injector difference?

[yossarian19]

Valve train turns over normally, no more fuel leakage (verify this. Never assume your "fix" really was a fix), turns over fine with plugs out, kicks with manifolds attached...

Are the plugs in good shape / firing normally? Getting signal correctly? I know you said it seems mechanical but can't hurt to check.

I suppose you *could* have a damaged rod... How about this...
Pull one plug at a time and spin the engine by hand, see what the results are. If it feels notably differnet with #6 missing than with #3, for instance, you'll get a good idea that you have jacked up compression / rotation in #6.

If it were me, I'd want to be *really* sure before I started tearing down the head on a diagnostic mission.

 

[NorCalChris]

Tommorow im going to pull plugs again, and then go from there

 

[Talyn]

Are you sure the distributor is indexed properly?

 

[yossarian19]

if just the manifolds make the difference... well... wtf is that?
thinking
thinking
makes no sense why the manifolds would affect hand cranking / starter cranking unless there continues to be a fueling issue.
I could see a plugged up cat making it run funky, and you probably are dealing with a plugged up cat if it ran rich (leaky injector) but that shouldn't show up without the engine running.
More info?

 

[Talyn]

The cat converter could be blocked. Or the difference could be the engine pulling air thought a closed throttle body. Or just the amount of pipe the engine has to push/pull air through. Try breathing through a straw. Similar scenario.

 

[NorCalChris]

Its open header for now, no need to hook up the exhaust if it MIGHT have to come back apart. Im about to work on it, I wonder if I didnt get all the fuel out of the cylinder? Then even though I swapped injectors, the cylinder could still be hydrolocked. Im gonna pull the plugs and look into all the cylinders. If theres fuel Im gonna turn it over to push it out. but what if theres no fuel in there? Then what? What is the proper torque on the rocker arms? Renix era 4L

 

[Talyn]

Pull the plugs and turn the engine over to clear out any fuel in the cylinders. Proper torque should be around 21 lbs. But even if they aren't properly torques they wouldn't cause the problem you are having.

 

[yossarian19]

Side question, but - could the starter really generate enough torque to bend a rod? It doesn't seem likely to me but hell, maybe... mechanical advantage with the pinion and flex plate and all.
I'm not sure, but I don't think you would have bent a rod while cranking even with a cylinder full of gas. You could do ti by sucking a lot of water into a running engine, sure - but a leaky fuel injector couldn't flow that much gas into a running engine fast enough to do that damage, which leaves it to the starter cranking into the fuel after it sat for a while.
Check the valvetrain again - methinks a valve would get toasted quicker than a con rod in this scenario. You could always pull the oil pan and check with a flash light while you turn the engine by hand, but I still doubt a bent rod.
Yep. I'm rambling. Time to get back to work.

 

[NorCalChris]

There was no fuel in the cylinders.
the more I thought about this, I wondered if the timing chain sliped. Brought it to tdc #1 and the rotor is 90 deg off. I guess its time to pull the pan and timing covers. Maybe when it hydro locked it finally gave way. Again, the dist never came out

 

[gradon]

I just changed my timing set a month or so ago. Advance rents a puller that'll work. Don't use the crank bolt to pull the hb back on--remove bumper and use a brass drift or pipe to whack it on. Maybe re-align the dizzy first and have another try. If you notice that it got off again, then you probably have some chewed up teeth like I did(look in the pic showcase to see mine).

 

[NorCalChris]

I ordered a set, when it gets here I'll do it. I think I remember seeing your pics, variable valve timing right?
Anyway, I'm back to my own projects for now. Im posting a video in the street and performance section here in a little . Muhahahahahah! <----(Evil laugh)

 

[Talyn]

There is enough room between the bumper/header and front of the engine to use the advance puller and installer.

 

[gradon]

I haven't used an installer before

 

[Talyn]

I just don't like the idea of pounding on the thrust bearing.

 

[gradon]

You've got a point(I tend to be a brute at times)--I just know not to use the crank bolt to pull the HB all the way on.

 

[Frédéric CM]

Model Year, ...Part #, ......Colour, .....Fuel Pressure, ...Static Flow,
'87-'90, ........53003956, ...Black, ........39psi, .................18.6lb/hr
'91-'93, ........33007127, ...Brown, .......39psi, .................21.0lb/hr
'94-'95, ........53030343, ...Tan, ...........39psi, .................21.0lb/hr
'96-'99, ........53030778, ...Grey, .........49psi, .................23.2lb/hr
'00-'01, ........04854181, ...Blue tip, .....49psi, .................22.5lb/hr

Does someone have a Blue Tip laying around to put on my '01 ? I don't know why but I've a Grey one on a #1 cylinder...