Correct. Most modern head gaskets are actually imprinted with all the sealer needed, and will say (on the tag or right on the gasket) USE NO SEALER. Anyhow, head gaskets requiring sealer typically come with instructions on what to use and where (I know Fel-Pro gaskets don't require sealant - or retorquing...)
If you get help with this, make sure that they can follow instructions PROMPTLY and AS GIVEN - something I have noted that very few wives are able to do in situations that they don't understand (mine does - and I'm grateful.) Combined weight of the thing will be in the 70-90# range, and it's two feet of metal - so you really need to have "two sets of hands answering one brain."
That isn't to scare you - just the way it is. I feel fortunate in that my wife will follow directions as noted above, and reserve questions for later (that REALLY helps sometimes!) If you have any doubts, it's better for you to put the head on and then install the manifolds.
I also find it useful to have some sort of alignment pin to lower the head onto - I tend to use old pushrods - but the holes are threaded 1/2-13, so you can use allthread rod, and cut out at least two (use them in opposite corners, and make sure you can reach them with your fingers. Install loosely, and remove before you install the bolt holes.)
It's not necessary to use any threadlocker on any bolts - but the driver's side front will want some sort of sealant, since it goes into the water jacket. Use teflon pipe "dope" or paste, NOT teflon tape!
If you note any paint marks on the bolt heads, REPLACE THEM. If you don't, PAINT THEM. If you aren't sure, REPLACE THEM. The head bolts for the AMC242 are designed to be resused precisely ONCE, and they're "torque to yield" otherwise. That's a great way to have a broken bolt to remove later - and it's a pain to remove a broken bolt in a cylinder deck (I haven't found a good way to do it yet...)
5-90