M.O.R.E. Motor Mounts

[Rocketman]

I considered making a set from XJ Lower Control arm bushings (which the MORE units use), but said screw it and ordered a set of MORE mounts just now. Jeff

Rusty's Rubber mounts use the LCA bushings. (replaceable) They are $79 and seem pretty beefy. (waiting to install em)

I talked to Raw Brown and says he has clearance issues and has to redesign before he ships out any more.

 

[CameronB]

I've hade MORE mounts in for about 3 years, and love them. I seem to remember that the driver side bolt was very difficult to get through the mount (steel sleeve in the rubber), and I filed down the bolt some, then ended up beating it in with a small sledge.... Probably going to be a real PITA when it's time to remove it :tears:

I don't mind the extra vibes, if I even noticed them to start with... BTW, I'm still running the stock tranny mount, which is shot. That's next.

 

[Wa Woody]

I'm running Rusty's motor mounts, a good deal for the money I think. I have very little room with my GDI 3-row radiator and I didn't want the motor moving, sending the fan into my radiator. Yea, they transmitt more vibrations than rubber mounts, but it's a Jeep and few vibs go good with the creaks and groans. I also bought Rusty's tranny mount at the same time, but returned the tranny mount. With the tranny mount it was just too much of a good thing. With all three points out of poly, the motor really transmitted the vibrations, and it would hardly budge. That would be good if you spent a lot a time in the rocks or hard core 4X4ing where you really needed to tie the motor down due to high torque situations, but wasn't needed for what I do. Good Luck

Woody

 

[Rawbrown]

Now thats funny...

I have a set of Raw Brown mounts, they seem to work fine for me. I actually think the extra vibrations make the jeep more comfortable to sit in when idling.

 

[MachineMan]

I put the MORE rubber mounts in. Rides nice and they look cool to!!!

The stock ones will sag over time and the bolt sleeve may become floating like mine did. Comparison of the ones I took out vs. the MORE mounts.

 

[Rocketman]

OK.... had a beyatch of a time getting the new driver side Rusty's rubber mount in. All bolts came out great, no breakage, I thinks... I'm jammin here.

BUT THEN

Getting the freakin motor aligned is a pain. I only have the inside bolt in on the frame mount. It's is cocked just enough to keep me from dropping the outside bolt in. Main bolt is in OK. Will it help "shifting the motor" if I pull the bolts on the passenger side first? Put a 2X4 under the oil pan with the jack to relieve the pressure on the bolts and they slide almost freely. The motor is a little shifted, not much, just enough to piss me off. I'm worried if I try to pull the stock mount on the pass side it'll get WAY out of wack. (I did try to bolt in the mount first BUT I could not get the holes to align NOR could I get the spacers in.

Ideas, locations to use a pry bar. Techniques?? Just my little ol self to do this.

BTW... I bought my first 1/2 impact gun. (Sears Xmas gift cards)
WHAT WAS I WAITIN' FOR?? What a difference. I pulled my front sway bar off in 2 minutes. Nothing like the right tool for the job!!

 

[yardape]

I pulled my front sway bar off in 2 minutes. Nothing like the right tool for the job!!

And you're replacing it, right? :wave:

 

[ECKSJAY]

OK.... had a beyatch of a time getting the new driver side Rusty's rubber mount in. All bolts came out great, no breakage, I thinks... I'm jammin here.

BUT THEN

Getting the freakin motor aligned is a pain. I only have the inside bolt in on the frame mount. It's is cocked just enough to keep me from dropping the outside bolt in. Main bolt is in OK. Will it help "shifting the motor" if I pull the bolts on the passenger side first? Put a 2X4 under the oil pan with the jack to relieve the pressure on the bolts and they slide almost freely. The motor is a little shifted, not much, just enough to piss me off. I'm worried if I try to pull the stock mount on the pass side it'll get WAY out of wack. (I did try to bolt in the mount first BUT I could not get the holes to align NOR could I get the spacers in.

Ideas, locations to use a pry bar. Techniques?? Just my little ol self to do this.

From what I'm reading here...it sounds like you put the mount on with the big bolt first and are trying to line up the two bolts on the body? Try installing the mount on the body, then using the taper on the big bolt to help line things up. When I did my mounts all I did was use a jack under the pan like you did, but I only jacked up *just* enough to take pressure off of the original mount. I didn't even have to do anything difficult to line up holes. It just bolted right up. Give that a shot, just put the frame side bolts in first, then use the leverage of the big bolt coupled with a hammer to tap on it. The taper on the end of the big bolt should give you enough to work with there.

 

[ECKSJAY]

And you're replacing it, right? :wave:

OMG I KNOW! He'll flip and burst into a huge fireball if he doesn't!

 

[Rocketman]

OMG I KNOW! He'll flip and burst into a huge fireball if he doesn't!

Hope not... haven't run with it connected in 2 years now. I just don't swerve to miss squirrels. I cream the little fockers!!!

:wierd:

 

[ChiXJeff]

I've been running the M.O.R.E. Bombproof mounts for 3 years now. Much better than the stock mounts. They do transmit vibes at idle, not noticeable at road speeds though. They also use LCA rubber mounts.

 

[johnnyc]

I talked to Raw Brown and says he has clearance issues and has to redesign before he ships out any more.

I'm running a set of Raw Brown's prototypes. There were some clearance issues, but I've had no problems in almost a year. Vibrations are not bad at all.

 

[Comanchedude]

After stroking a blown motor I thought I would replace my mounts with the stock ones from NAPA. As soon as I set the motor down on them I noticed the rubber had compressed almost 3/8 of an inch down from the metal hoop. I have a 3 row rad and the motor moves so much under acceleration that my pulley dove into and destroyed my electric fan. Replaced with MORE and haven't had any problems since. My .02

I am curious about the engine or pulleys "diving" into the radiator or fan under acceleration?
I would think the engine would just “twist” more than normal and I don’t know what that would damage?
How does the engine assembly move forward due to bad engine mounts?
I measure about .5 inch gap or "play" in the factory mounts and then it’s metal to metal and at that point cant move forward unless the metal of the mount were to break.
I can understand a bad tranny mount letting the engine "tip" forward and if you have a mechanical fan maybe that could hit the radiator or the power steering pump pulley could hit the factory electric fan. But that would be under a stopping situation not acceleration.
But I just can’t understand the whole engine "diving" forward so far as to hit anything?
Now I have stock replacement mounts and I run two factory electric fans on a 2core radiator and have no mechanical fan assembly as I run a 4 cylinder alternator bracket to keep the alternator up top and there is 5 plus inches from any engine part or pulley “except the power steering is 1.2 inch away from the electric fan” to the radiator.
Now I guess the power steering pulley could hit the factory fan if the engine moved over .5 inch forward but that would require the metal “frame” of the engine mount to break and that is a very heavy frame.
Now this is my rig and other may have less clearance for some reason?

 

[Wa Woody]

Comanchedude, you would probably be correct if the motor was only held in two spots, one on each side of the engine, but the motor is also held in place by the tranny mount. As the engine twists under acceleration it is also moves forward, I guess this is a combination of the torque and the tranny mount not allowing the motor to push rearward. I don't really know for sure why, but I can say for sure that without good motor mounts in the XJ the mechanical fan will reach out and touch your radiator. This is first hand experience. Good Luck

Woody

 

[HotChiliRam]

Comanchedude, you would probably be correct if the motor was only held in two spots, one on each side of the engine, but the motor is also held in place by the tranny mount. As the engine twists under acceleration it is also moves forward, I guess this is a combination of the torque and the tranny mount not allowing the motor to push rearward. I don't really know for sure why, but I can say for sure that without good motor mounts in the XJ the mechanical fan will reach out and touch your radiator. This is first hand experience. Good Luck

Woody

My mechanical Fan stopped in my radiator when I was wheeling, I don't think it was when accelerating, It was when I was trying to climb a very steep hill full of rocks and the Jeep jumped to one side and the other, and because of all of that movement the engine moved forward making the fan touch the radiator and breaking it.

I fixed my radiator and bought the mounts (but haven't installed htem yet) and I've drove my Jeep on a dayli basis and haven't had a problem with the fan touching the radiator.

So my conclusion on this is that the fan will touch the radiator only in some kinda xtreme situation (Heavy Stop or something like that)

 

[Slip Kid]

Any aftermarket mounts will be stronger than the stock crap. Also, any aftermarket poly mounts will transmit more vibes. I use Rusty's, and they have withheld 50,000 miles of abuse. The vibes are totally worth it to me after buying a new radiator when the stock mounts failed.

 

[Rocketman]

Got all things in and aligned. The Rusty's rubber ones do seem to transmit some vibes at idle, but as soon as you start moving they subside.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I recently got the rawbrown mounts removed and the MORE units installed. They seem about the same to me as far as vibrations. The passengers side rawbrown unit was in BAD shape with the rubber totally broken up and the center sleeve sitting offcenter by at least an inch! The drivers side unit seemed ok. I would LOVE to see a picture of Rusty's rubber mounts. His site has no picture. I didn't even know he made rubber mounts. Jeff

 

[crazyray]

would an torque strap be better, no vibs at idle but when things flex a bit it would hold solid

 

[MGrobe]

My 98 XJ is still my DD. I've had my M.O.R.E mounts for 4+ years and have always had vibe issues. Just like a few other have inidicated the vibes only really show up when sitting in gear at a stop light, especially when the AC compressor clutch is engaged. With these transmitted vibes the interior rattles really annoyingly. Often I will put my trans into neutral at lights which takes care of 85% of the noise being made.

On the other hand these mounts appear to be holding up fine to the years of abuse and now that I have a dual e-fan setup I don't want to risk screwing things up with running oem mounts.

If my interior hadn't become so loose from offroading my XJ then things might be a little more tolerable as well.