I searched.. Are there any "kits" for JK axles to go under an XJ?

[clean4drxj]

I to have also read that JK's r&p's are bigger than say regular XJ, TJ and ZJ.

 

[stroked88]

Same gear size different rotation. If you just look at the main shaft it's larger. They aren't called next gen 30s for no reason.

there ya go. seems that would imply that they are different rotation that most xj 30's

 

[wheelinscott]

Check out this build....

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1032532

 

[rockclimber]

I love how you guys started arguing about JK30's in a thread about JK44's..... :facepalm:

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

IIRC, the front JK D44 a D44/D30 hybrid? Seems like a lot of $$$ for something that has some of the weakness of a D30. You could probably find/build a D30 for cheaper.
COil buckets would definitely need to be changed as the JK springs are different than XJ, unless you find a way to use JK springs on the XJ.

The JK axles have very little in common with a D30 or D30/44 hybrid. Example: JK30s can go to 5.13 gears, come stock with 32 spline outer shafts, "New Gen" 1350 axle u-joints, and the pinion shaft is shorter/thicker, resulting in less deflection, there is also more of a curve to the gear cut, allowing more contact surface.

Aside from the 27 spline inner shafts, they are much stronger than a normal D30, toss in a Super30 Kit and I would trust it over a TJ Rubicon LP44, hands down.

No, I am saying that JK 30s are better because the the ring and pinion are larger. Why do you think they sell JK only gears?

http://www.4ws.com/dana-30-5-13-ring-and-pinion-jk-only.html

The ring gear is not any bigger, only the pinion/pinion shaft. Even the JK Rubicon 44s are different, the front HP44 got a similar treatment as the JK30: shorter/thicker pinion shaft, more curve to the gear cut, 32 spline outers, 1350 u-joints, but the same 8.5" ring gear.

The rear JK44 is a different story all together: Thicker pinion shaft, 8.8" ring gear, Rubicons get 32 spline shafts, the housing is huge compared to a standard 44, 3 1/8" tubes

 

[Voteban]

I'm not worried about the strength of the JK Dana 44 axles at all. I see guys run them stock under a JK that weighs a lot more than our XJs on 37s no problem. I plan to run 35s and then maybe 37s some day. I'm not too abusive with the skinny pedal, and I'm planning on trusses front and rear, inner C gussets, and probably 5.13s.

My dad runs 5.38s in his JK4D (Rubi) with 35s and it's just a bit too deep. He does have a 4:1 tcase though...

Does anybody have more info on Ruffstuff's parts for the swap? I couldn't find anything else even close to TnT's as far as a complete "kit" goes.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

I'm not worried about the strength of the JK Dana 44 axles at all. I see guys run them stock under a JK that weighs a lot more than our XJs on 37s no problem. I plan to run 35s and then maybe 37s some day. I'm not too abusive with the skinny pedal, and I'm planning on trusses front and rear, inner C gussets, and probably 5.13s.

My dad runs 5.38s in his JK4D (Rubi) with 35s and it's just a bit too deep. He does have a 4:1 tcase though...

Does anybody have more info on Ruffstuff's parts for the swap? I couldn't find anything else even close to TnT's as far as a complete "kit" goes.

The biggest thing I can recommend, since you are going to pretty much make your own track bar and drag link, make your own track bar mount and do it like the guys building the /Petty Cash KOH Jeep did:

Since the drag link goes clear to the passenger side steering knuckle on the JKs, and you want the drag link and track bar to be as close as possible to the same length and parallel to each other, you are going to be hard pressed to find a better placement for your track bar.

 

[Voteban]

The biggest thing I can recommend, since you are going to pretty much make your own track bar and drag link, make your own track bar mount and do it like the guys building the /Petty Cash KOH Jeep did:

Since the drag link goes clear to the passenger side steering knuckle on the JKs, and you want the drag link and track bar to be as close as possible to the same length and parallel to each other, you are going to be hard pressed to find a better placement for your track bar.

The Rock Yacht seems to work pretty dang well, I think I'm going to shoot for a similar track bar setup. I think that's the OTK Track-bar mount, I guess I'll shoot TnT a PM and ask.

It sucks that this is all in theory for now, I need some cash and some JK axles, then the fun will begin!

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

The Rock Yacht seems to work pretty dang well, I think I'm going to shoot for a similar track bar setup. I think that's the OTK Track-bar mount, I guess I'll shoot TnT a PM and ask.

It sucks that this is all in theory for now, I need some cash and some JK axles, then the fun will begin!

I'm telling you this because my buddy has TNT's "kit" on his Jeep, correction... Had, he's got it in pieces right now redoing everything. The trackbar and drag link TNT made him had probably about 6" or more of difference in length, giving the front end very funky driving characteristics.

 

[Porch951]

The recurring concern i hear is that the JK has the same outer C's as the d30. These are the same C's that people have to truss before they do any jumping. Fine for 35's, maybe 37's, sure. But if i was spending that kind of cash, i think i'd rather go find a real D44.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

I'm telling you this because my buddy has TNT's "kit" on his Jeep, correction... Had, he's got it in pieces right now redoing everything. The trackbar and drag link TNT made him had probably about 6" or more of difference in length, giving the front end very funky driving characteristics.

ive talked to a few people with the TNT truss. from what ive gathered, the most of them wish that they had added their own links. its a fine truss, but not great as an all inclusive kit.

 

[EricsXJ]

The recurring concern i hear is that the JK has the same outer C's as the d30. These are the same C's that people have to truss before they do any jumping. Fine for 35's, maybe 37's, sure. But if i was spending that kind of cash, i think i'd rather go find a real D44.

To my knowledge the "inner" C's are not the same as regular 30's (they take a different ball joint) but yes you are correct that they need gussets. that is one of the weaknesses of the JK44 front axle. I think its debateable as to the strength of the JK axles vs traditional or "real 44's" as you put it. The housing and C's have issues which can be addressed, but the shafts, u-joints, and pinion are all stronger than a "real" 44.

The thing I don't like about the JK44 front axle other than housing issues is the steering. You can't do a high steer and the best you can do currently is a few inches higher with Reid Racing knuckles.

To the OP, I don't know if you can find any of the Rubicon axles for a decent price considering the factory lockers are in high demand and the factory replacements for these have prices shooting through the roof. If you aquire an axle with the factory locker you may be able to sell the locker at over $1000 each. That gives you the option of running ARB's in them with 35-spline shafts (front is 35 spline inners only). I have a rear JK44 that I am setting up to run ARB and 35-spline shafts. I won't use a JK front however due to the issues raised above.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

To my knowledge the "inner" C's are not the same as regular 30's (they take a different ball joint) but yes you are correct that they need gussets. that is one of the weaknesses of the JK44 front axle. I think its debateable as to the strength of the JK axles vs traditional or "real 44's" as you put it. The housing and C's have issues which can be addressed, but the shafts, u-joints, and pinion are all stronger than a "real" 44.

The thing I don't like about the JK44 front axle other than housing issues is the steering. You can't do a high steer and the best you can do currently is a few inches higher with Reid Racing knuckles.

To the OP, I don't know if you can find any of the Rubicon axles for a decent price considering the factory lockers are in high demand and the factory replacements for these have prices shooting through the roof. If you aquire an axle with the factory locker you may be able to sell the locker at over $1000 each. That gives you the option of running ARB's in them with 35-spline shafts (front is 35 spline inners only). I have a rear JK44 that I am setting up to run ARB and 35-spline shafts. I won't use a JK front however due to the issues raised above.

I have to agree with you on the front axle, I would love to build a ProRock44 with 60 outers, but at that cost you could build a 60 or even a 609 and have a substantially stronger axle.

 

[Voteban]

I've heard tales of people getting JK axles from totaled Rubi's for a few hundred each... Apparently you just hit up tow truck places... I'm not sure how that would work.