard knocking noises in the front end since I put it together. I've got all new BJ's, TRE's, upper/axle control arm bushings, steering box, motor mounts, and everything is tight. Please don't respond and tell me to check that the box and/or trackbar, and/or unit bearings, and/or ball joints, and all CA bushings are tight. They're all new and all tight. Tires are brand new and balanced, don't go there.
My latest project was an extensive one to move my front shocks outboard and improve the mounts, and in the process I got two brand new Pro Comp ES9000's. Not high end, but new, and decent. Previously, the shocks had been knocking on the frame under extreme axle wrap.

 

[paddlernate]

 

[paddlernate]

Now to the point- I've been driving this whole time feeling like the front driver's side wheel is a distant relative, only loosely connected to me. The wheel hop in wheeling conditions is terrible. Any time I generate wheel spin, whether rockclimbing, in snow, or in sand, the driver's front wheel begins to violently hop at ludicrous speed. With everything being new and tight, I have to swallow it and point to an inherent flaw in either my steering or suspension systems. I would point directly to the radius arms if I didn't also feel a significant dead spot in the steering. On the drive to the wheeling destination shown in the video below, I felt some slight death wobble come on around turns at speed. I suspect that the cumulative slop of 4 TRE's at least plays a part in allowing the driver's tire to wobble. But then the video shows what is a pretty apparent suspension issue:

https://vimeo.com/147398931

 

[paddlernate]

So I'm struggling with what to do next. I see a couple of approaches and would like feedback from people who have experienced/seen similar issues.

1. 3-Link - I'd use my TNT setup, and just remove the upper links. I'd add a driver's side mount through the floor, with a hoop/bridge over the front diff and a new mount on top of it to accept a heim/JJ.

2. Hydro-assist or steering stabilizer

I think the suspension type is the largest contributor to the wheel hop, so I'm leaning toward starting there, but would hate to get done with that project and still have wheel hop. A steering stabilizer might offer insight to what the real problem is, and hydro-assist may just be a glorified version of that.

Bring it on.

 

[N20Jeep]

the 3 link and a good shock should help the wheel hop

 

[RyanColton]

On the DW subject. You said all control arm bushings are new. Does that include the one pressed into the axle? I had the same thing happen, and the bushings on the axle looks and felt fine until I pulled them out. Needless to say I haven't had any problems with it in 4 years.

 

[paddlernate]

All control arm bushings are new, the uppers have less than 200 miles on them.

 

[TORX]

Nate, your wheel hop issue was pretty evident on your climb up Waterfall. From what I understand, wheel hop can been an unfortunate characteristic common with radius arm front suspensions. They're essentially a four link design, with the uppers connected to the same plane as the lowers with no separation (separation is a good thing).

I've seen plenty of radius arm rigs work fine on the trail though. To try and tune out the wheel hop, you could try adding a firmer shock. I know you commented you just switched to gas shocks, but I'd be curious how a Bilstein 5100 for example would react. Something with a littler firmer valving, that could help dampen the wheel hop before it escalated.

Another option to try could be eliminating one of your uppers. Basically convert to a wristed setup, or Y-link. While I'm not a huge fan of the IRO Y-link, the setups on the trail seem to work alright. I'm just wondering if your radius arms are binding causing the front suspension to behave oddly? Next time you're on the trail, pull an upper for the hell of it. :dunno:

Last option I see would be to three link the front. It's a lot of work, but I'm really impressed with how mine responds off road. With how high your TNT lowers are tucked on the frame side, you'd want the upper placed pretty high at the frame, which might be a challenge. Seems like I read a build on here though that used TNT's as a base for a three link?

Jeep was looking great all day though!