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Light duty farm equipment....recommendations??

Deano, it's 35 miles north of Marlinton on 219, about 45 mins south of Elkins(guesstimate). As for calculations, we are a family of builders and engineers. My dad has been in the building industry since the early 70s and is a civil engineer by training;) I've been in estimating for 5 years myself, so I've learned how to do it over the years :D (btw, I appreciate the offer, just thought I'd explain).

As for being careful what I wish for, my dad is a strong advocate of school being more important, so I always have that as an excuse :angel: In all honesty though, I feel it's my duty to be the laborer. I can't contribute to this investment financially, but I can sure as he!! contribute my time and energy which are things my dad is in short supply of.

I went and talked to my John Deere/Kubota dealer and told him what I wanted to do and what basic implements I wanted to start out with and he said I was looking at 10-15k for a nice slightly used(under 100 hours) tractor. Sounds about right to me, and he hit on all the points you guys have made already about the different implements and such. One thing he did say was that he would use a plow behind the tractor, not in front. He said he would pull it rather than back up and push it as that would just destroy the blade in a hurry. Thanks for your help guys, if you feel like contributing more feel free.

Ary
 
Ary'01XJ said:
Deano, it's 35 miles north of Marlinton on 219, about 45 mins south of Elkins(guesstimate). As for calculations, we are a family of builders and engineers. My dad has been in the building industry since the early 70s and is a civil engineer by training;) I've been in estimating for 5 years myself, so I've learned how to do it over the years :D (btw, I appreciate the offer, just thought I'd explain).

Ary

Understood. Yup...your on the other end of WV. I'm about 20 miles from Charlestown and the race track.

You're in a good field. I did estimating for a renovation business in a small town in middle Virginia when I was around 22-23 years old. I'm recently back into that end of things, and love it.
With all of the experience that you both have in engineering and building...you'll do well. The offer was sincere, although I see where you'd never need the help. :)

John Deere is highly over rated. I like only one feature in their tractors..... they have cylinder liners in the newer models that can be replaced instead of employing a machine shop to renew the cylinder walls.

Looks like you're on your way to a busy next couple of years.
If you have questions....We're here. I always loved the populus of NAXJA. There is good solid technical and personal experience here on any subject you can investigate. :) :)
 
Ary'01XJ said:
One thing he did say was that he would use a plow behind the tractor, not in front. He said he would pull it rather than back up and push it as that would just destroy the blade in a hurry.

Sure, if you're scratching gravel. For moving snow, I'll take a front blade any day. A rear blade will tend to lift over what you're pulling.

For a loader, I like a hydrostat. But if you develop problems with it, it's a LOT of $$$$ to fix it.
 
ChiXJeff said:
Sure, if you're scratching gravel. For moving snow, I'll take a front blade any day. A rear blade will tend to lift over what you're pulling.

For a loader, I like a hydrostat. But if you develop problems with it, it's a LOT of $$$$ to fix it.

Agreed. A back blade won't do deep stuff well, and if you're not careful it will plow up more gravel than snow. If your ground isn't well frozen, you need feet on the snowplow. In addition, it's a drag to get out and shift the blade angle. You'd do better to save out a grand or so from your tractor budget and get a beater plow truck.

My Ford 1510 has a nice transmission setup for a loader. It has a dual transmission, consisting of a 3-forward, 1-reverse synchromesh transmission that shifts on the column, and a floor-shifted 4-speed, giving 4 speeds in reverse and 12 forward. With the column shift you can shuttle between forward and reverse quickly.
 
ChiXJeff said:
Sure, if you're scratching gravel. For moving snow, I'll take a front blade any day. A rear blade will tend to lift over what you're pulling.

For a loader, I like a hydrostat. But if you develop problems with it, it's a LOT of $$$$ to fix it.

Agree 100% on the blade locaton. Rear blades suck for anythign but light grading, they are good for leveling light material but ride over heavy stuff. Moving snow with one owuld be like trying to back-blade your whole drive! Plus if you get involved with really huge drifts even with a tractor you can get mired up.

There are some powered down blades for both trucks and tractors but they tend to be spendy and clog up, mostly for clean up work.

I have to disagree with you on the maintenace statement Jeff. If they are being worked on by a shop it can get spendy but 90% of the hydrodstatic units and valves used today in skiid steers and lift trucks (what I see) are rebuildable, just very often a shop or maintenance service chooses to replace them becuase when you are paying 75-95$ shop rate the labor to rebuild is quite high. However if you are maintaining your own equipment it is quite cheap.

also hydrostatyic stiff will last forever if you take care of it. Change the fluid and filters regular. Make sur eit is always cleen and not burned up.
 
Matthew Currie said:

My Ford 1510 has a nice transmission setup for a loader. It has a dual transmission, consisting of a 3-forward, 1-reverse synchromesh transmission that shifts on the column, and a floor-shifted 4-speed, giving 4 speeds in reverse and 12 forward. With the column shift you can shuttle between forward and reverse quickly.

I have a 29hp Ford 1710 4x4 with a bucket. Once you have/use a bucket, you will always find use for one :)
The Kubota's are also excellent tractors - however, beware of the 'grey market' tractors that are coming into the market. Most of them are very hard to get parts for. If the terrain isn't too hilly, a 2WD tractor would suit you just fine - just make sure it's hydraulic system can utilize your front snowblade.
Have fun and buy some BIG tools! ;-)
 
Ary'01XJ said:
and maybe even a heated concrete floor for when we're in the barn for any length of time(any info on this?).

Email or PM me about this. I am building a house/shop right now with radient heat. Maybe I can help.

Vug
 
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