Left turn signal blinks rapidly, UUGGHH!

[sotrhRaven]

I have checked and or replaced all of the following lights.
Headlights
Parking
All Turn signals
All Brake Lights
Backup Lights
Interior dome Lights
Push Dome lights
Lights under dash
Light under hood
Dash and console lights
Also all fuses are fine

Still the blinker is flashing rapidly.

Any Ideas on one I missed.

Ben

2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport I6 RWD

 

[winterbeater]

Replace the combination flasher.

 

[tugalo]

Make sure that you did not mix in a heavy duty bulb with the regular duty bulbs.....

 

[sotrhRaven]

:gee: And the winner is The Combination Flasher!!!!
Thanks for the help.
Once again the forum comes to my rescue.
Was a bitch to find. But now I know its hising place next time won't be so bad.

Ben

 

[NJ95JeepXJ]

Where was that hiding? Just recently in the heavy rain we've had here, my left blinker started flashing rapidly. Seems like the same problem you had.

 

[sotrhRaven]

on the 2001 I have I had to first remove the kick panel under the steering column. Under the plastic is a metal cover as well. Remove that and look to the left. You will will find it right there.

Ben

 

[bigalpha]

Also check the ground tab at the socket.

 

[NJ95JeepXJ]

I'm having a similar problem. My rear left flasher goes really fast, while the front left does not work at all. Left headlight only lights up dimly. The left indicator in the dash has been staying lit up solid sporadically as well.

I checked or changed the parking and side bulbs on the front left and all the bulbs on the rear left. Cleaned the ground on the rear left (couldn't find a common ground on the front left). I also changed combination flasher relay. I opened up the panel that the relay plugs into, and all of the connections look solid.

Still, the problem persists. Any other ideas? Could it be the turn signal wand? Should I just go ahead and replace every bulb possible? I was hoping to avoid that but I guess it would still be a pretty cheap fix.

'95, 4.0 5spd, manual windows & locks

 

[heyhar]

Sounds like a bad ground. Any time a bulb lights up dimly, another bulb is in series with it, usually close by. Electricity is always seeking ground, so instead of just replacing bulbs (which could be the problem anyway), pull the bulb, use a meter, and see if you have continuity to ground on what should be the ground side of the socket. Pull a bulb, energize the light, ground one lead of the meter, and CAREFULLY see which contact is hot. The other should be the ground. Turn off the circuit, set the meter to ohms, and with the one lead still grounded, probe the contact that 'wasn't hot'. There should be little or no resistance. If the bulb sockets check out OK, check all the dual filament bulbs. Occasionally, a short between the two filaments can occur, and the energized circuit can then power whatever else is on the other filament's circuit. Also, make sure the metal socket, and base of the bulbs are not rusted or corroded enough not to give the bulb its ground, for the metal base screw-in bulbs. I'm not entirely ruling out the turn-signal switch, but you should look at every other possibility first.

 

[joe_peters]

1. Go to the light that isn't working at all.

2. Using a meter determine the missing element--power, ground, burnt filament.

3. Repair.

Post back results.

 

[NJ95JeepXJ]

Just a quick update since I just got to work...

Borrowed a multimeter from the electricians here on Friday. Looks like the left headlight socket is the culprit. Have not gotten a chance to replace yet, but hopefully tomorrow I will. I will update on that, since I should fix that regardless of what else happens.

Unfortunately, my beloved Heep is starting to fall apart on me. I need new radiator and my windshield just got smashed on Friday by a flying rock on the Turnpike. My tires are on their last leg. Lastly, I think I need new wheel bearings because it's making a heinous clanking noise underneath that gets faster/slower with speed regardless of whether I'm in gear or not. Lots of shimmy between 50-60 mph that wasn't there before.

I dumped $1300 in it last summer on replacing the exhaust, shocks, and springs. I'm just not sure if it's worth another $800-$1200 just to keep it road worthy for inspection this month.