I know what you did last winter, spring, summer and early fall.

[Lincoln]

Re: I know what you did last winter.

Fixed it the title for you.

I don't see the problem with Allen heads, they seem plenty stout for sitting in the garage, and I haven't had trouble removing them yet!

Maybe I should have gone tamper-proof Torx?

Much better tittle.

The tamper-proof Torx work ok but I prefer these. No hex head, allen, or torx to mess up.

If you are going to have to use vise grips, weld, grind, curse, or any cobination of the above to get them out you might as well start that way.

 

[5-90]

Lincoln - those aren't plow bolts, are they?

5-90

 

[Lincoln]

Lincoln - those aren't plow bolts, are they?

5-90

 

[5-90]

Thought so. I bet you're wondering how I knew that...

5-90

 

[Lincoln]

Thought so. I bet you're wondering how I knew that...

5-90

I thought everyone knows about plow bolts. I'm guessing you weren't always a Socal numbnuts.

 

[5-90]

I've never been a SoCal "numbnuts," and the fact of being Sierra Chapter (NorCal) is a "temporary inconvenience." I'm just displaced.

I don't think anyone out here knows about plow bolts - unless they're also "displaced," or have occasion to use and repair plows fairly regularly...

5-90

 

[LBEXJ]

... I don't think anyone out here knows about plow bolts - unless they're also "displaced," or have occasion to use and repair plows fairly regularly...

5-90

Shoot ... I install new cutters every year to my front bumper using them.

Doesn't everybody?

Les

 

[Lincoln]

I've never been a SoCal "numbnuts," and the fact of being Sierra Chapter (NorCal) is a "temporary inconvenience." I'm just displaced.

I don't think anyone out here knows about plow bolts - unless they're also "displaced," or have occasion to use and repair plows fairly regularly...

5-90

I need to start looking at peoples locations.

Farmerboy better know about plow bolts or I've lost all faith in him.

Les even knows what they are.

 

[Mike L]

I need to start looking at peoples locations.

Farmerboy better know about plow bolts or I've lost all faith in him.

Les even knows what they are.

Only 10 more posts to go....................... :shocked:

-Mike

 

[CRASH]

I wonder about the upper link.
What is the attatchment point to the axle?

Here is a front shot of the set-up.

Here is the axle mount (this is Jes's, mine is nearly identical.)

Did you weld-in or bolt to the cover attatchment points?

No, never broken what I run.

Have you ever worried about twisting the passenger side axle tube?

How would that happen? There is no twisting force what-so-ever on the passenger side axle tube. That's the beauty of a 3 link.

It seems like with Hydraulic steering you could over torque the passenger side tire and cause some serious damage.

I don't understand this at all.....what do you mean by "over torque"?

Any problems in the past?

None at all, it is the best handling, most predictable suspension I've ever built, and this is my 5th one.

What type of wheeling do you do?

The hardest of the hard rock trails, fast desert runs, and then a lot of the milder type of trails like the Rubicon, etc.

CRASH

 

[Brian Carpenter]

Here is a front shot of the set-up.

Here is the axle mount (this is Jes's, mine is nearly identical.)

How would that happen? There is no twisting force what-so-ever on the passenger side axle tube. That's the beauty of a 3 link.


I don't understand this at all.....what do you mean by "over torque"?

CRASH

:anon: In my own defense.. I would worry about brakeing hard from speed and the passenger side wanting to twist forward with the wheel. Without the upper on that side there is little except the torsional resistance of the axle tube itself to stop it.. right? Until these pics, it wasn't clear that you were not using a D-30.

 

[CRASH]

would worry about brakeing hard from speed and the passenger side wanting to twist forward with the wheel. Without the upper on that side there is little except the torsional resistance of the axle tube itself to stop it.. right?

No, incorrect. Picture this scenario:

You hit a rock, at speed, on your passenger side. The load attempts to compress the member on the pass. side, but it tries to extend the UCA on the driver's side. In other words, you don't need two UCA's, all they do is control torque, while the LCA's control fore and aft axle movement.

Does this make sense? I want to try and explain this as best I can, since this question is fairly common.

 

[SeanP]

:anon: In my own defense.. I would worry about brakeing hard from speed and the passenger side wanting to twist forward with the wheel. Without the upper on that side there is little except the torsional resistance of the axle tube itself to stop it.. right? Until these pics, it wasn't clear that you were not using a D-30.

Methinks Master Brian has never retubed a pumkin or rotated his knuckles. It takes a massive amount of force to remove a tube from the pumkin, even after drilling out the rosettes. Ask Billy how many swings of the 3 pound sledge it takes to rotate a knuckle 12* after you have the weld all the way off the inner C so you can see the thin hairline crack all around. Contrast this force to the contact patch of a tire on even the stickiest asphalt. You will always lose traction before you even get to 1-3% (my WAG) of the twisting force needed to spin an axle tube under hard braking.

Nice job andy. Where do you find the time?

SeanP

 

[hadfield4wd]

Crash,

Where did you get the bracket for the hydro assist on the tie rod?

Matt

 

[CRASH]

Crash,

Where did you get the bracket for the hydro assist on the tie rod?

Matt

A MIG, 1.5" tube, and some 3/4"x.375 strap.

 

[Weasel]

I think he's worried that instead of two links take the rotational forces now there is one one. And with it being on one side, the force on the one link will be more since it has the extra length of the axle as well, etc. Doesn't seem to be a problem since Crash's links are holding up fine.

 

[cracker]

A MIG, 1.5" tube, and some 3/4"x.375 strap.

Andy,

If one didn't have the fabrication skills, do you know where one may purchase something like this?

Thanks

Avery

 

[Weasel]

I seem to remeber seeing a similar clamp to that somewhere...can't remember where though.

 

[HillbillyXJ]

Crash, Jes, and others,
I know you'll flame me but, do you have any drawings or dimensions of the URF cross member and upper link bracket highths along with lca bracket dimensions and angles?
Could a newb use a TnT belly pan and fab my upper link bracket which would give me the clearence and protection? Looked at several pics and looks like a UCA bracket would fit right where it needs to be. I can burn rod, but not sure if my welding skills are what they should be (I've welded frames to support wall mounted transformers and such). Don't know if fab skills are at that level. Just a stupid Inside Wireman/Constrution worker.
How close to parallel do the upper and lower arms need to be? Within a 1/4" to 1/2" or what tolerance is allowable?
I'll stop with the questions... feel like a dumb cub that's really wantin' to learn! :roll:

 

[What Rd]

Hey CRASH -
Truly sweet. Forget the shipping, I'll deliver my rig to you!
What's the mount on the trailing edge of the rear crossmember for? A traction bar?
Have you had it out of the garage yet? I'm curious about what the reduction in length on your control arms did to the feel/handling of your setup.