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Low oil pressure on our 2000 XJ

Wow, can't believe I never saw this thread. I've been Jeepless for the last 2 weeks for this very reason. My '00 developed a cracked head (in the Dunes I'm pretty sure) and the oil pressure went through the floor. I took it in for the cracked head and it turns out I'm shelling out a couple grand for a new motor. At least now it's got a decent warranty on it... :cries:
 
jeep-noob said:
...reading other threads talking about inadequate cooling inherent to XJ design.

DC did drop the ball somewhat when it came to the cooling system design and I blame it at least in part on the clutch fan. In short, it's a piece of crap. It's not good enough to keep the engine cool on it's own and without the help of the auxiliary electric fan, the engine can overheat at idle. I solved that problem by getting rid of it in favor of a 14" electric fan (so both are electric). I mounted the fan in the stock shroud and sealed the gap between the fan and the shroud to prevent the fan pulling in air from the engine compartment. It works like a charm.
The second problem is the radiator. Some XJ models have a single core radiator and that's only marginal when it's new. When it gets older and some crud builds up inside, the engine starts running hotter than normal. Those who see their gauge consistently go above 210 will know why. If you're lucky enough to have a 2-core radiator from the factory like I have (it comes on Upcountry models with the offroad package), you won't have this problem.
The stock water pump is adequate but the Flowkooler and Hesco high-flow pumps are a vast improvement.
Finally, the stock t'stat is also just about adequate. The Robertshaw balanced t'stat flows more coolant when it's open and maintains a more constant coolant temp.
I'm living proof that an XJ doesn't have to run hot (mine stays at 180* unless it's over 105*F outside) and I'm running a 4.6 stroker with the original 13-1/2 year old factory radiator! All you need to do is choose your upgrades carefully.
 
I know that 5-90 was working an a machined piece to eliminate the fan clutch. That may be something worth looking into if you don't want to go all electric, and don't want to ever worry about the fan clutch again.
 
I used an STP filter from Advance Auto with only 5 holes in the top and some Lucas Oil stabilizer and that seems to have brought my PSI up a good 4-5 lbs. Give that a try.
 
Cracked head on 2001 XJ with 65,000 miles,this after having oil pump changed because of low pressure at idle.Having motor pulled to have new head installed and cam bearings changed.Shop checked main bearings and rod bearings,they were perfect.
 
SlimsXJ said:
Cracked head on 2001 XJ with 65,000 miles,this after having oil pump changed because of low pressure at idle.Having motor pulled to have new head installed and cam bearings changed.Shop checked main bearings and rod bearings,they were perfect.

What's the build date of your Jeep? It's stamped on the driver's door.
 
A ?. If you were to have a cracked head, and had it replaced, are the heads in inventory any better than the ones when the engine was assembled 6 years ago? What's the probability of getting another 0331 casting? Or are all the 0331 castings now used up?
 
Andy in Pa. said:
It is a Fram oil filter, but I just installed it. Its the Mustang 5.0L PH-8A.
SHAME ON YOU!

Doesn't matter if you just installed it. Lose the Fram. Get a Purolator filter, the one that's listed for the 4.0L, not one for a Ford engine, and that should solve your problems.

Did I mention LOSE THE FRAM?
 
Sounds like you should all get together and class action DC. At least notify the Feds to see if a recall could occur. I'll check my 00XJ head tomorrow. 108K but haven't noticed any loss of coolant.
Tom
 
Class action might get farther. Recalls are pushed by the NHTSA and are generally only for safety-related problems (stuff like brakes that fail, gas tanks that explode, little stuff like that). Cracked heads and overheating aren't likely to get the safety dudes very excited.

Unfortunately.

So much for arguments that Chrysler "improved" the XJ when they bought out AMC ...
 
Eagle said:
SHAME ON YOU!

Doesn't matter if you just installed it. Lose the Fram. Get a Purolator filter, the one that's listed for the 4.0L, not one for a Ford engine, and that should solve your problems.

Did I mention LOSE THE FRAM?

Oh man, that was SOO LAST YEAR!!! Did you notice how OLD this post is??? I have learned alot since then about oil filters and don't even own this Jeep anymore. It is now someone elses problem!!!
 
something is up with the cooling system i live in erie and when its 20 or below i usually have hot melt you gloves heat inside of 2-3 miles. so you should be warmed up.
 
just to bring this thread back from the dead. I've got a 2000 xj, found coolant in my oil about 8k miless ago, lost about a total of 3/4 a gallon of premix of coolant. Supposed to get the head replaced next week, experiencing about 40 psi at startup and 20-30 when stuck in traffic at idle, but then it goes up to 40 no problem when driving.

I'm worried that replacing the head isn't the right thing to do. I've got 128k miles on it. Just worried about cams and bearing damage. Do you think that much anti-freeze will do damage?

Should I just get a replacement engine/reman around $1,900 instead?
 
I just dropped 4k on my 2000 XJ engine (complete rebuild). Apparently my oil sender was out for a long time and I was only getting 5 lbs. A lifter stuck and wore the cam flat in one spot. Never knew until the misfire code showed. I new I had a bad head, but it got worse from there. Definitely worth the check. Chrysler really should be held accountable for the 0331 Heads.
 
I just dropped 4k on my 2000 XJ engine (complete rebuild). Apparently my oil sender was out for a long time and I was only getting 5 lbs. A lifter stuck and wore the cam flat in one spot. Never knew until the misfire code showed. I new I had a bad head, but it got worse from there. Definitely worth the check. Chrysler really should be held accountable for the 0331 Heads.

Haven't you been paying attention? They are going bankrupt. There is no money left for you.
 
just kind of weird, I never noticed the oil pressure guage move that much. It goes to 50 at startup and drives at 50 until warm-up, then down to 20ish at idle in traffic. As soon as I start driving it goes up to 40 and comes back down once I slow down or at idle.. Maybe its always moved like that
 
quick question for you all. Everdrive was unable to get me a cylinder head so I ordered a new one through Clearwater Cylinder Head. The guy on the phone mentioned the only thing I'd have to do is swap over the rockers. Is that an easy thing to do?
 
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