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Homebrew 3103-27CV SYE Details

Hylander said:
Just jack the Rig up under the Axles as high as you can.
Next place jack stands under the body and then lower the jacks under the Axles so the body rest on the jack stands, stretching the suspension.
Click to expand...

Durrr. Ok nevermind. I can do it if I take the tires off. :doh:

~Scott
 
If you do it with the tires off, remember that the axle will droop a bit more with the tires on due to their weight.
 
My 3103 Yoke came in on Friday. Got it installed on Sat. I'm opting to get a new DS built here in Phoenix. Phoenix Rack and Axle will build one with beefy joints/greasable for 235 new. I don't mind paying for a new DS...peace of mind I guess.

I'm an idiot or something but how do you measure 1.65 on a tape? I was tryng to figure out you measurements and mine were not the same. I spent better part of 45 minutes re-measuring all my stuff and then cut. The old saying of measure twice cut one.

The old boot slipped back on too. Was tight but I got it on. Can't wait to get the DS. Thanks again for the post.
 
Here is the picture I said I would post of my installation.

IMG_2109.JPG
 
I have a pre 96' 242 and I am gathering parts for this install, and I am having a very hard time finding the proper yoke. My local driveline shop has something similar in stock and I was wondering if it would also work.
It's a GM end yoke so it would already have the hole for the bolt, and it takes the 1310 u-joint with a bolt and strap. There really isn't much difference between this and the other yoke, spline count is the same and spline diameter is smaller by 0.004. It is shorter than a slip yoke so it wouldn't need to be cut down. The outside diameter is 1.688 vs the 1.5 on the slip yoke, I wouldn't care about finding a seal for this.
My main question is that would I be able to use a regular slip drive shaft without the double cardon style joint?
 
Seems like a couple of you guys have very little compression in the slip yokes, aren't you worried about it hammering together while going over fast bumps?
 
Beezle said:
Seems like a couple of you guys have very little compression in the slip yokes, aren't you worried about it hammering together while going over fast bumps?
Click to expand...

So far I haven't seen anyone having an issue.
However I didn't get the Warm & Fuzzy's so I have mine cut .75"
Now I'm not thinking about it every other bump.
 
how big of a lift could you use this setup for?
 
i have a 94 xj. 4.0, ax-15, np231, 8.25

will this setup work on mine? what would i have to purchase to make it work? i already have a front xj driveshaft. sorry if these questions have already been answered. im just wanting to make sure i dont screw it up.
also, would this work on a 4.5" lift?

thanks
 
FYI rough country long arm kit drops the T case down about 1" maybe a little more. So you will have to shorten the shaft as I just found out.
 
I needed some clarification....

Getting ready for this mod but needed some additional info. Is it best to drill a hole in the cap the comes with the yoke? Or remove the cap and install a washer?

What bolt size most you guys have been using. 3/8" or 1/2"?

I went to Ace Hareware and here's what they had.

-Metric washer M20 fit the perfect but was center was too big for a 3/8" bolt.

-3/8" x 1.5" fender washer on top of that.

-3/8" lock washer.

I think that using these 3 items stacked together will make the 3/8" x 1" bolt too short.

If your using a 3/8" bolt, what size fender washer did you use? We couldn't find any the will fit in the store.

BTW, only the bolt and lock washer were grade 8, not sure if that will be a problem.

Thanks...
 
Thanks to the OP, I just did the hack and tap tonight. Tomorrow I'm getting the bolt and washer and putting it together and shimming the axle. Great write up!
 
Another successfull installation for less than $150. I have a 98XJ with 5.5" of lift and this worked well for me. Thanks for the write up.
Photo076-1.jpg
 
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