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inverted T steering tie rod roll

rockclimber said:
the load of the tie-rod rolling the rod end back and forth fully can wear the races out much quicker than they should.

happened to me.

not as quick as a poly spacer though.
Click to expand...

Then what's your explanation for guys running all heims in inverted T fashion? I don't see them wearing them out any faster than TRE's.

Truth is the only thing a TRE is better at than a heim is more misalignment, otherwise they suck ass.
 
chettacheez said:
Then what's your explanation for guys running all heims in inverted T fashion? I don't see them wearing them out any faster than TRE's.

Truth is the only thing a TRE is better at than a heim is more misalignment, otherwise they suck ass.
Click to expand...
well The tre soaks up a bit more vibes for the guys who street their xj's on a daily basis.
 
chettacheez said:
Then what's your explanation for guys running all heims in inverted T fashion? I don't see them wearing them out any faster than TRE's.

Truth is the only thing a TRE is better at than a heim is more misalignment, otherwise they suck ass.
Click to expand...

You are spreading those forces across more than one Heim, generally they will last longer.

TREs have other benefits, the tapered fit to start, vibration dampening... Etc,

But that is neither here nor there.

The real point is unless you can lessen the angle of the inverted T, or get rid of the design all together, nothing is going to fix this.
 
Buy one of these http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm, move drag link up to crossover bracket, no more tie rod roll or deadspot, and a better steering angle. That's what I did before my front axle swap. I was running the rugged ridge inverted t and it handled like crap. Tried poly spacers, which helped but wore out too fast. The jb4x4 bracket bolted on and the drag link reached just fine. Made a world of difference in how the jeep drove.
 
89eliminator said:
i guess i will stock up on them. they work when the are new, they just wear out quick.

not sure i want to go the heim route. brennen, dont you run a different steering configuration?
Click to expand...


have you thought about having them made in delrin? the delrin should be soft enough to prevent damage to the tre but hard enough to prevent wear over time. I used to go through rubber/poly trackbar bushings once a trip, i had a race shop cut me a delrin replacement.


if you had access to a hobby sized lathe you could knock a few out and just keep them in the jeep. i think the raw delrin stock isnt too expensive. i ran a heim setup on the waggy and got around this by running a big washer from fastenal that was deep enough and wide enough so that it met the body of the heim when tight but didnt touch the ball, so no roll
 
I believe the old waggy d44s had a brass or bronze washer on the passenger side to eliminate that. Haven't seen one in a junkyard, you used to be able buy the part at the dealer years back.
 
Going to bring this back up. Anyone find any better solutions for tie-rod roll with the inverted t set up? I am going to try out the JCR polys, but if there is something better out there now, I'd like to hear about it.
 
i found a good solution, but it is a bit pricey. WJ conversion. :)
 
It seems like the pitman arm joint could be swapped with the driver's knuckle joint, making an inverted Y out of it. This might / might not work or be a good idea but it seems like a good plan to me. Basically... ditch the geometry or flatten your drag link angle.
 
yossarian19 said:
It seems like the pitman arm joint could be swapped with the driver's knuckle joint, making an inverted Y out of it. This might / might not work or be a good idea but it seems like a good plan to me. Basically... ditch the geometry or flatten your drag link angle.
Click to expand...

Never thought of that. Definitely something to look into, thanks for the idea.
 
Not counting wheels, you can do the WJ conversion for around 500 bucks give or take. What do you want, good steering, or dead spot? If you change it to an inverted Y, you still have to change the length of the drag and tie rod.
 
moparmansfield said:
I could buy a DD stock XJ for the same price.. I really wish that swap was cheaper.
Click to expand...

If I had a $1 for every time I heard someone say about an upgrade "I could buy <insert random big thing here> for that price!", I'd have enough to do the WJ swap with all new parts. If you really want it good it is almost never cheap.
 
Thank you for your input guys. Anyone have anyany luck with different material lasting longer?
 
yossarian19 said:
It seems like the pitman arm joint could be swapped with the driver's knuckle joint, making an inverted Y out of it. This might / might not work or be a good idea but it seems like a good plan to me. Basically... ditch the geometry or flatten your drag link angle.
Click to expand...

The TRE with the hole in it does not have enough misalignment to be used on the draglink.
 
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