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How To: The mildest fender chop you've ever seen.

Really? I can't tell at all. No offense to OP but I can only see a car washing difference in the before and after pics.

what're you high? :greensmok

DanMan... what a luxurious bay lexus has built for ya'll... do u get docked for spilling fluids? :shhh:

photo-29.jpg


looks great (other than brakes lookin dinky inside those 17's, haha)... definitely noticeable... you used fixed lowers/adj uppers? run into any other issues, steering/track bar/end links clearances??

bet it rides like a dream now
 
do u get docked for spilling fluids?

Hah, funny. Cuz we DO. We have a "contigincy" bonus every paycheck. The uppers will take it away for whatever they please- dirty bay, a comeback, not clocking in or out (insurance reasons), or just general negligence. They're usually pretty chill about it, but it has happened.

Yes, it rides like butter. I love it. that said, the steering absolutely sucks now. It hunts and wanders all over the road. The caster is probably effed. Adjustables definitely got bumped higher in the priority list. I think I said earlier it's got fixed RE lowers and stock uppers
 
WOOOW, corporate shenanigans... :bs:...cant let the customers see their lexus being worked on in a "dirty" environment... :nono:

i previously misunderstood... thought you were getting adjustables to install the drop brackets, but just went back a page & re-read... you're CA set up is the same as mine, RE fixed lowers/stock uppers... good to hear that set up "works", with drop brackets, & just needs a fine tuning with adj uppers
 
I did this last year. I was going to do a write up but got too lazy.. Thanks DanMan!! Just that little bit of trimming made that much difference. Did you do the rears yet? Did mine but didnt cut the quarters. Theres something about the pinch welds that scare me

I used to work for McGrath Acura/Lexus and my truck was only allowed in the shop after work or when I was towing in a no start. LOL
 
No I havent done the rears yet. I'm going to bumpstop it and wheel with it Like that once, to see just how handicapped it really is. If its not too bad I may just leave it. Otherwise they'll get the axe (more like butter knife) too. And yes, I do all my work after hours. Unless there is a TOTAL emergency the managers don't even want to see your bucket in the shop. Luckily they all leave at 5 ;)
 
Gotta be nice havin a shop and lift at your disposal, (i'm jealous.)
Hey BTW... looks like you never did the trim around the cut of the flares like you were talking about, unless its just not showing up in the pics.... you got a few close ups of that door trim install around the cut edge like you were talking about?
Also... how are you liking the shackle relocation brackets? (i'm pretty much set on getting a pair of those,) You had 'em off road yet?
 
I did put some trim on from advance auto, but took it off necause it looked too cheesy and the glue was a joke. I'm waiting on some nice trim-lok edging from mcmaster-carr.

The shackle relocators are simply amazing. Great offroad, and just as good on road. They allow the leafs to flex a lot more than before.
 
Can you post up the McMaster-Carr p/n?
Be sure to post up some pics of how that stuff goes on and how you like it.
Oh...almost forgot.... any tips/tricks/things to watch out for when installing those shackle relocation brackets?
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#24175K43 is the part number. You want the vinyl edge trim, dual gripping edge in 5/32" if the link doesn't show up. The part MC supplies is actually made by Trim-Lok, which seems to be the pinnacle for edge trim.

As for the shackle relocators - it's actually very straightforward. If you have a hitch, take it off in advance, or be prepared to take it off for installation. Your bumper must also come off, which I found to be the biggest pain in the ass over everything else. This might not be totally necessary? But I found it made the entire job a TON smoother. After everything is put together, it takes a little while to figure out what setting (mounting holes) to use for the shackles themselves. I had to adjust them 3 times before I found the perfect combination of shackle length/lift height/angle. The nutstrip on the passenger side must be removed if you want to put some better mounts inside the frame rail. I used 3, 1/2" grade 8 bolts with washers and dropped them through the holes after taking out the nutstrip. These brackets really do make a world of diffenence.

Total install time was about 3.5 hours, over the span of 3 nights. First night I took off the bumper and drilled out the rivets for the nutstrip, second night I installed the actual brackets, third night I put the finishing adjustments on the shackles and put the bumper and ends back on.

The RC control arm drop brackets took about the same time, in one night, and had exponentially more cussing, tire kicking, and headache asprin involved.
 
Hey thanks for the advice, I've got the JCR nut-strips, a gas tank skid AND a tow hitch.... So there's a lot going on up in there. I imagine its going to be bitch getting all that to line back up after I tackle this. I've got a *mock* jcr stage II rear bumper, that I hopefully wont have to take off, and some customized (modified) oem end caps just for aesthetics that are easily removed, so hopefully I'll have enough room to work in there. I'm thinkin' of picking these relocation brackets up with some much needed tax return money - (I'm hoping uncle sam is going to be kind this year.)
 
Oh very nice since you have the nutstrips you won't have to take off the bumper. I only had to so I could feed the bolts into the frame to and let them drop into the holes. It will be a little more hassle since you have a hitch and skid tied into the rear, but honestly the hardest part of my install was taking off the rear bumper.
 
Ordered that trim today from Mcmaster(30 ft)- I read you need around 27 to 30 feet for either sheetmetal or the fenders.. In case anyone was wondering.
 
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