• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Keeping A Low Center of Gravity.

the term "center of gravity" is true for the smaller rigs. as a 3" lift with 31" tires technically has a superior cog to a 3" and 37" setup.

" low cog" is just an easy way of saying " fitting big tires with a minimal suspension lift and making it work"

This thread is useful in the sense it can give folks ideas on how to make just that work. I have fit 33's on 3" lifts and all it involved was fender trimming. When you start talking minor wheelbase stretches, interesting bumpstop ideas, custom shock mounting, additional fender and inner fender modification, suspension mods to retain flexibilty, and stuff like that, is when this thread is (was) useful.
 
31's and no lift is comparable to 35's and 2", same as its comparable to 44's and 4" of lift, and so on..... I think everyone gets it, it just relates to people differently because of how their jeep is set up, there is no defined right or wrong unless someone here wrote the bible on it. So everyone cry a river & post more pics or something.

this is how I roll, body damage and all..
10103628_20102204646.jpg
 
Last edited:
the term "center of gravity" is true for the smaller rigs. as a 3" lift with 31" tires technically has a superior cog to a 3" and 37" setup.

" low cog" is just an easy way of saying " fitting big tires with a minimal suspension lift and making it work"

This thread is useful in the sense it can give folks ideas on how to make just that work. I have fit 33's on 3" lifts and all it involved was fender trimming. When you start talking minor wheelbase stretches, interesting bumpstop ideas, custom shock mounting, additional fender and inner fender modification, suspension mods to retain flexibilty, and stuff like that, is when this thread is (was) useful.


THE KING HAS SPOKEN!:D I completely understand what you're talking about I was just having a little fun with it. My rig is nowhere near finished but I thought I would show it off a little so people could see what low lift/bigger tires is capable of. I had no problems climbing the washout with the swaybar disco'd and was really impressed that I only had to adjust my line a couple times when I had two tires hanging.
 
THE KING HAS SPOKEN!:D I completely understand what you're talking about I was just having a little fun with it. My rig is nowhere near finished but I thought I would show it off a little so people could see what low lift/bigger tires is capable of. I had no problems climbing the washout with the swaybar disco'd and was really impressed that I only had to adjust my line a couple times when I had two tires hanging.

don't know if thats sarcasm or not, but i'm far from the king lol.

i was originally planning on a 5.5" lift to clear my 37's (even that was low at the time) but i was too cheap to buy new springs so i ended up at 4" or so and when those crappy rustys springs sagged to almost nothing I was still too cheap to get new ones until recently.

I just ran it, bumpstopped as needed, cut some metal where needed and whaddaya know it worked pretty amazingly. After i got some seat time on it and wheeled with other rigs i soon realized there were plenty o benefits to being low and i stuck with it and improved upon it.

edit: ok maybe i am the king

13942_506300694454_226300669_153606_5746041_n.jpg
 
I think the root issue when we talk about COG is really what gives us stability, such as on a side-slope. I also think we need a way to quantify and define what yields stability so that we know a LCOG build when we see it. For stability we need a proportionately wide stance relative to the center of gravity, but while the width of stance is readily measured, COG is not. So how about substituting a COG measurement with a simple measurement of the distance of the frame rail to the ground. I suggest taking this measurement at the frame rail where the framerail is adjacent to the front door hinge, which is what I have done.

I have a 2 inch lift and 31X10.5 inch tires. My height of framerail from the ground is 14.75 inches and the distance from the outsides of my rear tires is 66.75 inches. So my width to height ratio is 66.75 inches divided by 14.75 inches, or 4.53. Do I have a LCOG rig? I don’t know if that ratio makes my jeep "LCOG" but at least I have a measurement for comparison. Somebody else can figure out what the threshold ratio is for a LCOG Cherokee.

Tom
 
Last edited:
don't know if thats sarcasm or not, but i'm far from the king lol.

i was originally planning on a 5.5" lift to clear my 37's (even that was low at the time) but i was too cheap to buy new springs so i ended up at 4" or so and when those crappy rustys springs sagged to almost nothing I was still too cheap to get new ones until recently.

I just ran it, bumpstopped as needed, cut some metal where needed and whaddaya know it worked pretty amazingly. After i got some seat time on it and wheeled with other rigs i soon realized there were plenty o benefits to being low and i stuck with it and improved upon it.

edit: ok maybe i am the king

13942_506300694454_226300669_153606_5746041_n.jpg


You got it right with your current rig, I love it! :cheers: I had no idea you were the creepy guy in the BK commercials though.
 
The only reason i am gonna throw 33's on my 3" lift is cause im to cheep to buy a new lift :D and when i go up from the 33 i probably wont lift it any more either its easier to cut and mold the sheet metal than it is to pull out the wallet

and KTM, any time somebody brings up lcog they put up a pic of your rig. your either the king or........a pic whore :D
 
and KTM, any time somebody brings up lcog they put up a pic of your rig. your either the king or........a pic whore :D

Troof! :D
 
31's and no lift is comparable to 35's and 2", same as its comparable to 44's and 4" of lift, and so on..... I think everyone gets it, it just relates to people differently because of how their jeep is set up, there is no defined right or wrong unless someone here wrote the bible on it. So everyone cry a river & post more pics or something.

this is how I roll, body damage and all..
10103628_20102204646.jpg

This XJ has more flex than most xjs with 3inches of lift and 31s. haha
 
This XJ has more flex than most xjs with 3inches of lift and 31s. haha

With that kind of set up you can flex on demand. You dont have to drive up a rock you can lift the tire up in preperation for the big obstacles.
 
anyone else notice that the hatch is open??? thats not good on the unibody this is for sure. probably why he doesnt need a rock to flex out


31's and no lift is comparable to 35's and 2", same as its comparable to 44's and 4" of lift, and so on..... I think everyone gets it, it just relates to people differently because of how their jeep is set up, there is no defined right or wrong unless someone here wrote the bible on it. So everyone cry a river & post more pics or something.

this is how I roll, body damage and all..
10103628_20102204646.jpg
 
The open hatch is the reason he has mad flex.
 
4.0 aw4 with shift controll mod, 231/dana 300 doubler, 14 bolt and dana 60. welded front, detroit rear, 4.56 R&P. ballistic 1.25 joints on front triangled 4link. rear leafs flip around and slip and twist traction bar. completely flat skid from oil pan to rear yoke. H1s with pressed centers and cut down mags. grooved 42 tsls. exo with interal cage, 16" dove in front. mini boat sides with sliders, BDS 9500 shocks. front coils are 4.5 REs with new spring mounts to make it 6". rear springs are 4.5 REs with 1.5 BDS shackles.
 
the nose on the 2nd pic reminds me of a JK, sweet ride
 
thanks, its my dads. ive been wheeling for 11 years and he has always been into dragracing. he sold his mustang to build this and hasnt looked back. took about 4 months of nights and weekends. its his first "real" 4x4. sad part for me is it wheels better then my CJ ive been tweaking on for the last decade. guess i took everything i learned on mine and did his right the first time.
 
Mine is probably the lowest xj on 33s in the area so... here is some more uselessness?

3.5" Lift on Long arms, 33x12.5s, 3.75 BS on the wheels. Lots of hills here so I really dont want to go any higher. The plan is JK Rubi 44s, and stay at 33s, or 35s and another inch. Its my DD

DSCN0070.jpg

DSCN0106.jpg

DSCN0065.jpg

That looks really really good!! I have a 97 and have been thinking about going LA with my 32's. Completely off topic, but what bumpers do you have?

And to contribute....32's with 3" lift and BOTH sway bars still attached :)
100_2250.jpg


:)

John
 
ttt

100_4896.jpg


100_4931.jpg


my xj second from the left
35's on 11.5 wide bead locks with a nice wide stance
3.5" rubicon express front springs, bastard pack with 1.75" lift shackles
the rear leaves sit almsot flat, flexs great
used those same pyramid bump stops KTM did in the rear with risers added the rear rides great over the sand humps

im still running a factory style short arm *lengthened a bit to make it about an inch stretch to keep the tires off the inner fenders*

anyone put any thought into raising the lower mounts on the axle tube and raising the uppers to keep the same seperation?

lots of work, but even a couple inches would be killer in terms of getting flatter control arm angles


ps the other xj is 33"s and 5.5"
our trucks were the grand champions of the week we spent in Moab, i found the pucker factor going up the vertical cutes and any of the sidehills in mine to be nothing of a concern
i have a full flat belly on mine, so anytime i would drag on something due to brekaover angle it would jsut slip and slide anyways

was awesome, so glad i stumbled on this thread last year and did it like this. keep the dream alive boys
 
Last edited:
Back
Top