Lockers on 1992 XJ

[icewolf73]

You're 3.55s are okay since you have a manual and run trails as opposed to rocks... for now. You could actually go a bit lower (4.10s) to get a little more low end pull and to keep you nice and slow during steep decents.

 

[hiiamthomas]

Ok, so he is a 6 month plan, I know it's a while but I am 19 and full time college student( 15 credits) 5 classes/part time florist. My jeep is at a drive line shop right now getting a custom drive line for the front, and a high angle joint in the rear. In the next 6 months I want to get new axle shafts for both my axles, stronger ones,( what do i need to change my rear 8.25 to 29 spline from 27. Lockers for both (Aussies) and I figure if i'm doing all this I might as well get gears as well, and 3/4-1'' spring spacers in front to stop the rubbing at full flex. keep it mind this is my daily driver as well. What do you guys think? Oh and to answer the question about rubbing I already have bump stops installed and I don't rub in the rear at all even at full flex.

 

[Rod Knee]

IIRC, the OP is going to have to also switch out carriers to go from 27 to 29 spline. Yes/no?

 

[stephenspann27]

Are there any ill effects in relation to MPG or tire wear when running a detroit style locker in the front?

I would think that if you ran one in the rear.. it could be dangerous right? And.. toast your tires.. I know they are supposed to un lock when you are not giving it any gas.. Also.. one in the rear might be dangerous on wet roads?

 

[CanMan]

IIRC, the OP is going to have to also switch out carriers to go from 27 to 29 spline. Yes/no?

Yes.

 

[89xj]

Are there any ill effects in relation to MPG or tire wear when running a detroit style locker in the front?

I would think that if you ran one in the rear.. it could be dangerous right? And.. toast your tires.. I know they are supposed to un lock when you are not giving it any gas.. Also.. one in the rear might be dangerous on wet roads?

ive heard that a detroit is not good for front axle applications. IIRC, if an axle shaft breaks, it also takes out the locker. might be wrong, but ive heard that for the front, a good lunch box locker(aussie or lockright) would be better in the front if you cant afford a selectable locker.
as for tire wear, its possible to get slight tire wear. as for driveabiltiy, you need to know its there and drive accordinly. you cant be a jack ass and punch it through turns.

 

[stephenspann27]

But.. say I have it in 2wd, and the locker is in the front (no rear locker).. there is no power going to the front so it shouldn't lock, right? I would think the only way it would cause a problem in a turn is if I had a rear locker.

MY XJ is an '87 with the disco 30... and a NP231 So especially with the front axle "disconnected" (not in in the vacuum actuated 4wd mode) the locker would have no effect on daily driving.

 

[89xj]

But.. say I have it in 2wd, and the locker is in the front (no rear locker).. there is no power going to the front so it shouldn't lock, right? I would think the only way it would cause a problem in a turn is if I had a rear locker.

MY XJ is an '87 with the disco 30... and a NP231 So especially with the front axle "disconnected" (not in in the vacuum actuated 4wd mode) the locker would have no effect on daily driving.

correct, in 2wd it would be invisable. in 4wd part time, it will lock when a load is applied. when in part time, you could make or buy a posi lock kit that allows you to disconnect the front axle.

personnally, i would do a lunch box locker in the front instead of a full carrier locker, such as the detroit. the best option would be to have a selectable locker.

 

[hiiamthomas]

I just got my Jeep back today and I have a sick beefy front CV driveline but since my transmission is lowered to help with the angle in the rear instead of a SYE my 4x4 linkage is all messed up I want to get the transmission moved back up and have a SYE my local driveline place wants 1000 dollars for the whole setup with a CV driveline. Any cheaper ways? Please help this really sucks. I understand it's nothing to do with lockers, I can upload pictures if needed.

 

[89xj]

I just got my Jeep back today and I have a sick beefy front CV driveline but since my transmission is lowered to help with the angle in the rear instead of a SYE my 4x4 linkage is all messed up I want to get the transmission moved back up and have a SYE my local driveline place wants 1000 dollars for the whole setup with a CV driveline. Any cheaper ways? Please help this really sucks. I understand it's nothing to do with lockers, I can upload pictures if needed.

research SYE. if you use a front shaft for the rear, you can do a SYE for $200. you can do a RE hack$tap with spicer flange and front shaft or a porc(performance off road)SYE kit and front shaft. there are alot of options out there. if you get a new heavy duty cv shaft with the slip yoke in the shaft and sye kit(tom woods for example), it will run you about $500-$600.

have you adjusted the linkage to the transfer case?

 

[hiiamthomas]

I don't know how to adjust it, it's real weird, all for the 4x4 lever I'm getting the transmission put back up and then a SYEkit with a CV driveline from a company in Sac, Ca for only 489 Xjranger referred me.

 

[nosigma]

hey john, your jeep sounds like something I like, can you send me pictures of your rig, I would like you to give me more info on the chromo axle and what not.

My 92 is pretty basic with a lot of junk yard parts and home brew stuff. I tried to spend as little as possible on it but still end up with something that wheels really well. Low and armored is the theme. Most of what I did you can duplicate with persistence in the junk yard and a welder or friend that has one. I have posted most of these mods so if you list out threads started by me you will find the details. The armor came first for the most part and I am very glad I did it that way.

Aussies front and rear, bastard pack rear 3/8ths center pin (grade 8 bolt), longer rear shackles, 1" lift block (its 7 inches long with 6 deg of taper and radiused on the top, machined it myself, been running it for two years and with no problems) T-Bird springs up front with a couple extra XJ coil isolators to trim the lift, XJ D44 rear, HP D30 front, RE track bar and track bar mount, tie rod has a bar rosette welded inside it and is boxed on the outside with angle iron. AJ's rails, Rusty's oil/trans skid, Rusty's diff skids, factory gas and t case skids, factory rear hitch, factory front tow hooks, boxed lower control arm mounts, raised rear shock mounts, armored muffler, gusseted passenger side upper axle mount. Alloy USA front axles, full circlips retaining the caps on the front shafts, SYE (PORC), XJ front shaft used in the rear, armored frame rails, XJ dual diaphragm booster (and pedal box), aftermarket front outboard axle seals, hockey puck bump stops front and stacked & welded box tube to space the rear bump stops down, F250 rear sway bar links used as quick disconnects (wing nut on top, hitch pin on bottom), various Monroe truck shocks (14" travel front, 13" rear), Mix of rustys (Junk) and Terra Flex (excellent) adjustable front control arms. Air intake is through the firewall into the area just in front of the windshield. Modified factory swing out spare tire carrier to raise the tire 7" with a built in skid to keep the tire from hanging up on higher ledge drops.

90% of the junk yard and home brew "how too" I found by searching in the modified tech forum.

John

 

[hiiamthomas]

that is awesome, I'm going to search you, to see more pics and such, if you dont have pics in another thread post em!