How important is an e-brake? (rear disc swap)

[tchase]

One of the best parking brakes is a line lock. Just mash the brakes and flip the switch and it won't go anywhere. Look up part # SBR-LL on summit racing's website. For $40 and a couple of adapters and a switch, you can't beat it and a mechanical E-brake won't even touch this especially with larger than factory tires.

I strongly disagree. I've had the fortune of experiencing a loss of hydraulic pressure on a steep hill while wheeling with no mechanical e-brake to fall back on. Not Fun. LIne locks still rely on you having a functioning hydraulic system. I've also snapped a rear pinion on my 2wd MJ on a steep hill on the street, had to rely on the passenger holding the vehicle with the hydraulic brakes while I crawled under to remove the shaft so I could back down the hill. They are called emergency brakes for a reason and I think all vehicles should be equipped with some means of stopping/holding the vehicle which is seperate from both the drivetrain and the hydraulic brakes (ie wheel mounted stock type parking brake).
just my $0.02 worth.
Tony

 

[lapisxj]

Yea, you just splice into either the front or rear main lines (or both), you will probably need some fittings and adapters but they are cheap at the auto store. I agree with needing an "e-brake" but my experience with cable brakes and bigger tires is they just don't cut it.

 

[RichP]

well, it may not stop you completely but it's better then nothing and may slow you down enough to do a lot less damage...

 

[sidriptide]

even though they are commonly refferd to as an E-brake they are really intended for use as a PARKING BRAKE... although i plan to go with a line-lock in my new rig, that is not an acceptable replacement for a mechanical brake... maybe the hand brake won't stop you very well doing 60 mph but it will slow you down.. and will hold you, if it is adjusted properly, on an incline if you need to get out.... so "big tires" has no bearing at all in this matter.... it is a second, totally independant system that is a saftey REQUIRMENT.... yeah its a pain in the a$$ to rig up on your rear disks but it should be part of your complete system... like running 35s with 3.55s... lots do it and have all kinds of good stuff to say about it.... but its still not a well-thought-out system modification....

 

[FarmerMatt]

A line lock does you no good as an e-brake. An e-brake needs to be a seperate system from your hydraulic system.

Matt

 

[old_man]

Maybe I'm paranoid but I check the adjustment of my e-brake before every run. I've had too many close calls due to failures to take a chance. The calipers I got for the D44 I have in the rear have the cable e-brake setup. The mini drum type e-brakes common on the Ford Explorer rear axles are worthless. They don't have enough stopping power to help.

Like the man said, no e-brake means no run on a sanctioned event. Most inspectors wouldn't catch it but you never know.

 

[OT]

Maybe I can rig up something that drops a stray rock in front of my tire using the useless e-brake mechanism.

This is the best method I've seen.

 

[ChiXJeff]

I've resisted weighing in on this thread.... but I won't move without an e-brake.

Couple of additional thoughts. Like FarmerMatt says, a line lock does you no good as an e-brake because you're still depending on the lines, cylinders, shoes, etc. of the primary system to still be functional. An e-brake needs to be a separate system. Okay, I'll admit, the shoes and drums are still common, but I think we see more cylinder and line failures than anything else. Likewise, a brake mounted on the t-case output or pinion still depends on the rest of the driveline remaining intact.

I'll stick with a traditional style of e-brake, I think.

 

[BrettM]

Likewise, a brake mounted on the t-case output or pinion still depends on the rest of the driveline remaining intact.

i don't understand this logic at all, it's still a secondary system. a normal e-brake still relies on the cables and other parts to remain intact... so what?! if you have a t-case brake and burst a hydraulic line you will still be able to stop, if you brake a hydro line and both driveshafts (assuming 4wd) you're screwed as well, but common now, what are the rediculous odds of that?! I guess you better not ever drive anywhere, you might die.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

I dont know about the Jeep Master cylinder, but the E350 cylinder Im running has seprate chambers for the front and rear brakes, I just did another rear end swap with disks, I test drove the jeep with only front brakes and it stopped alot better then the stock e-brake on the old d35...

If you cut a brake line you will still have rear or front brakes. A line lock would be great for my trail rig's parking brake:

I would get one for the front and rear, and when in 4wd Id put it in gear.
Front and rear diffs spooled, Tcase with no diff, and two line lock systems, that sounds like a very safe parking brake...

The T-case disk brake, My wheelin buddy made one for his toyota, using a small motorcytle rotor and caliper, and used the hydraulic handle and mounted it in the cab. the handle had a lock on it. This home made home drilled rotor was so out of balance he could only go like 45mph. Now it sits on a shelf as a future project. I dont have any pics.

The Drive shaft E-brake is kinda sketchy if you dont have a rear spool. If one tire is up in the air and the drive shaft is locked your tires will roll...

I think the best would be line locks front and rear for "parking brakes" and a t-case E-brake for emergency use or extra parking brake.

If you have ARBs it would be nice to run 4 line locks for cutting brakes, but I have spools so that is useless.

 

[MJ_Chubs]

Since a total loss of the brake hydraulic system is unlikely, would a good solution be a line lock for each wheel? More than likely you're going to lose one or two wheels, at most.

I'm thinking that I may do what Ashman suggested with 2 line locks for "parking" and then set up a manual brake for the emergency situations.

 

[Michael McAtee]

most commenly you can only us a line lock for the front and or the back..

 

[4xBob]

On my 1990 XJ I tore off a front brake line (using tire chains). Even though there are two brake line circuits, I lost ALL braking....still haven't figured that out. I used my parking brake to stop the jeep. It's nothing like real hydraulic brakes, but it works. I won't drive without a functioning parking brake.

 

[JLane99XJ]

i'm soon to be checkin w/ a local parts store that reportedly has a manual twist vavle Line Lock for about $30.00

all u do is cut a small section (2" or so) out of the rear hydraulic line re-flare each side of the cut add on 2 90degree fittings plumb into the cab to lines from the 90degree fittings attach one line to each side of the twist valve Line Lock, secured into your console or whereever you like,
then bleed the brakes and you're done..
apply the brakes then twist the 90degree turn handle and the brakes are locked as tight as your foot was on the pedal, until you open the valve by turning the handle back..

i think i'll mount mine inside the armrest console box.

drill a hole through the floor just inside the driverside frame rail, above the rear brake supply line,
run lines from there under the drivers seat along the floor up to the console box,
that way if the valve ever starts to leak the spillage can be contained inside the little box and easily noticed and cleaned up..

a rubber grommet to incase the lines where it passes through the floor pan will be a must to keep them from wearing a hole and to keep muddy water out of the cab..