Liquid Aluminum, Pelletized, or Tablet Stop Leak for Heater Core

[Ecomike]

Now, that product you linked is a head gasket repair solution... I would assume that sees a lot higher temps & pressures than a heater core does, initially needing high temp when applied, to "bake" it on, so to speak...

Would using a lighter duty sealer be less prone to building up in unwanted areas, like within the block?.. "New style coolants", you mean those orange ones?

The head gasket SEALER solution has a higher concentration of silicates than the old formula green antifreeze solution uses, and it has the fibers. It will seal larger holes and leaks and do it faster. Either of the leak stops (heavy duty, or standard duty) will need heat, and pressure, and time to seal up the leak.

Most of the antifreeze on the market today does not have the sodium silicate in the formulas now (not sure why, as it is extremely environmentally safe?). So make sure you get antifreeze that actually lists sodium silicate on the antifreeze bottle label as an ingredient!!!

The silicate is chemically a liquid glass, and turns into a concrete/sand like solid when it dries in the hole. The fibers catch on the hole, and give the glass/concrete seal structural strength (think fiber composite). It dries by being hot and seeing ambient air on the outside of the leak. New cars for 80 years had the fiber pellets added to the radiators on all new cars up until 1996 that I know of. After 1996, I don't know if they changed that.

Just because the antifreeze is green, does not mean it is an old silicate containing formula!!!

The light duty sealers are used year round, for sealing and to seal if and as a tiny leak develops. New car companies use (used) the fiber sealer pellets and silicate in the antifreeze to get them past the warranty periods for at least 80 years!!!

The heavy duty sealer can not be used year round. It is used for 1-2 hours to seal BIG leaks, then drained and replaced with usual antifreeze mix, and fibers.

Near as I can tell the radiators and heater cores made now days, use such narrow tube openings and have such thin walls, they plug up in 3-4 years no matter what you use.

 

[boncrshr]

I just wanted to add to this thread, as I used Alumaseal for a leaking heater core about two weeks ago and it worked perfectly and quickly. I did flush prior to treatment as recommended.

 

[Jeepguy03]

what about bypassing the heater core and adding an electric heater to get you by?

This.

I will never use stop leak. I've seen what it can do to the heater core, radiator, engine block and cylinder head. I'm betting if you put it in you will have more problems down the road than you do right now. It leaves a film on everything, clogs up tiny holes, and you can never get it completely out.

My buddy put it in his diesel because he had a radiator leak. Thousands of dollars later and the truck still overheats.

Think about how the stop leak works to fill in the leak, then think about what it does to all the coolant passages in the head and block.

 

[boncrshr]

Well, too late...already have it in the system. I am pushing 300K on my motor, so whenever I do a rebuild I will report back.

 

[Hardkor]

Re: Re: Liquid Aluminum, Pelletized, or Tablet Stop Leak for Heater Core

This.

I will never use stop leak. I've seen what it can do to the heater core, radiator, engine block and cylinder head. I'm betting if you put it in you will have more problems down the road than you do right now. It leaves a film on everything, clogs up tiny holes, and you can never get it completely out.

My buddy put it in his diesel because he had a radiator leak. Thousands of dollars later and the truck still overheats.

Think about how the stop leak works to fill in the leak, then think about what it does to all the coolant passages in the head and block.

This^ that stuff is just asking for trouble. But at 300k you will be doing a rebuild soon enough anyway.

 

[boncrshr]

Yeah, at this particular point in my life, I think I would rather rebuild my motor than change my heater core again.

BTW, the back story is that I changed heater and evap cores about 2 years ago, and the new heater core started leaking almost a year to the day later.

 

[Muddzz]

For winter freezing, we use long johns and warmer socks.

A camp heater also works.

Replacing the heater core in the Cherokee isn't plug n play .. I would re-core or replace.

Stop leak for emergencies. I don't think I would use it with a working radiator.

If you can't fix it right away block it off and use a portable heater along with a rag or cloth to clear a foggy wind-shield.