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installed lock-right into '89 xj dana 35 non c clip

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acannell

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hemet
this is just for the record, for what its worth:

installed my lock right locker into my '89 xj with a dana 35 non c clip rear end

took 4-5 hours, i was going very slowly, figuring out things as I went, and referring to the computer and installation manual frequently. i could easily do another one in less than an hour now that I have everything good to go.

the jeep is bone stock, except for slightly larger than stock tires (28"), and of course the locker now :)

here were my steps:

-chocked front tires, put t-case and tranny in neutral, released parking brake
- jacked up rear by frame rails, put stands
- placed oil catch bucket under diff, removed all bolts but top one
- GOOD GOD THE OLD OIL STINKS LIKE HELL, LITERALLY. Makes you want to barf and stays with you ALL day even when you are trying to go to sleep at night.
-removed diff cover
-pushed out pinion shaft retaining roll pin from ring gear side using 8" long piece of 3/16" mild steel rod and 2lb sledge hammer. came out easy. **I DID NOT POP MY ROLL PIN ALL THE WAY OUT, that way it should be easier to push it back in**
-removed pinion shaft, spider gears, and spider gear washers
-removed side gears and side gear thrust washers
-removed passenger rear tire and brake drum
-removed four psngr rear axle bearing retaining plate bolts, and pulled axle shaft out a couple inches
-installed the locker per the manual. not much to note here, except the manual gets kind of confusing when referring to "washers", "spacers", etc...basically its a bit easier if you coat everything with grease so it all sticks together, and put the washer/spacer combo inside each driver before you install each driver
-put the pinion shaft back in (reused mine, which had notches in it)
-carefully pushed the pinion shaft retaining pin back in, using pieces of flat stock wedged between the psnger bearing cap and the pin, until it was in far enough that i could tap it in with a sledge hammer and center punch turned backwards
-cleaned the diff cover and housing flanges with wire brush and brake cleaner
-used "right stuff" rtv becaues i had it laying around
-bolted it all back up
-filled it with 75W-90 per owners manual, and torqued the fill bolt to 25 ft lbs

yay!

BTW, I reused my roll pin. if you want a new one, the part number for a 1989 like mine is S045 5313

drove it around and on the street you can hear it lightly clicking around turns. when you gas it both tires peel out no even if you are pointed straight. i cant wait to try it in the mud and rocks! pretty cool for $150!!
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I wanna do this in my 1999 '35. Seeing as I'm never gonna go above 31" tires on the daily driver, and want to retain ABS, this is a great option for some more traction. Thanks for the post!
 
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Mcantar have you ever broken a Dana 35? Exploded spider gears, snapped axle shafts etc?

:roflmao:

Most recent one happened a month or so ago. Completely stock Jeep, pretty much going up a hill. Spider fragment punched a hold in the diff cover.

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:roflmao:

Most recent one happened a month or so ago. Completely stock Jeep, pretty much going up a hill. Spider fragment punched a hold in the diff cover.

BULLSH*T

If dana 35's were exploding all the time on stock jeeps just "driving up a hill" this forum wouldnt exist and neither would the dana 35.

I inspected the parts coming out of my dana 35, with 183,000 miles, and there was no excessive wear at all. There is *NO WAY* that diff is going to blow up on a stock jeep "going up a hill".
 
BULLSH*T

If dana 35's were exploding all the time on stock jeeps just "driving up a hill" this forum wouldnt exist and neither would the dana 35.

I inspected the parts coming out of my dana 35, with 183,000 miles, and there was no excessive wear at all. There is *NO WAY* that diff is going to blow up on a stock jeep "going up a hill".

Driving up a very steep incline in a lower gear than needed and probably more throttle than should have been applied... but keep in mind this is a completely stock rig. There was tire slippage but no stopping, i.e. no shock loads (hence the shafts are intact), which means that the only thing happening in the diff was the gears were turning, as they're designed to do.
There are plenty of things that shouldn't exist but do. D35s are one of those things. Chevys are another. D35s die all the time in stock and wheeling applications, why do you think we call em turds? I've seen one snap turning a corner in a parking lot (that one was welded though).
 
Just to reiterate my point, here's a quote from one of Kastein's posts in another thread...

I know people who have broken a d35 on: 32s on a gravel road pulling a U-turn, plenty of breaks on 31s, one of my friends locally blew up a d35 on his DD with stock 225s on pavement, and another guy blew one up with 215s on pavement.


And on that note, Acannell, I hereby nominate you.
 
Just to reiterate my point, here's a quote from one of Kastein's posts in another thread...




And on that note, Acannell, I hereby nominate you.

Okay okay sheesh. Its a time bomb. I'll let you all know if and when it breaks. It should be interesting because there really was very little wear on the diff parts, so the circumstances of it breaking will be revealing.

I dont have the time or money to put in another axle, and I'm definitely going 4 wheeling, so i'll have to sacrifice something to the 4x4 gods....
 
They break all the time agreed. But there are also tons of people wheeling with them on 33's, 35's or bigger. Guess it comes down to luck and driving style. I am one of those idiots...

I know its a weak axle and when I either run out of spare parts that were free to me...or someone drops off a 44 or 8.8 I will swap it out.

On another note mine is welded and am yet to break an axle or carrier or pinion or ring gear. But trust me I know I will and that is why I carry spare axles carrier and pinnion with me.
 
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Okay okay sheesh. Its a time bomb. I'll let you all know if and when it breaks. It should be interesting because there really was very little wear on the diff parts, so the circumstances of it breaking will be revealing.

I dont have the time or money to put in another axle, and I'm definitely going 4 wheeling, so i'll have to sacrifice something to the 4x4 gods....

Its cheaper to buy a better axle (29spl 8.25, 8.8, 44, etc) and set it up for an XJ than it is to beef up a 35 as much as it can be beefed up, and the 35 STILL won't be as strong as any of the other axles in stock form.


They break all the time agreed. But there are also tons of people wheeling with them on 33's, 35's or bigger. Guess it comes down to luck and driving style. I am one of those idiots...

I know its a weak axle and when I either run out of spare parts that were free to me...or someone drops off a 44 or 8.8 I will swap it out.

On another note mine is welded and am yet to break an axle or carrier or pinion or ring gear. But trust me I know I will and that is why I carry spare axles carrier and pinnion with me.

Welded D35 on 35" tires without breakage? Now THAT is bullchit.
 
Hell Acannell, come to think of it, that $150 could have easily gotten you a good 8.8 out of an Exploder from your favorite junkyard, plus the steel to make the brackets, plus the 6 pack of brew to barter with somebody in your local chapter to weld the brackets for you if you can't do it.
Now go kick yourself.
 
The non c clips are very slightly stronger so at least you got that going for you.
I ran a one on 33s for about a year with no problems, but I knew it was my weak link and wheeled accordingly.
 
Yup I am lying I am actually running Q78's so there actually closer to a 36". I have never been much of a skinny pedal type wheeling guy, if I can't crawl over it or lightly bump it I am not going to back up and give it a run. Tons of people do it everyday.....ideal no, but doable yes.
 
The non c clips are very slightly stronger so at least you got that going for you.
I ran a one on 33s for about a year with no problems, but I knew it was my weak link and wheeled accordingly.
how the hell are the non c clips any stronger? and for the rcord, i blew up the 35 in my 95 on 235's did some muddin and a few burnouts pinion bearing and spiders went boom
 
Hell Acannell, come to think of it, that $150 could have easily gotten you a good 8.8 out of an Exploder from your favorite junkyard, plus the steel to make the brackets, plus the 6 pack of brew to barter with somebody in your local chapter to weld the brackets for you if you can't do it.
Now go kick yourself.

It took me 6 hours total to research, buy, and install the lock right. How many hours would it have taken to research, locate, buy, and install an axle and everything thats goes along with it?
 
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