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Install Artec Industries Trac Bar Relocation Bracket

themauler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Va Beach
Hello NAXJA,

I thought I would start a thread on the artec industries trac bar relocation bracket as any sort of search on google I could never find an installed picture of it on a real rig.

A little disclaimer I bought this as part of my OTK steering modification. Also I already have a artec industries dana 30 truss welded on. Lastly I am not a full time welder and this is by far not my first time welding but it will be my first time fabricating with my stick welder as my MIG is only a 110v machine.

It comes in two pieces to be welded to the front of the axle tube right next to the passenger coil spring and slides nicely into place of the artec truss. I have already noticed that it sticks out forward of the axle a little bit shorter than the stock trimmed coil spring mounts. I may grind it down a little with a flap disk if the tie rod hits it at full lock.

I will fire up the welder tomorrow to burn it in.







Stay tuned.....
 
Are you afraid your IMG won't be enough? I welded in my 2x6 rockers with one and pulled on them to flip my jeep back over with no I'll effect. Although I do understand your concern
 
Are you afraid your IMG won't be enough? I welded in my 2x6 rockers with one and pulled on them to flip my jeep back over with no I'll effect. Although I do understand your concern

i welded the UBE onto my 9" with a lincoln 110 and flux core. :shiver:

despite my concern... the guy i sold it to said there were no obvious cracks, and they were a bitch to get off. 110 will do the job, but i agree that its not as ideal. i am borrowing a buddies miller for my axle swap now and running 220. my confidence in the welds is much higher.
 
Are you afraid your IMG won't be enough? I welded in my 2x6 rockers with one and pulled on them to flip my jeep back over with no I'll effect. Although I do understand your concern

i welded the UBE onto my 9" with a lincoln 110 and flux core. :shiver:

despite my concern... the guy i sold it to said there were no obvious cracks, and they were a bitch to get off. 110 will do the job, but i agree that its not as ideal. i am borrowing a buddies miller for my axle swap now and running 220. my confidence in the welds is much higher.

I appreciate the confidence boost. One day I will work up to a 220v machine and not have to use crappy flux core wire. I have avoided using my stick machine for a while now but given the thickness of the bracket and the short welds I want to use something I won't have to do two passes to have a decent weld. Going to pick up a box of 6011 or 6013 after work today.
 
Looks like mine before it got burned in. I did the truss, track bar mount, and inner-c gussets all at the same time with the axle out (followed by WJ knuckles etc before putting it back under the Jeep).

I used a Miller 242.
 
Any electrode of 60xx or 70xx will be fine. Personally I would burn in 7018 or 6010/11

I bought both 6013 and 7018 Lincoln electrodes from lowes. I did a few test runs doing horizontal fillet welds and got good results after I dialed in my amps but I don't have enough practice yet doing short welds in a vertical direction. I think I am going to have to pull the MIG out to burn them in better but it was worth a shot.

I found that the 6013 was penetrating to much and was burning through the other side of the 1/4 inch fillet weld I was doing. Should I get 6010/11 for less penetration? I was moving the puddle as fast as I could without spreading it too thin.
 
I just received the Artec track bar bracket and haven't installed it yet. I don't have the Artec truss so my install will be a little different than yours.

And you're right, there is practically NOTHING on Google showing a real Jeep with this installed or install instructions. I may do a write up as my application (no Artec truss) will be a more common configuration.
 
I just received the Artec track bar bracket and haven't installed it yet. I don't have the Artec truss so my install will be a little different than yours.

And you're right, there is practically NOTHING on Google showing a real Jeep with this installed or install instructions. I may do a write up as my application (no Artec truss) will be a more common configuration.

Yeah I was a little worried about it being too big to fit with OTK steering but it will work. Since install I have taken a flap disk to the area where the tie rod bumped into. Being 1/4" thick I had no worried grinding it down a little bit in one spot.

It fits real nice with the artec truss but I would use it for a d30 without a truss any day. Everything about the bracket is great besides the weird hole pattern for the trac bar itself. Seems like they said screw it for consistent hole spacing...
 
Yeah I was a little worried about it being too big to fit with OTK steering but it will work. Since install I have taken a flap disk to the area where the tie rod bumped into. Being 1/4" thick I had no worried grinding it down a little bit in one spot.

It fits real nice with the artec truss but I would use it for a d30 without a truss any day. Everything about the bracket is great besides the weird hole pattern for the trac bar itself. Seems like they said screw it for consistent hole spacing...

Which OTK kit are you running? I've got the IRO kit and have some clearance concerns. I'd also like to hear your opinion on something...

I'm swapping my track bar bracket because my stock bracket is wallowed out. A couple years ago, I drilled the 1/2" hole to a 5/8" and got bigger hardware. It was pretty sturdy for a while but started wallowing out again. I'm sure this 1/4" thick steel will hold better. But my question is:... should I throw my 1/2" hardware back in there or should I upgrade my new bracket to 5/8"?
 
Which OTK kit are you running? I've got the IRO kit and have some clearance concerns. I'd also like to hear your opinion on something...

I'm swapping my track bar bracket because my stock bracket is wallowed out. A couple years ago, I drilled the 1/2" hole to a 5/8" and got bigger hardware. It was pretty sturdy for a while but started wallowing out again. I'm sure this 1/4" thick steel will hold better. But my question is:... should I throw my 1/2" hardware back in there or should I upgrade my new bracket to 5/8"?


I am using the ruffstuff 1ton OTK kit. The 1/4" steel will certainly be strong enough to keep the hole from wallowing. I would use whichever size, 1/2 or 5/8, fits best in your trac bar end and run that.
 
I am using the ruffstuff 1ton OTK kit. The 1/4" steel will certainly be strong enough to keep the hole from wallowing. I would use whichever size, 1/2 or 5/8, fits best in your trac bar end and run that.

Gotcha. I'm replacing my trac bar bushings once the new bracket goes in. The track bar bushing will come as 1/2", and so is the bracket, so I guess I'll just keep it at 1/2" instead of drilling everything out to 5/8".
 
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