Is this front end noise normal? (video)

[Benthos]

So I've been having what I think is a louder than normal roar around 60 mph. No change for four wheel drive. The pinion seems tight. No play in the drive shaft. Sounds like what you would expect from very aggressive tires driving next to you. It's subtle, my passengers don't notice it.

Took a look at the u-joints and they were completely shot so I just swap them out and threw on some new SKF axle hubs while I was there even though they seemed fine.

Reassembling everything I noticed there is a clicking noise when turning the hubs buy hand that sounds like it's inside the differential.

Is this normal gear noise or is it louder than it should be?

https://youtu.be/quh-QJHIUTw

 

[Benthos]

I have been scouring YouTube to try and find some clip in any of the videos on xj's where somebody turns the axle hub to see if that noise is there, and I can't find one. Literally a thousand videos on how to replace the axle hub and not a single person turns it at any point.

Nobody knows the answer to this?

 

[RCP Phx]

To me it sounds like your spiders/side gears.

 

[jeep ride]

Take the diff cover off and spin the axle maybe tell more about it

 

[Benthos]

I*the diff.opened the diff.

It seems to be the spider gears:*

https://youtube.com/shorts/Rtx2PY-EFpE?feature=share

​​​​​​​I did not see any metal shavings or chips, everything looks pristine. So normal? Or does my spider gear need to be replaced?

 

[8Mud]

It has been my experience the thrust washers wear before the spider gears need to be replaced. Research this before you do it, figure out if you have the pin or the bolt locking the cross shaft in place. Taking that cross shaft locking bolt out can be a cluster funk, a whole bunch of people have snapped that bolt off while trying to remove it.
If the spider gears have sharp defined edges they are likely OK. You can see excessive wear on a thrust washer, a typical play is .006 though I have seen significantly more than that without any real issues. There is some play in that assembly anyway, the play in the axle shaft side movement, there is significant normal play at the C clip.
I had trouble with my Moog hubs, the bearings weren't seated all the way. My solution was to torque 5-foot pounds over, then loosen the nut off, and then retorque to specification.
While you have the cover off try to pry up on the carrier assembly, should be little to no movement. Typical play is around .003 if you can feel up movement on the carrier assembly it may be time for new carrier bearings.

 

[Benthos]

The whole ring gear and carrier seemed tight. The backlash also seemed tight. Maybe the roar was coming from the u-joints and now that they have been replaced it will be better. There is a little tiny bit of side to side play in the splines of the axle shaft where they mate with the spider gear. Just enough to see the oil moving before the gear does.

I'm guessing it all looks okay so I will seal it up. I'm guessing that that noise turning them is normal.

If it's not it would be easy to replace the spider gears. I have the roll pin instead of the bolt holding the Cross pin in. I presume you just tap it through and it falls out the back? Such that you don't even have to take the carrier out?

 

[RCP Phx]

The roll pin is the model you do "not" want to mess with!

 

[RCP Phx]

BTW, I see yours is the roll-pin style so if you have do it you will find out! I've done dozens of axles and never had a problem with removing the bolt. You just need the proper wrench or socket!

 

[8Mud]

The whole ring gear and carrier seemed tight. The backlash also seemed tight. Maybe the roar was coming from the u-joints and now that they have been replaced it will be better. There is a little tiny bit of side to side play in the splines of the axle shaft where they mate with the spider gear. Just enough to see the oil moving before the gear does.

I'm guessing it all looks okay so I will seal it up. I'm guessing that that noise turning them is normal.

If it's not it would be easy to replace the spider gears. I have the roll pin instead of the bolt holding the Cross pin in. I presume you just tap it through and it falls out the back? Such that you don't even have to take the carrier out?

Finding a punch that is just the right diameter and long enough can be problematic. I have a large selection, different types of punches and had no real issue. Find the exit for the pin on the opposite side of the carrier.

Maybe they changed the type of Loctite on the locking screw, used to be the Loctite was stronger than the screw and many had issues with it.

 

[Benthos]

The roll pin is the model you do "not" want to mess with!

Why not?

 

[RCP Phx]

I just find it harder to work with, the bolt is all done from one side vs the pin you have to access both sides of it.

 

[Benthos]

So I would have to take the carrier out? I can't just pound the pin out from the one side with it in place?